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BATTERY BOX differences

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Rick Prentice
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BATTERY BOX differences

Postby Rick Prentice » Wed Oct 25, 2006 3:33 pm

The cheaper ($49) boxes sold on ebay have a rear light brkt only .062" thick, the same thickness as the box. The original box is .087" thick with a rear light brkt .195" thick, alittle better than 3/16" .
The first pic is from Mr GW's post of the cheaper box, the second is an original.


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Postby Bus Driver » Wed Oct 25, 2006 6:07 pm

My earlier comment about the thin metal partially concerned the light bracket mount. If the heavier proper bracket is welded to the thin box, it will still vibrate and wiggle by flexing the weak box, breaking out a chunk of the box. The bracket will be fine, but will fall off when the box breaks. I did make some battery box parts from the 16 gauge and did weld in some 16 gauge patches for rusted out sections of original boxes. How many of you have original boxes that would be OK if they had an new bottom in them? I have two, but probably should do electrolysis cleanup before welding in the two new bottoms that I was able to buy. I do not yet have the electrolysis setup.
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battery box

Postby Kevin » Thu Oct 26, 2006 8:56 pm

well billyandmillie
sounds like you have some work ahead to make all us guys in need of a new battery box one at a good price. just kidding i know everyone is really busy this time of year but if you ever have that extra time on your hands just maybe a couple 3 pt hitches.
having fun thinking about the good times to come plowing snow.
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Postby Matt Kirsch » Fri Oct 27, 2006 8:02 am

TM has a nice box. A little pricey, but that's how they stay in business.

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Postby Bermuda Ken » Fri Oct 27, 2006 8:06 am

Put the China made box on a scale and weigh it. Now weigh the IH box. The IH box weighs almost DOUBLE what the China box does!!!

That alone should be a major indicator of quality. The China box costs less, because you get less!!
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Postby Brandon Webb » Fri Oct 27, 2006 8:08 am

I bought a good original battery box bottom on ebay for $38 bucks this week:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... &rd=1&rd=1

All you need are the original lids with the rounded corners. Tm's reproduction box bottom works with the stock lids and he makes the fronts also. He also reproduces the Wing Nut hold downs for like $1.75 each. I can remember seeing original battery boxes on ebay bring $200+. Brandon.

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Postby Rudi » Fri Oct 27, 2006 9:07 am

Rick:

Excellent! That is exactly what we need to do for that page... side by side or top and bottom comparisons of the Good, the Bad and the Ugly :!: :wink: :lol: :lol: And this is the whole rationale behind the idea and the threads.

Now for the secondary notes.... and these really are not germane to the threads premise.. so I will keep it short and then get off of my Image :!:

Guys here is the scoop on Aftermarket Parts and Dealer Parts from my viewpoint:

1. Ken is right! For the most part the CaseIH boxes are top notch. But I am going to qualify this. As in the Car Rental Business some things are well "Not Exactly". In the case of Carter & Grunewald, their reputation is well deserved and they provide the good stuff. Proof is in the pudding.. ask me -- Ken has made sure I get the Right Parts. However, some CaseIH Dealers stock the cheaper Chinese imports.. as in any purchase around those kinds of prices so be careful. But buy from a trusted CaseIH Dealer like C&G.

2. TM Tractor Parts has excellent repros! Why do I know this? I met his fabricators at Cecil's. Funny thing. Although we are separated by almost 1,000 miles a few state lines and a border plus ignorance of each other.. both Tom's fabricators and my fabricator and I, came up with identically the very same solution to the box problem. All of our boxes are made from 14 guage steel, and in my case it is sandkote. Tom's fabricators are top notch. One big difference.. their wire bracket is superior to mine... a tradeoff.. oh well :roll:

But in both of the above cases you have to be willing to pay the price. You always get what you pay for :!: :idea: :!: If it is pricey, well it usually can be an indicator of quality. If the parts come highly recommended, that is a good indicator of quality. I know what it costs to make a box. I know how much time it takes to make a box. You don't get stuff for nothing..... In my case, I could not justify as stated in my Rudi's Battery Box PPS show, the over double the US cost of a box and make that x's 3 now, so I had mine custom built.

