What do I do Next???

[ArtieT]

With all of 20 minutes of hand cranking, some fresh gas, and a little starting fluid our '48 Cub started and purred like a kitten. It had been parked unused in a shed for about 15 years. The fact that it ran so smoothly tells me that all things electrical - magneto, timing, etc. - are reasonably functional. There is one problem. It will only run on full choke. Open the choke and she starves for gas and stalls. So - a carb cleaning or re-build is in order. Can I get away with just cleaning the carb or should I re-build it? I am thinking re-build. Who has the best re-build kit and where do I get it? Thanks!!!!

[Bigdog]

It's one of those "We might as well" type of situations. If you're taking it apart to clean it you might as well put a kit in it.
The IH kit is definitely superior. If you have no IH dealer close by then you can get it from Carter & Gruenewald online or TM Tractor online.
If you have a local dealer, make sure they sell you the IH kit, not an aftermarket one.

[Rudi]

ArtieT:

I am not sure if I managed to get this in during one of your first posts, and in case I missed it, here it is.

First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met

With all of 20 minutes of hand cranking, some fresh gas, and a little starting fluid our '48 Cub started and purred like a kitten. It had been parked unused in a shed for about 15 years. The fact that it ran so smoothly tells me that all things electrical - magneto, timing, etc. - are reasonably functional. There is one problem. It will only run on full choke. Open the choke and she starves for gas and stalls. So - a carb cleaning or re-build is in order. Can I get away with just cleaning the carb or should I re-build it? I am thinking re-build. Who has the best re-build kit and where do I get it? Thanks!!!!

I am with BD on this one... do the "might as well schtick" on this one. You can see the difference in the Carb Kits in Lurker Car's Carb Fixes at the link below on the Cub Manual Server. I would also follow through with a complete check over and gasket/screen renewal for the Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly as well.

Ok, so here is the spiel :

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.

Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These pages are intended to complement our Official FarmallCub.com Website Sponsors:

JP Tractor Salvage
Ralph's Cubs
TM Tractor Parts

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . While you are at it Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet is Ken's latest addition to the series. Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are three must have's in anyone's collection.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

Oh, and while the program still lasts.. you might want to check the Announcement: Navistar Free Gas Cap Offer - On-Line Form thread at the top of the Cub Forum and send away for the new style safety cap before that program runs out as well.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family

[Dave F]

I think before I messed with the carb, I'd make sure I'm getting gas through the bowl and stainer, I had the same problem not too long ago and it turned out not to be the carb in my case. Just a thought.

[oronc]

I DIFFENTLY AGREE WITH BIGDOG AND MY OWN EXPERIENCE,STAY AWAY FROM CHEAP $19.95 CARB KITS.I.E. TRACTOR SUPPLY ONES,
THEM PUPPIES WILL BITE YOU IN THE BUTT. SPEND THE CASH A BUY AN O.E. ONE FROM IH OR TM.

[Don McCombs]

If I were in your shoes (and I recently was), I'd check out the fuel system from tank cap to carburetor. Make sure everything is open and clean. Check the vent in the fuel tank cap and replace the gasket. Then order yourself a new safety cap from Navistar. Drain out all the old (or new) fuel and clean out any rust and/or debris in the fuel tank. There's bound to be some after 15 years of storage. Remove and replace the fuel bowl screen and gasket. Clean the fuel strainer bowl. Make sure the fuel shut-off works properly in both positions. Check the fuel line for any obstructions or leaks. Thoroughly clean the carburetor and install the proper CaseIH rebuild kit. Completely disassemble the carb and remove all the non-metal components (seals & gaskets). Soak it in carb cleaner. I use Chem-Dip in the gallon size, paint type can with a basket. Make sure all the holes, passages and orifices are open and clean. Check the throttle body (top) for any warpage (see Lurker Carl's Carb Fixes on Rudi's manual server). During reassembly, use a fuel resistant thread sealant on the float needle cage and discharge nozzle. Use a fuel resistant gasket sealant on the main jet gasket. Set the float height according to Lurker Carl's Carb Fixes. Reinstall the carb, open the fuel valve and check for leaks. There's really not a lot of work involved in what I've just described, but I think you will find that the effort was well worth it.

Good luck.

[ArtieT]

Thanks for all the words of wisdom - just what I needed. The plan for now is start at the tank and work my way down to the carb and finish with a carb re-build. Thanks again

[KETCHAM]

I wish Krusty would have started after five years outside.No rain cap or can over the exhaust.Congrats!!!!15 years is a long time to sit.Watch your oil seals[front and rear]change oil now!!Nice to hear a old cub come back to life.Need any help or suggestions get on this site .Best people around.KETCHAM

[Rudi]

ArtieT:

This is kinda funny... in a coincidentally kind of way. Here Ellie has been running like a top for months now.. working her butt off plowing and plowing, discing and plowing.. nary missing a beat.. working hard and working sweet..

Geez.. I am a poet and didn't know it

Parked her the other day.. and she sat and rested for about 3 or 4 days I guess. Went out today to start her up and to go plow some more - levelling off my fields, getting ready for a trip up the road to get some manure..

Well darn if she won't run right.. as you said:

It will only run on full choke. Open the choke and she starves for gas and stalls. So - a carb cleaning or re-build is in order.

Ellie is doing the very same thing. So, I guess, I will have to look at the plugs, check the points, rotor and condenser and rebuild the carb again. I noticed that my rubber gas line is now aging a bit, so I may as well , I guess fab a new steel fuel line.

George! Can you post that pic again and measurements May as well do it right... and I will make 2 or 3 at the same time I think.. that way I will have some on hand for the other Cubs.

I took the time to power wash her today as well. Going to need to do it again, but , she looks much better than she did before she got her shower.

I am not sure why, but she was also down on oil, and it was evidenced by a drop in oil pressure. Filled her up and pressure came right back up again. While I was washing her up.. a tag blew off the engine. Seems she has had her mill rebuild previously.. pistons, rods and mains are all .30 hmmmmmm.. I am assuming that is 30thou over originals.. Gonna have to research that and see when she was redone. Last I heard, the engine was never touched.. oh well.. learn something new everyday.

[Don McCombs]

Rudi,

Is this what you're looking for?

How To Make a Steel Fuel Line

[Rudi]

Don:

Thank You!

That is exactly what I wanted.. Now I need to kick myself in the butt For NOT looking in the right FORUM.. ahhh duhhh!!!

Sheeesh.. some days I am dumb, dumb, DUMB!!

[cowboy]

Hi Rudi

Since you say all your tractors are dooing the same I would look at the points as It may be water condisation has gotten to them. I had a lot of problems with that this spring.

Billy

[Buzzard Wing]

One trick with tractors, especially a Cub, is that if it doesn't start right up it ain't gonna run.

BTW, howdy neighbor (I am stils the only one in RI??).

For the cheap fixes, the gasket and screen for the the fuel bowl are available at NAPA.

Couldn't hurt to just drop the bottom half of the carb and see how messy it is. But really it is probably worth the $52 (60 if you go with the Kohler kit too) to rebuild it. Not as difficult as it sounds, and Carl's tips help a lot.

I am going to post something on fuel, but the best advise is to use steel line.

If you are leery of the carb rebuild, bring it to Cecil's Cubfest.... we can help and you will have a good time!

Larry