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split front wheel weights

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evielboweviel
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Postby evielboweviel » Sun Jul 23, 2006 5:42 pm

How much growth are we talking about and how critical do the tolerances actual have to be?
also are we talking about having numbers cast in?
In other words do these have to pass the perfect police or look similar and work?
Ron

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Phillip W. Lenke
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Postby Phillip W. Lenke » Mon Jul 24, 2006 5:34 am

I am a patternmaker. You will not need finish if it is not a machined surface.
Cast iron is between 3/32 and 1/8 " per foot( .008 per inch)
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Postby George Willer » Mon Jul 24, 2006 9:55 am

Finish is only important on pattern surfaces that have to part with minimum draft (near perpendicular to the parting line). Flatter surfaces don't matter much on wheel weights. I'm wondering whether the mounting holes should be cored? (I think so) It's fairly obvious that the originals were cast without concern for appearance, but the pattern still has to part from the mold. :(

Before computer assistance, patternmakers used rulers called 'shrink rules', and each one was really stretched to allow for the expected shrinkage. Each metal required a different rule.
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Postby evielboweviel » Mon Jul 24, 2006 2:44 pm

somebody give me some measurements with the shrink value added in and I will TRY to make something. NO GAURENTEEs of any thing other than trying
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Postby cowboy » Mon Jul 24, 2006 2:50 pm

I kinda hate to start this :?: But its a wheel weight not a engine part. I would not think that little shrinkage would hurt. I would doubt that you would loose a pound of weight and the max of 1/16 off per bolt should be workable.

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Postby Lurker Carl » Mon Jul 24, 2006 3:27 pm

My concern is the mounting holes in the wheel aligning with the mounting holes in the weights. That's probably the only "precision" issue that needs addressing.
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Postby Mike Schmudlach » Mon Jul 24, 2006 9:44 pm

One of my good friends, many of you know of him, Sneaky Peters, works for Brillion Iron Works as a Pattern Maker.
If you like we can put him on this project.
Mark (Sneaky) would know the exact specs for this little project.
Mike
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Postby danovercash » Mon Jul 24, 2006 9:54 pm

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Postby Bigdog » Mon Jul 24, 2006 10:01 pm

Mike Schmudlach wrote:One of my good friends, many of you know of him, Sneaky Peters, works for Brillion Iron Works as a Pattern Maker.
If you like we can put him on this project.
Mark (Sneaky) would know the exact specs for this little project.
Mike


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Postby Mike Schmudlach » Tue Jul 25, 2006 8:50 am

Between PWL and Sneaky we should be able to get something done.
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Postby Phillip W. Lenke » Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:27 am

I'll help anyway and anywhere I can.
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Postby Don McCombs » Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:36 am

With these two professionals on the job, this project just may get off the ground. In today's world of fakes being marketed as originals, I suggest that the pattern and resulting castings have some identifying mark that clearly identifies them as a repro, not an original.
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Postby Rudi » Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:39 am

Don:

I would suggest that Phil and Sneaky add their "chop" to the pattern. That way, they will know for sure it is theirs, also others will not be able to reproduce it, thereby eliminating clones..

As for the repro.. I definitely would add Jim Beckers thoughts on trademark and probably leave off the IHC in the pattern... and insert as you suggest something else to indicate it is a reproduction.

Pride in one's work is always a critical element of the criteria to be taken into account when a pattern maker or any craftsman applies his/her "chop" to their work. A chop is a signature, one of a kind and recognized by other craftsmen within their field. One must be proud of one's work, especially when their name is attached to it via a "chop" :!:
Last edited by Rudi on Tue Jul 25, 2006 2:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby double R » Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:29 pm

Cowboy, I agree with you. It ain't like building a watch.

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Postby Lance Leitzel » Tue Jul 25, 2006 2:26 pm

I'm interested too.
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