Cub essential tools

['Country' Elliott]

Well MIKE...I'll bet ya NEVER EXPECTED ALL THOSE SUGGESTIONS just fer askin' the question: " What Tools, etc. would you..."

While we're at it...let's NOT FORGET:

A HEATED, AIR CONDITIONED 50 Feet WIDE by 150 Feet Long WORK SHOP.

An Air-Operated TIRE Machine...A 12 Foot by 20 foot INCLOSED, DUST-FREE Spray Booth...a 5 foot by 10 foot by 4 feet deep POLY-MOLDED Electrolysis Tank...a 15 foot by 18 foot enclosed MEDIA-BLASTIN' ROOM...
A Gravity-Flow, Ceiling-Suspended 55 Gallon Drum of KROIL (with fine needle air-equiped spraygun...

HAVE I LEFT ANYTHING ELSE OUT GUYS

[George Willer]

Those inexpensive farmer fixes sure make it hard on us restorer's. I understand some farmers "Fix" things in the field to get the job done, sometimes you can't run to town. But permantly destroying something's original design, like taking a welder to the front spindles and steering arms, I don't feel there's any excuse for that. Brandon.

Brandon,

You're just too young to have gained the important experience. If there had been a welder close enough and cheap enough to weld the arms to the spindles on the !#$%^&* JD GP (and if my opinion mattered) maybe I wouldn't have developed such a hatred for them.

Just imagine sending some teen ager to the far corner of the upper 40 every time the temporary repair failed to carry all the stuff necessary to jack the !#$%^& tractor up to get the front wheels back so the tractor would steer once again.

Us restorers have a piece of cake compared to what we had to do just to get through the day.

[Merlin]

1--Roll of bailing wire.
2--Pair of water pump pliers.


Back when, if a farmer was lucky enough to have a welding machine everything would have been welded. When the steering arm got loose on my Dad's Super A in the 60s, he called me over one day and told me he wanted me to weld the steering arm to the steering shaft. I told him I would replace it but he wouldn't hear of it. All the spindles and everything else was welded so he wanted that welded also. So I got a 309 SS rod and proceeded to stick it up, in, and around and daubed it on. Grease and all. When I got it in 1977, I proceeded to get rid of all the welds and now can say there isn't one weld anywhere on it.

[Cecil]

Of all the glorious tools that I see here the main ones missing are 2 brass punches. One large and one small. You can beat the daylights out of something stuck and still not damage it. Real good for those bolts that have to be driven out. Saves the heck out of the threads.

[Super A]

Those inexpensive farmer fixes sure make it hard on us restorer's. I understand some farmers "Fix" things in the field to get the job done, sometimes you can't run to town. But permantly destroying something's original design, like taking a welder to the front spindles and steering arms, I don't feel there's any excuse for that. Brandon.

Brandon, while I agree with you in principle, and like to do it "right the first time," There are times when a little "rigging up" is perfectly acceptable, and in fact necessary in my book. There is no more helpless feeling than gazing at a field to be planted or harvested, and knowing one small part is keeping a machine from doing it. Sometimes the machine simply HAS to run. The farmer deals with an entirely different set of priorities than a restorer does. He is often facing impending bad weather, razor-thin profit margins, etc. Real world example: a friend of ours is currently picking our corn. We had about 140 acres this year and he has about 50-60 left to go. So far, his "main" combine has developed a bad knock, (probably a spun bearing) so he is running his "backup" machine, until his other one is fixed, a 6600 Deere that is older than he is. (And probably older than me, I'm a '74 model and it is a '73 or '74.) Well, day before yesterday, it sheared a pin on the sprocket driving the clean grain elevator chain, and before he discovered the problem, it filled the entire cleaning system (basically the whole back end of the combine full of shelled corn. Replaced the roll pin, and all seemed well. Well, yesterday it did it again--twice. So he finally gave up and welded the sprocket to the shaft. Was it the best way to repair it? Obviously not. However, when you look at the cost of a new auger, shaft, sprockets, and probably a elevator chain, plus the time it would take to do all that repair, the cost of a couple welding rods makes a lot of sense. A little work with a torch once harvest is over will put things back right. Sometimes you "gotta do what you gotta do."



Al

[Eugene]

HAVE I LEFT ANYTHING ELSE OUT GUYS

DUCT TAPE, THREE ROLLS

Refrigerator for the beverages.

Parts washer.

Photogenic calendars to hang of the shop wall - Uh, tractors or old cars.

Old sofa - large enough to take a nap on.

I'm still thinking.

Eugene

[Little Indy]

a small frig for a cool one and a chair to sitr down and admire your work

Richard

[kinelbor]

Add big air compressor, water trap, and a air paint sprayer. I used a detail gun and it worked great for the Cubs size if you dont mind adding paint more often. The small sandblaster (50lbs) is very handy! Dont forget safety, NIOSH resperator, safety glasses, ear protection (for air tools and angle grinding) and full face shield. Also, some type of hand crank, either an original or homemade unit. I used the jack crank from my old pickup, it works great.

[sviennadan]

Only thing I see missing is cold beer and roasted possum!

Well MIKE...I'll bet ya NEVER EXPECTED ALL THOSE SUGGESTIONS just fer askin' the question: " What Tools, etc. would you..."

While we're at it...let's NOT FORGET:

A HEATED, AIR CONDITIONED 50 Feet WIDE by 150 Feet Long WORK SHOP.

An Air-Operated TIRE Machine...A 12 Foot by 20 foot INCLOSED, DUST-FREE Spray Booth...a 5 foot by 10 foot by 4 feet deep POLY-MOLDED Electrolysis Tank...a 15 foot by 18 foot enclosed MEDIA-BLASTIN' ROOM...
A Gravity-Flow, Ceiling-Suspended 55 Gallon Drum of KROIL (with fine needle air-equiped spraygun...

HAVE I LEFT ANYTHING ELSE OUT GUYS