Cub Rear Rims--Tubeless Tires?

[Bill E Bob]

Have recently purchased new Firestone 8.3x24 turf tires which allow
tubeless application. Has experience shown anyone if this application
will work using circa 1948 rims in GOOD condition? If so, does there
need to be any type of sealant applied to the rim interior to keep them
airtight?

Thanks
Bill

[Rick Prentice]

Hi Bill. I can't answer about the rears, but I've had the Firestones on the front of the backhoe cub for nearly 3 years now and they're tubeless. And they get abused, but I do think that tubes would give some added assurance against maybe a blowout or something Im not aware of.

One of the experts will open our eyes if there's a safety factor involved with not using tubes.

Rick

[johnb175]

Well I think my rear on my 56 is tubeless but I am no expert. I just obtained the tractor last week. Does anyone know where to get the front tires for this tractor? Mine are size 5.60-15 and I called every tire place in my local area and nobody has that size. I found someone would said they could get a 5.90-15 5 rib with tubes for $110. To see the tires I have reference the pictures here

[George Willer]

Well I think my rear on my 56 is tubeless but I am no expert. I just obtained the tractor last week. Does anyone know where to get the front tires for this tractor? Mine are size 5.60-15 and I called every tire place in my local area and nobody has that size. I found someone would said they could get a 5.90-15 5 rib with tubes for $110. To see the tires I have reference the pictures here

John,

When I looked at your pictures earlier I thought the front wheels looked big. The 15" wheels were used on a hi-crop and the standard wheels on an F-Cub are 12". The Hi-Crop had larger rear wheels as well, I think 30". Some earlier owner must have gotten creative. Your search for front (tube type) tires would be easier if you found the right (12 x 2 1/2") rims. They aren't hard to find.

[Jim Becker]

If you decide to stay with the 15" fronts, change to 4:00-15 tires. That is what the original 15's would have been and should be easy to find.

[Rudi]

John:

I am no expert on tractor tires and tubeless versus tubes, and I normally will defer to the experts. But for my applications, I just use some old common sense.. derived from experience in other areas.. Lawn tractors... PITA.. most are tubeless. I have had my tires fixed I don't know how many times. I have even used that injection stuff they put in the tires at the Small Engine Repair places...

But.. nothing beats a tube. You get a small cut in the tire.. and it doesn't penetrate to the tube.. you still get to rock and roll. You don't have a tube.. well so much for rocking an rollin.. you are now standing doing a poor immitation of a jitter-bug..

I use tubes.. and on all my cubs.. I am using tubes on all 4 shoes. Especially on the rims that had loaded tires.. but, that is just me.

[BIGHOSS]

When replacing front wheels on a CUB, do you buy the whole assembly or can you just get a new rim and rivet it to the old wheel? How much of a problem do you have if you install just a rim on the wheel?

[George Willer]

When replacing front wheels on a CUB, do you buy the whole assembly or can you just get a new rim and rivet it to the old wheel? How much of a problem do you have if you install just a rim on the wheel?

You just get the whole wheel. The centers are MUCH more common than the rims anyway. It seems to me that half the garden tractors in the world use the same wheel center. It isn't worth messing with to take the wheel apart.

Here's Scruffy wearing the GT rears that were given to Cowboy a while ago. As you can see, the centers are the same as a Cub.

[Bill E Bob]

Nothing personal guys, but the original post seems to have migrated
from rear to front. I need information on the rear rims as to reliable
tubeless application. Could the rims (if in good shape) be expected
to hold air considering the rivets used to hold the disc attachment
points? Again, looking to save a buck or two on tubeless without having
to go through trial and error. BTW the tractor, when complete, will
be mostly a garage/trailer/show queen.

Thanks for all the info so far, and really appreciate the forum.
Bill

[Bigdog]

Personal opinion - you should use tubes.

[Rudi]

Personal opinion - you should use tubes.

Bill:

Personal opinion = Use tubes

This is not an overly complicated situation. Basic rules:

1. Decide what tire/brand/type you like.
2. Decide if you prefer tube or tubeless and validate by visually inspecting your rims and seeing if they will provide a good seal. I can pretty much bet on the answer being a resounding NO, unless the rims have been say in the Electrolysis Tank, then patched, ground, and either re-galvanized or powder coated. And even then I would strongly lean to tubes as the proper thing to do.
3. Decide how often you want to dismount and remount them thar rear tires.... Personally, once would be sufficient.

I have a saying.. pay it now or pay it later. If you choose later it usually is at least double or triple the pay it now price

For the amount of money that you will spend, the hassleless environment is well worth the US $12.00 for a 8.3X24 9.5X24 CUB TRACTOR TUBE NEW. Order 2 and save on shipping.

On an added note, seeing as this is a pretty common question, let me add this. Personally, I would have bought the tires and tubes together

2 CUB FARMALL TRACTOR TIRES W TUBES 8.3x24 SIX PLY HEAVY DUTY OLD ORIGINAL STYLE TREAD from say Tucker Tire for US $204.00 and have been done with it.

Miller Tire supplies the 8.3-24 4 Firestone Traction Field & Road B $155.00, but they do not include the tube.


And the tubes are: 8.3/9.5-24 Rubber Master Tube TR218 I $22.00

I priced them at my dealer.. and I don't want to have to mortgage the house or sell the van to buy a pair..

[George Willer]

Personal opinion - you should use tubes.

Personal opinion: You should definitely use tubes.

[Rick Prentice]

Well, since not even the experts could tell the reason for using tubes, I did a search on tubes and found this statement in one of the articles; "In the older type of pneumatic tire, air is sealed in an inner tube of butyl rubber beneath the body. In a tubeless tire the seal between the beads and the wheel rim is airtight and the underside of the tire body is coated with butyl rubber to keep the air from escaping."

I guess with that in mind, a new version of tire that states it is suitable for tubeless applications would work, providing the rim was ok, like Rudi stated.

Some "NEW WINE" technology

My .02

Rick

[Bill E Bob]

THANK YOU!!
Guess I'll spring for the tubes. My Rims are in remarkably good
condition (no ballast or rust), however, as everyone said, tubes
is the way to go, I will spring for a couple to go with the two I have
(I'm setting up duals) and hopefully never have to change a tire
again!

you folks are the best, and your info and expertise are invaluable.

Thanks again

Bill