There are many places to get what you need and that is the beauty of our countries.. we have choices. But lets make good choices. Those choices are decided by many factors -- most of the time -- it is budgetary. So you may have to save up your scheckles for a while .. I do.. and get good stuff. Sometimes you can get lucky and get a used box in great condition for next to nada on eBay. Other times all you will get is burned... be prepared. Support our dealers and our sponsors if you can.. they have earned our trust.. No need to reinvent the wheel.
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Sat Oct 28, 2006 10:37 pm

I would leave the battery sitting on the platform before I would install one of those boxes. Ok I would probably put the one with the plywood bottom back or use the plastic box for the camper battery.

But I was lucky enough to get off easy on my alleged speeding violation in NY so I splurged and bought a battery box from Tom (and the awesome seat cover he sells too). It is really well crafted from quality materials.

I am pretty particular about some stuff and let things that 'show' slip by without too much thought. So all the bearings and seals got replaced in the tranny and rear end, but I put the muffler and the rusty clamp back on. I will get around to cleaning up the clamp (or even spring for a new one) but it doesn't hurt anything to have it on there. I am also pretty 'frugal' but have found that both C&G and TM both sell quality parts and their prices are comparable if not better than what you would pay elsewhere for the same item. The big difference is that you will get the RIGHT part, they will stand behind what they sell, and most importantly they have integrity.

We are lucky to have such great folks to deal with!

BTW, although $109 is not spare change.... it really is reasonable for a quality battery box, front and top.... and all the hardware. About the same price as a timing belt for a car from a dealer parts department.

http://www.tmtractor.com/el/677fp.htm

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Oct 28, 2006 10:48 pm

BW, I have a cub that the battery was left setting on the platform by previous owner for an unknown amount of time. It was pretty hard on the pan, bolts, and seat post bracket (it let the seat go over backward). I would rethink that statement.. LOL
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Postby Cecil » Sun Oct 29, 2006 6:05 am

Those of you that have delt with Columbia Tractor know that their parts are top quality also. Ron and Mike go out of their way to take good care of us.

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Postby Boss Hog » Sun Oct 29, 2006 9:04 am

I am double doumb I bout 2 of them. the 2nd one said it was just like orginal WRONG!!! But I think I can put my old battery box sides on the cheep bottoms The best cheap thing I ever got that was any count was Addvice.
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Postby Boss Hog » Sun Oct 29, 2006 9:15 am

My addvice which is free is dont by the cheap battery boxes
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Postby Rick Prentice » Sun Oct 29, 2006 10:53 am

Hey David. Tony the "TOOLMAN" did that exact thing, put the new bottom on his old sides. I couldn't find his pics. Maybe he'll post some for you. I know his came out great :D

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Postby TOOLMAN » Sun Oct 29, 2006 11:25 am

David
Yes That is exactly what I did
I was able to cut,chissel,and drill out all the welds from around the bottom plate (bottom part of battery case)
you have to do this carefully as to not bend it to badly.
I then drilled out the spotwelds on the new case around the bottom, bottom plate came right off very easy.
The older battery case was much harder to take apart because I am not sure they were spot welds and I had to do most of that very carefully with a small blade cold chissel but it broke the weld from inside the lip inside the battery box looking down.
After both bottoms are off just put the new one on the old sides and weld away the bottom will be thinner then the sides so be careful of burn through do spots 1st and work your way around filling in small length as you weld moving from side to side as to not warp the metal or burn to hot in one spot (just as if you were doing auto panel welding)
I will attach what pictures I have if you send me your email
I wish I had set it up as a how to do post and took more pictures, but having never done it before I was just winging it.
I think it came out real nice and it looks great
you wont see the bottom but I wanted it nice in case anyone looked down inside the box
Tony Good Luck
If you do it let me know how it comes out
Just take your time and remove the bottoms slowly dont rush. They do come off
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Postby TOOLMAN » Sun Oct 29, 2006 11:29 am

David I sent a few pictures to your email from the site
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