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A few cub questions?

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Mag Man
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A few cub questions?

Postby Mag Man » Fri Oct 13, 2006 10:48 am

Hi guys I bought this cub a few years ago and the guy said that it sat for seven to 10 years. He also said that he had the motor rebuilt just before that and it did not run right after that. Well I found a few things one was the had the govener timing off a few clicks. They had a bigger carb on her also. Once I got the timing correct and the origanel carb rebuilt right she runs so much better now but still lacks power she will run out of power climing a small grade in second gear. I believe the compression was OK when I checked it. And I also believ the rings have finally reseated after her long not running ordeal. So what else? How do you adjust the valves on these little guys? And what side of the spark plugs are the pistons on? Also I have a very noisy tranny what replacements will fit if I can find a newer one or better one?
THANKS JON
P.S. I WOULD HAVE ASKED ALL THIS AT NORTHEAST BUT COULD NOT GO

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Harold R
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Postby Harold R » Fri Oct 13, 2006 11:18 am

And what side of the spark plugs are the pistons on?


Well, I'm sure an engineer type could give you a better explaination, but if you look at the combustion chamber, the center of fire,(spark) is more toward the valves than the top of the piston, unlike the hemispherical chamber,(Hemi),where the ignition point was placed to put the force of the combustion directly over the top ofthe piston. Excellent for power. Not always the easiest to service though. 8)

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Postby rick 48 cub » Fri Oct 13, 2006 11:30 am

With a handle like Mag Man I am certain that you have a strong coil, etc.

I had the same trouble with my 1948 cub. Turned out that the govenor was hanging up on the pivit point near behind the cooling fan on towards the right side of the tractor. There was a pin (measuring roughly 1/4" diameter if I remember right) that the govenor linkage was riding on. As a result, the throttle was not opening up as the load increased so the rpm dropped.

I took it all apart, polished the parts with a wire brush, coated everthing with "never-sieze" anti-galling compound, and re-assembled.

Now it has plenty of pep to spin my 59" C3 belley mower!

If you are a risk taker, you can connect a wire or string to the throttle linkage and give it a pull while you feel your machine slowing down when you are climbing up that grade you referred to. That might isolate the govenor as the problem.

I have also heard wierd things like mis-wired spark plugs. Both incorrect routing or incorrect wire type.

Good Luck - and let us know what the problem is on your tractor.
Rick 1948 cub

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Mag Man
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Postby Mag Man » Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:27 pm

OK THE REASON I ask about what side the piston is on compared to the head is I have my boy doing some things Cause I am not feeling well. And I told him to put a wire in the spark plug hole for top dead center piston travel and he says nothing happens so I figured that the plug hole was probly over the valves or something. Un like my Hs and Ms. It could verry well be a hanging Gov or plugs or wires or coil but In the last few years I have replaced all of them and she still does the same so I figured if the timing was screwed up from the rebuild maybe the valves are out also. It will probly be a thing where I will have to wait till I fell better and tackle it my self or I may have visegrips holding my cub together you know how kids are. Hide the duct tape RED GREEN

JON

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Postby Eugene » Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:32 pm

Lance posted a how to adjust the valves in the "How to Section".


Low power problem is solvable. There may be several causes.

1) double check the timing. Then double check again.

2) plugged air cleaner.

3) compression check.

4) check valve tappet clearance.

Eugene

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:40 pm

to use a wire to find TDC, you have to put a dog leg bend in it so it reaches the piston.
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Mag Man
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Postby Mag Man » Fri Oct 13, 2006 1:55 pm

WHAT THE HECK IS A DOG LEG :? :? :? :?
Is that a thing that will pee on you if you dont watch it :P
JON

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Postby Jim Becker » Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:17 pm


Eugene
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Postby Eugene » Fri Oct 13, 2006 4:48 pm

Magman.

Since you are going to check the tappet clearance.

Double check on the valve timing - so you don't have to tear the engine front cover off.

I&T Manual IH-8, paragraph 56, has the double check. There is some discussion as to the exact measurement. My book says the DC notch will be 13/16" past the pointer.

I believe John P had a different set of specs in another book.

What year Cub and which ignition system?

Eugene

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Postby kinelbor » Fri Oct 13, 2006 7:13 pm

The valve lash could be your problem. When I adjusted my valves I had a noticeable gain in power. Slight grade that I couldnt make it up before without lugging in 3rd could now power right up it on the road. Hopefully you find the problem. 8)
Nik - 1948 Farmall Cub

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Mag Man
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Postby Mag Man » Fri Oct 13, 2006 8:08 pm

What year Cub and which ignition system?

51 WITH DISTRIBUTOR

Eugene
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Postby Eugene » Sat Oct 14, 2006 10:15 am

I'm still on ignition timing. Something else to check. Check to see if the rotor is pointing directly at the plug tower when the points just start to open.

After you get through with the previous check list. Check for an obstruction in the main carburator jet.

Eugene


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