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That's why I mentioned amps in my reply to the post. I'm sure it was just an oversight and as you stated - politeness outweighed nitpickyness (which is so out of character for me......)
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
Of course, my experience is small, and yours is great. I spent only a few years working at Air Products specialty gas facility in Hometown, PA....... Over the years, we had a few hydrogen fires, with some interesting protocols. Since I was a contract employee (non-union), I was considered more "disposable" and hence was used as a detector (with broom) to determine the parameters of the fire. You are correct in that Hydrogen fires tend to occur up high, and it is interesting to note that they usually are invisible to the eye.
That being the case, however, I will say that in the many hydrogen fires we had, as an "accepted" risk of production, we never had a hydrogen explosion.
Of course a hood would not remove 100% of the gas, I never suggested that it would, but it should take care of the bulk of it. Removing as much Hydrogen as possible from the building is something that is both reasonable, and practical. Things like gable vents should remove the rest, and sensible precautions like turning off the power source to the charger before moving clamps (hence no sparks) would also be wise..........
I'm not advocating that this should be done.......merely stating that with a few reasonable and inexpensive precautions, and a goodly dose of common sense, it could be done with a reasonable amount of safety.....
Of course, if your experience greatly contradicts my own, since as I said, mine is small, no doubt.....please disagree, and I won't be upset or offended in the least.....
I don't have a conversion formula to determine the amount of H2 that will be generaten, but assure you yhat it would be enough. George's statement that the leakage would likely take care of the problem may well be right assuming you work in a normal pole barn. My experience was with a well sealed roof that required four 4 foot vent fans over a span of 350 feet. These fans were required by the insurance company and OHSA. The bulk of the H2 produced in the US is from the Niagra Falls area because of available electricity, which is the method used to produce H2.
We were buying liquid H2 by the truck load. You would be amazed by the safety precauions necessary to transport and unload the liquid. Just be careful.
Larry et al...
We bought Hydrogen at APCI, as a refrigerated liquid as well, stored it in massive tanks, which required vaporization through large devices like radiators to warm it back up to a gaseous state...
The purpose of the substance was to create Hydrogen Fluoride, (HF), a gas that is used in electronics etching, as I understand. (HF), when it meets water, is about the strongest acid I can think of, and typical injuries involved burns that might eat away the bone in an entire finger....A special alkyd burn cream was developed for treating HF burns.
Making HF is a simple enough process.... Hydrogen likes to burn, in the presence of an oxidizer, and Fluorine is the world's best oxidizer..... The trick is not to have an excess of either one in the reaction chambre, or unpleasant circumstances arise. Too much Fluorine, and you get HF3, which is also a useful product, but not what you're aiming for....... Too much Hydrogen, and the Chambre overheats, and you end up with an external, invisible hydrogen fire. None of the people who operate this equipment are trained in chemistry, or have any idea of what actually is going on..... They are union employees, who make a great deal of money, and do only what they are required. When things go wrong, they leave, and push an alarm button.....Supervisors, managers, and contract safety and emergency people deal with the problems...... That's what I used to do......in addition to various sundry other things.......
Rudi, last time I tried my small (1 gallon) tank just for fun the water got warm. Couldnt you insulate your tank and use it outside? Spose you would have to be able to move it into a heated area between runs though.
Nik - 1948 Farmall Cub
I leave mine going year-round. I have found that as long as there is
liquid water in and around the anode and part being cleaned it works fine.
I have had to break through 6-8 inches of ice to get the part out. Just
thought I would throw in my $.02 worth.
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