Busted steering gear housing.

[lndymn]

My 47 Cub that I just bought at auction seeped a little coolant on the way home ( bought it 10 blocks away). After scraping the paint away I found that the coolant froze and cracked the steering case. I also found a snapped off drill bit or something hard in one of the radiator flange holes. Can these be welded ? Or where can I find a used steering gear case?

[Bus Driver]

Someone noted that George Willer posted his method for removing the serial number tag without damage. I have been unable to find that. I have a replacement (used) casting for a frozen, broken, one. I want to put my original serial tag on the replacement casting. So I need to remove two tags and reinstall one. I think heating the brass drive pins would help, but am fearful of putting a torch on the aluminum serial plate. Any suggestions?

[Jack Donovan]

Yea, I'm shure you don't want to add heat, especly to the rivets. Heat expands. I think in GW"s post he worked around the rivet with a screwdriver slowly working it up and out. Good luck

[Bus Driver]

With brass tight in cast iron, heating the brass makes it expand and extrude. When the brass cools, it will be less tight. Certain John Deere repairs use the heating technique, but the aluminum serial tag on the Cub probably would be damaged before the brass is hot enough.

[George Willer]

Someone noted that George Willer posted his method for removing the serial number tag without damage. I have been unable to find that. I have a replacement (used) casting for a frozen, broken, one. I want to put my original serial tag on the replacement casting. So I need to remove two tags and reinstall one. I think heating the brass drive pins would help, but am fearful of putting a torch on the aluminum serial plate. Any suggestions?

I can't find it either, it was a while ago. I use two thin putty knives. I drive one in as far as the rivet from the opposite side of of the tag. Then I drive a second one between the first and the casting. This works the rivet out and it can be re-used. There may be a little distortion but it can be easily flattened. On the most recent one (Rambo's) I ground a narrow slot in the putty knife so it could go past the rivet a little. That helped.

[Boss Hog]

Guys, I aam having a brain fade I can't remember the pipe thread size of the manifold is it 1 in
David

Ment to start a new post

[George Willer]

Yes, 1" pipe standard, but some later models and power units used 1 1/4" pipe.

[BIGHOSS]

I have removed the old exhaust pipe from Uncle Bob's Cub using a "blue flame" wrench with no problem. The threads down in the manifold are all gone. I am trying to find a 1" npt tap to make new threads to borrow. Don't think that I can justify buying one for this onetime use. The question is can I tap the manifold while on the tractor or should it be removed to keep shavings from getting down in the manifold during tapping?

[Bigdog]

Stuff a shop rag down into the manifold before tapping. You can then either vacuum the chips or just pull the rag out bringing the chips with it.

[Don McCombs]

BIGHOSS, do you know any plumbers? They are likely to have exactly what you need.

[George Willer]

BIGHOSS, do you know any plumbers? They are likely to have exactly what you need.

The tap I have I bought new at a flea market a year or two ago for $10. Why bother the plumber? Isn't saving the manifold worth $10 or even a couple bucks more?

[Don McCombs]

George, if they can be found for $10.00, then yes, I agree!

[George Willer]

George, if they can be found for $10.00, then yes, I agree!

I can't remember his name (I may later), but he's the son of the guy from IL who deals in mags at nearly every swap meet I go to. The father and son separated maybe 10 years ago.

I have it! Branson Enterprises.

http://shopping.safeport.com/cgi-bin/webplus.cgi?script=/webpshop/store.wml&storeid=6

Not this site, but his son.