Oil Type for Cub

[BIGHOSS]

I want to change oil in my Dad's 1947 Cub.

For the past 15 years after my dad's death, the cub was only cranked 3 or 4 times in the summer to cultivate a very small garden. The oil has not been changed on a regular basis. Any suggestions as how to drain and flush out the old oil.
Also, should I stay away from high detergent oil in this neglected engine? What is a good non-detergent oil to use and where can it be bought? Wal-Mart only has one brand (which I never heard of) of ND oil. Maybe the oil brand doen't make any difference as I plan to change it several times in the next few months. What is your opinion?

[Bus Driver]

I recommend getting an owner's manual first. Change ALL the fluids in the tractor. The manual shows the proper amounts and how to check the proper levels. For the engine, new filter and I personally would use 30 or 15W-40. The 15w-40 is really a Diesel oil such as Rotella, Delvac, or Delo. It is well suited for your engine. Detergent oil is OK. Other opinions may differ.

[Rudi]

BigHoss:

As was suggested.. you should get a manual..

One of the best tools for a Cub in your toolbox is the three manuals listed in the welcome wagon. My recommendation is to use CaseIH Low Ash 30W oil, no detergent.. as recommended in the Owners Manual... but the choice ultimately is up to you.

Do READ the Welcome Wagon again, and read the info on the links posted therein. That is about the best advice you can get.

[BIGHOSS]

I have a McCormick Farmall Cub Tractor operators manual that came from the dealer.. I doubt that HD oil was available when the original Cubs were made. I can remember when HD oil first became available. The older engines on regular oil that were not burning oil were changed over to HD and immediately, because of its cleaning ability, started burning oil. A rule by owners and mechanics was formed that if an engine was already started on regular oil, you had better stick with it. When an engine was rebuilt or new engine installed, then HD oil could be introduced.

That was my concern. Since my engine appears to be in good condition. No smoking, good oil pressure, etc, I want to run it awhile to check it further. So, I think Rudi is right that I should stick to non- detergent.

Thanks for your input.

[Rudi]

BigHoss:

If you do a search on Detergent.... I think that will give you lots of results.. you will see that the point you made about burning oil is correct..... it is something that is seen.

When talking to my local CaseIH Dealers head mechanic.. Randy said that Low Ash was designed for the engines of the day and that the C-60 and the other engines of that era were designed to run with low-ash.

Also, if you look for a thread about Ellie's Head.. you will see that there is very, very little buildup on top of the pistons.. Ellie has always run with low-ash or so I have been told..

So, I think the proof is in the pudding... You are also correct, that the detergent type oils were not available then.. and not for some time after either...

As far as after it is rebuilt.. then I guess it is whatever you choose.. but I would probably still stick with the low ash oil..

Engine lasted almost 60 years.. it is a 48.. so I guess it will probably last another 40...

I imagine it is a personal preference.. there can be lots of debate on that topic..

Oh, I forgot that you mentioned that you had the original manual... so many threads.. not enough brain

[dracer398]

When I bought my 51 cub, I had to deal with the previous owners son since the previous owner had passed away. He told me his father didn't change the oil much and he thought that it needed an oil change but his father instructed him not to change it. When I checked the oil, it looked like molasses. It was nasty! I changed it and used 10w30 synthetic.

I have had real good luck so far with it. I think that with the technology of the oils that we use today it will increase the engine life. Just think about the 50's and 60's. An engine that ran for 100000 miles was considered high miles and usually burned oil. Now we get 200000 and sometime 300000 on these engines. I think that that says a lot for the oils of today and a good maintenance schedule.

My thoughts are that if the detergent oil cleans the engine and it starts smoking, it needed to be rebuilt anyway. Myself, I don't like to rely on carbon and sludge to keep my engine running. And chances are that if it's running that way it's also low on power.

Just a little food for thought...

Brian

[Bus Driver]

My earlier comments about the detergent oil were based on the belief that the detergents of themselves cause no direct harm to the metals used in an engine. Some say to not use detergent oil, and for the CUB, that should work well. Others post about the benefits of adding SeaFoam to the oil. I have some SeaFoam, but have never used it. Very expensive, and reading the label reveals that it is mostly solvent. Seems to me that solvents would do about the same as the detergent additives inside the engine. Perhaps the solvents would do it faster. SeaFoam good, detergents bad? Seems contradictory to me.

[Rudi]

Have a look here...

Low Ash Engine Oils

CaseIH Low Ash Engine Oil.

As for additives, both Marvel Mystery Oil or MMO and SeaFoam have been used and proved effective by anecdotal evidence. Empirical would be best, but most empirical data is skewed to the company wishing to collect the data.. so the conclusions are suspect. And I guess, that along with those additives, then the case for non-detergent might be dampened.. but based on what I have read,

I think that if available, and if that is what you prefer, use the Low Ash. If you experience in other engines and engine types indicated your preferrence for a particular product, then I guess it would be prudent to use what you have good experience with.

If you start blowing a lot os smoke, then I would be re-evaluating the situation..

I really do believe that whatever oil/fluids that are available/you have experience with/are proven for you, then those are the ones you should stick with, as long as they MEET or EXCEED the Manufacturer's Specs..

BH, your original question was -

What is your opinion?

Everyone has one they are all of equal value, but they may or may not apply to a specific instance...

[wwirz]

I use 30W Non-detergent oil that I pick up at NAPA. Works like a charm and I change the oil once a year.

Bill

[Bigdog]

BigHoss - as you can see, opinions on oil are wide and varied. If you have serious doubts as to the condition of your crankcase, drop the pan and have a look. A few minutes of your time and a few bucks for a pan gasket and you will know what will work best for you.
Like you, I'm not sure brand names mean anything in the petroleum industry. Pick an oil that you use in your other equipment to help reduce the necessity of keeping an inventory of various lubricants. If it meets the petroleum industry standards it will be good for the cub.

[Lurker Carl]

Detergent additives in oil are not solvents. They are chemical products that keep particulates in suspension so they can be collected in the oil filter element. Detergents reduce sludge formation by keeping the particles from settling, the detergents do not remove sludge.

Early detergent additives caused oil to foam. The same properties that kept particulates in suspension also kept air bubbles in suspension, thus the foaming problem. The foaming problem is why most engine manufacturers before 1960 call for non-detergent oil.

Use the same type of oil you use in your automobiles in your Cub. It will work just fine. Oil consumption has more to do with the overall condition of the engine than with the oil you're using.

[Arizona Mike]

HEH BIGHOSS

You should probably rinse out the gas tank good too .and and and