Tap & Die Sizes

[Boss Hog]

I said I want gona get back on this but the only thing worst than a cheap battery box is a cheap tool You will bust knuckles, mess up bolts, screwheads, and make you cuss like a sailor.
David

[Alan Riley]

Jon - I'm glad you are having luck with them. I have yet to buy anything from Cummins that was worth bringing home.

I bought a 750# engine stand from Cummins a few years ago specifically to use with a Cub engine. Upon opening the box after getting home, I found that the front caster was welded on at a weird angle...I had to cut it off and reweld it. By the time I replaced all the cheap Chinese bolts and repainted it, I had enough labor and material costs in it to have bought a good one to start with. It's funny...now that Harbor Freight has a local store, neither Cummings nor Homier come to town any more.

[Mag Man]

I have been in the industry long enough to be able to pick out something that will work and something that you will throw away after a 1/2 use. I dont buy much from them. But With working on Mags and carbs and such that $39.00 set was just the cats meow for me. And I have had it over a year and yet to break one but being in the bussiness so long I also usally know when to not make that final 1/4 turn that will break them also.
I buy a lot of stuff from harbor freight good price and I always get the $10.00 or under waranty and return everything as soon as it breaks for new and I do that alot good thing the store is close huh.
JON

[Rudi]

David:

Don't know what Cummins is or Homier either. But at Princess Auto, all their stuff is warranteed. If not 100% satisfied return it for a replacement or refund.. NO QUESTIONS ASKED... I like that I have only ever had one tool break on me, and that was probably my fault.. but they exchanged it anyways.. And I like that

My good mechanics tools are all Snap-On, Husky, Craftsmen or Mac Tools depending on when and where I got em. My Snap-On guy still comes and visits and when he has good deals, he stops by so I can take advantage.

But, not all cheaper tools are bad tools.. quality is subjective to need and usage. And for those who do not use them everyday.. then lower priced, slightly lower quality is sufficient. I wish I could afford all Snap-On Tools, but it just isn't to be.. unless I win the Lotto 649

[Boss Hog]

Rudi


I should Have said low quality, It all depends on what you use them for.
I have my share of lower priced tools also.
David

[George Willer]

The difference between good steel and poor is very small... not enough for any company to use cheap stuff to save money. Just a few dollars a ton. Heat treatment is another matter.

If you're tempted to buy a cheap wrench, for example, drop it on the concrete to see if it rings. Practice with a known good one of your own ahead if time so you recognize the sound. In wrench sets look at the finish on the smallest ones. That's where fit and finish show.

You don't always get what you pay (extra) for.

[BIGHOSS]

I just removed the radiator plug to drain the coolant so I could pull the head. The original plug was on there finger tight with no leaking. Go figure! I don't know what was holding it on. There is just the faint impression of threads on the plug. What type thread is this supposed to be. If I can't repair this easily, do I raise the hole and tap for a 1/2" npt or what?

[Bigdog]

3/8" NPT. Just run the tap and clean out the threads.

[BIGHOSS]

Thanks BigDog.

I will need a die as well as a tap, because the plug is almost smooth. If worse comes to worse, can I cut off the top of a 3/8 plug and the bottom of the Cub plug and weld the new threads on the old plug?

[Bigdog]

Just run to the local hardware or plumbing supply place and pick up a plug. I now prefer brass ones as they are softer and if the worst case scenario happens, it should clean out easier.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Don't run the tap all the way in like you would a bolt, those are tapered threads. My local Carquest stocks the bras plugs, both hex head, and a square head to match the original.

[BIGHOSS]

My old plug is the type that has the two ears to remove it. I am sure it is the original and I would like to keep it if possible. That is why, if necessary, I will try to take two plugs to make one that will look original.

[Rudi]

Guys:

I am really watching this thread... so would y'all do me a favour to kind of make my next little project for the How To Section a tad bit easier?

I need to know what sizes we need for Taps & Dies to chase threads on the Cub... ALL of em... and I am not an expert on thread sizes.. and have no clue as to what should be NC NF etc... so if there is a boo-boo please let me know..

So far I have..

The Carb

Almost complete (see what tap and die sizes for my 3/4" carb thread)

Cap, HexHd, Bolt or Nuts

1/4"-18NC
1/4"-20NC
1/4"-28NF
5/16"-18NC
5/16"-24NF
3/8"-16NC
3/8"-24NF
7/16"-14NC
7/16"-20NF - Front Lug Bolts
7/16"-24NC
1/2"-13NC
1/2"-20NF - Fuel Sediment Bowl Fuel Outlet
9/16-12 NC
5/8"-11NC
3/4"-10NC
3/4"-16NF
7/8"-9NC
1-1/8"-7NC


NPT Plugs

3/8" NPT - Radiator Drain Plug
1/2" NPT - Rear Axle Housing


Hex Head/Square Head/Socket Plugs


1/8"-27 Auto Sq HD Pipe - TC Pump
1/4"-18NC SQ HD Plug - Steering Gear
3/8"-18NC SQ HD Plug - Steering Gear
3/4"-14NC SQ SOC Plug - Rear Housing
7/8"-18NC TC Filler and Drain Plugs

Machine Screws

6-20
6-32
8-32
10-24
10-32
12-24
12-32

Zerks

1/8"-27
1/4"-28
1/4"-28 NS Tapered

Can you add please?

[Don McCombs]

Rudi,

Perhaps this table will help you determine which thread counts are NC or NF.

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/US-TPI.aspx

[Buzzard Wing]

With my red Cub essentially done I can say from having done about a million holes in both tractors that a standard set will do you fine for most things. I chased ever hole that had a bolt in it and some that didn't.

To my recollection the only odd ones are the few fine threads (dog legs and ??) and the implement holes. (5/8 -11).