Loading Cub tires

[99roushford]

Hi guy's, I have been on the other forum about Loading my "H" tires. I had two uncles who were IH mechanic from the late 40 to the 70. they both said that IH did not recommend loading CUB tires. I have stated before my H and CUB are working tractors and the only problem I have ever had is traction with he CUB never not enough power. I have rear and front wheel weighs. what is you take on this load or not.
Moe

[Bigdog]

Moe - If your tractors are workers and you need the weight then I'd do it. For a lot of us who just play with our cubs the extra weight is a deterrant.

[Eugene]

Just my take. I have front and rear weights on my Cub. When I need more weight and power, I use one of my larger tractors.

Eugene

[George Willer]

Some of us have double sets of weights on some of our play tractors. I've been removing the calcium from the others whenever I can. Of the 24 tractors here there are only three that still have it. I'm afraid I'm too late removing it from the Ford 641.

[rkd]

For us tractor newbies, what is "loading the tires?"

[Bigdog]

Filling them with a calcium chloride or anti-freeze solution to add weight to the rear wheels. It improves traction.

[Jackman]

I have a 57 lo boy no weights and nothing but air in the tires seems to work just fine for me, but I also have a new to 51 F Cub with wheel weights all arounnd and loaded tires and I sure do notice the differance between weight and no weights, I like the nonweighted Cub better. The 51 with the loaded tires has some rust at the valve stems thats probley from the calcium but since the tires never loose air pressure I don't understand what makes them rust .... Maybe they recomend not loading Cubs because the calcium will rust the rims.........

[Jim Becker]

My '47 and '49 Owner's Manuals both address how to load the tires in considerable detail. The '73 Manual for the 154 simply says "When very heavy weight is required, both liquid and cast iron weights can be used."

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

cub instruction manuals for loading tires are found on pages 48 and 49 of the early manuals, including the one for 1950 on Rudi's server

[gitractorman]

Jackman,
I had the same situation on my cub, starting to rust around the valve stems, but not loosing air. When I split the tires from the rims, I found liquid between the tire and the tube. Turns out that the tube was punctured or worn through, but the tire was sealed to the rim good enough to prevent it from loosing air. That rim was in considerably worse shape than the other, which only had liquid inside the tube.

My Cub is one of the higher hp models because it is a 1977, and with the tires loaded and weights all around, I was still able to break the back tires loose when grading dirt (ok, the dirt was packed up under the oil pan, and rolling over the top of the blade). I did however notice that if the grader blad hooked onto a tree root or stump, the tires would dig in and lift the front of the tractor off of the ground quicker than you could blink. Now that the tires are not loaded and I'm only running weights, the tires are more likely to break loose quicker than lifting the front of the tractor off the ground. I like this setup better because, as we all know, it is not good to lift the front of a cub, as it leads to bad bad things.

My vote, run a set or two of rear weights. If you need more weight, get a bigger tractor, or cut back your load.

[Jim Becker]

Reminds me of a story from years ago. A neighbor had a Farmall M which had experienced multiple transmission problems. I don't remember ever seeing that tractor without a tandem hitch of tillage equipment behind it. One day the neighbor was discussing the problem with my father. The neighbor said that maybe he should try taking some of the liquid out of the tires and let them slip a little. My father replied with "did you ever consider taking some of the load off of it?"

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Brings to mind when i was in a local machine shop, and the owner was working on a pto drive line for a bush hot that had been twisted off. I asked him what had happened and he said the guy had a light duty brush hog on a large Ford diesel and kept tearing it out. guy complained that was the 3rd tiem he had to get it repaired and was unhappy. shop owner replied "If you would take it easier you wouldn't tear ti up so much". customer replied "I can't get nothin done if I go slower" shop owner replied "You ain't gettin much done while you're waiting for me to fix it either or you."

[Ron Luebke]

i thought i heard antifreeze would not rust as bad as the calcium.key words (as bad)

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

yup, calcium is a slat type product, where antifreeze is water based. antifreeze does have rust inhibtors in it, but not sure how long they last in a tire though.

[400lbsonacubseatspring]

Calcium Chloride is "Qwik-Joe" ice melt..... Calcium based salt..... it's very heavy, and is relatively harmless to soil and critters if it leaks out..... It does promote rust just as much as road salt, however, and usually, small amounts leak out of the tube from time to time and eventually make their way to the stem hole.

Antifreeze is much lighter, and is environmentally unsound, should you get a puncture.......... it does not promote rust, however.....a lot of guys here save their old antifreeze, and strain it before filling their tires with it.

I agree with George, however, and think that if you need more rear weight, you should go with a second set of rear weights....

Any tractor I'm on doesn't really have that problem however, but for folks who are Ralph's size, I can see where it can become an issue.....