Hydraulic bypass block hose & coupler sizing

[tmalloy]

I plumbed in the bypass block using 1/4'' quick connect couplers on the side and bottom ports. It's my understanding that a hose accross these should allow me to leave the bypass block on even after I have disconnected any supplemental hydraulics (like a loader). However, speed and power of the touch-control is very poor for lifting my mower. If I remove the bypass block and put the system back to original it works fine. Would anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Are my couplers/hoses too small? I don't like having to install and remove the bypass block when I'm not using supplemental hydraulics, it is too messy and wastes fluid. Thanks for any help.

[Rick Prentice]

Hello. I would think 1/4" should work fine, unless you have some other restriction somewhere. Just make sure you run that jumper like you have been, cause you won't like the outcome if you forget. Several members have "Dead-Ended" their systems and broke teeth on the pump and inside the front of the engine.

Is there anyway you can post a pic of which by-pass block you have? There's several versions out there now.

Rick

[brian kov]

yeah , you definately wont like it ,my 1960 cub is still torn down cause of it .it is starting to be put back together finally

[Dan Robertson]

The pic shows my aux hyds being bypassed using a 1/4" hose. The TC works fine being plumbed this way.
BTW -- the fitting supplying high pressure from the hyd. manifold is only 1/8" pipe thread.
You mention using quick connects. This may be part or all of your problem. I understand that quick connects should be sized one size larger then the hose they are connected to. They is to compensate for the restrictive nature (ie. ball valves, springs etc.) contained within the quick connect. I used 1/4" hoses on my blade cylinders along with 3/8" quick connects. Things operate great.