TC fluid getting into crankcase.

[EZ]

Hi guys,

After the rebuild of my '67 Lo, I was noticing after a few weeks that the TC was looking in trouble. Sure enough, looks like the fluid is leaving the TC unit, as verified by a significant drop in level, and the level in the crank is increasing, as verified by the dip-stick.

During the rebuild, I swapped all the gaskets and o-rings at the pump end. Which one of those rings/seals is not doing it's job?

PS. The TC works like a charm when topped up.

[Rick Prentice]

Hi EZ. Since you stated everything works fine when filled up, I'd have to say the seal #9A is damaged somehow. It's the small seal in the housing that you can only get to if you remove the gear and slide the shaft out. Here's the link to Rudi's server. Rick

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/GSS-1024%20Touch%20Control/Page%2028.jpg

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

If you have the early one, the sela part number is 355742R91. Napa or Carquest can cross it over to an aftermarket one. If you have the aftermarket one, the oring is listed as 1/2x11/16x3/32. It is part of the pump kit part number 355208R91. It vontains orings, pump body gasket, mounting gasket, orings for pump flange, etc.

[EZ]

Thanks guys,

Looks like I've got the newer pump with O-ring. Once I get some time I'll be "going in".

[EZ]

Well guys..............

I have the TC pump on the bench. The O-ring (9A) must be inside the pump body just behind the pump drive gear which sticks out the front and into the block of engine.

I removed the drive gear which is held in palce with a 9/16 nut. There is a key (at least I think it's a key) but that key is a bull to get out. Without removing the key I cannot remove the shaft from the pump body. I kind of remember trying to get this out during the rebuild. That may have been when the O-ring was damaged. There was an extra O-ring in the package and I guess that's the one I need.

Any ideas on how to safely remove that key?

Don't want to bend/damage the shaft.

[Cruiser]

I've removed that key on 3 or 4 different pumps by simply locking onto it with a square edged lock pliar and just wiggling it out. It sticks out far enough to grip if the pliars have a flat head. The lock pliars may leave a few scratches or dimples in the key but that doesn't hurt it's function. Then when replacing the key just tap it in lightly with a hammer.

[EZ]

Hmmm...........

Well key out, pulled shaft thru.

I do not see the part 9A, Drive Shaft Seal Ring.

I cannot figure how this O-ring would work. It would have to be be a snug fit in the body so it would not spin and eventually wear out.

Perhaps the part 9A has to be ordered separately? I don't have a seal that will fit over the drive shaft.

Could the problem be one of the part #11 O-rings?

This is a '67, so the pump #355006R93 must be the newer model.

Anybody got a pump on the shelf they could look at to verify the location of the shaft seal. The picture actually shows the seal on the outside of the pump, but I can't see how that would work either.

[EZ]

This is interesting.

My model number on pump is # 05100404107.

So............do I have version 07 ? which is clearly not listed on the page at TM Tractor.

Maybe I don't require a shaft seal?

I've sent an email to Tom to see if he can sort this out.

http://www.tmtractor.com/hy/288fp.htm

[George Willer]

EZ,

The O-ring fits into a groove on the inside of the housing and only projects slightly into the bore to seal against the shaft. It can be hard to see. It will be difficult to get out, but the good news is... With the replacement properly lubricated it will go in easily. Lubrication is VERY important to avoid damaging the seal (O-Ring).

[Donny M]

I slight chamfer on the shaft is helpful also. Just enough to break the edge.

[EZ]

GW,

I went back out and was looking it over with a magnifying glass and lo-and-behold there it was in a groove. I took it out and went thru the parts I had leftover from the rebuild. I think I have it. The O-ring that fit in there was a brown color and appears to be a good fit. I will still have to verify if that is the correct O-ring seal though as the original was black and surface that touches the shaft is flat. Not sure if that is from wear, or if that is the way it is made.

I fibbed in an earlier post.........the key IS NOT out of the shaft yet. That little bugger is stuck in there good. Also notice it is not too soft like most keys. I have it soaking overnite and will try again in the am.

The instructions I found with the kit say there should have been a new key in the package but I could not find it.

[EZ]

Guys,

take a look at the pic of the TC Oring kit.

Is the brown colored O-ring the Drive Shaft Seal O-ring?

http://photos.cubfest.com/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=10048&pos=0

[Rick Prentice]

Hi EZ. Yes, the brown should be the one you want to use. Make sure you follow George's advice and lubricate the o ring during installation. Also follow Donny's advice and check for any burrs on the shaft and carefully remove them before you slide the shaft through.

Rick

[Cruiser]

EZ wrote:

The O-ring that fit in there was a brown color and appears to be a good fit. I will still have to verify if that is the correct O-ring seal though as the original was black and surface that touches the shaft is flat. Not sure if that is from wear, or if that is the way it is made.

The flat surface is exactly why TC fluid was getting into the crankcase--as the O-ring wears from the shaft turning it slowly flattens out from years of pressure and then at some point stops sealing. The brown o-ring is nice and round and will make the shaft feel like its a lot tighter fit. It takes a little more pressure to spin it by hand after the pump is reassembled. In fact, they usually feel real "tight" and its tempting to think something is wrong but if you can spin it by hand its probably OK.

[EZ]

Cruiser,

You are correct!

Happiness is a tight seal.

I feel like a bit of TC Pump expert now. Been there and done it.

Thanks for all the help and patience guys.