Ran, But won't start later

[Jeff Silvey]

Was out running the girl last night for about 15min Was running great in 1st,2nd,& 3rd. Got called in for supper. Went back out to put her up it would not start. Cranks over great. It started raining so I left her out all night. (Good thing BD didn't see her) This morning same thing ran the battery down. Close enough to the garage pushed her to the garage. Put on charger & checked the points OK. What else could it be Could it be the condenser HELP
Jeff

[Eugene]

Two thoughts as to where to start.

1) Check for spark at the plugs - no spark ignition problem.
2) Fuel supply problem. Remove drain plug from carburator and check fuel flow for 30 seconds.

Eugene

[Matt Kirsch]

There's no sense in running the battery flat cranking the tractor, praying that it will start. If it doesn't at least fire off in the first 30 seconds of cranking, it's a darned safe bet that it ain't gonna fire off in the next 30, the next 60, or the next 600. All you're doing is wearing the starter out and damaging the battery.

Don't take that to mean I'm berating you. That was just friendly advice that will save you big money in the long run.

Next: Air, fuel, and fire at the right time make for a running engine. If it won't fire, one of the four is missing. Air is generally a given, as it takes a LOT to completely clog up the air cleaner to the point where the engine can't breathe. If the engine was running fine before, and you shut it down normally, it's a safe bet that the timing is okay too.

That leave fuel and fire, the two most common issues. Since you shut the engine off, in other words it didn't quit, there should be enough fuel in the carb bowl to start and run for about 30 seconds. That leaves fire. Pull a spark plug and hold it the threads to a good ground on the tractor while having an assistant crank the engine over. If you don't see a strong blue spark, it's time to start troubleshooting ignition.

[beaconlight]

I had that happen on a Farmall C on 2 seperate occassions, years apart. In both instances the rivit that holds the metal part to the rotor rotted out and the piect fell off. The same rotor is used in the cub.

Bill

[Jeff Silvey]

FYI:
Checked for spark. NONE Replace the condensor. Still nothing Got plenty of fuel. I like what Matt said thaqts good.
Any other ideas

[Bigdog]

Check your ignition switch and connections. Don't know if you have a mag or battery ignition but it could easily be a switch malfunction.

[Jeff Silvey]

BD:
I have a battery ignition. When you pull the switch on you can see the AMP gauge go to the left. When you crank the tactor you can see the gauge go right-left. I think its working. I'm thinking now its the coil.
Jeff

[Jeff Silvey]

Changed the switch still Nothing Any other ideas. I was hoping to take to Portland.
Jeff

[KETCHAM]

PULLCOIL WIRE TO CAP OFF CRANK AND GROUND IT. SPARKS ITS NOT THE COIL. NO SPARKS CHECK TO SEE IF YOUR GETTING JUICE TO COIL IF NOT KEEP GOING BACKWARDS IN THE ELETRIC SYSTEM KETCHAM

[Jeff Silvey]

Did what Ketcham said. No spark. Checked both sides of coil with meter. Still nothing.
Thanks
Jeff

[Bigdog]

Jeff - no spark at the coil with a battery ignition means one of three things. Either the points are not making / breaking or you have no voltage to the coil or the coil is bad. (you did say you changed the condensor - right?)
Do I understand you to say that you measure no voltage on either coil primary terminal at any time. With the switch on, you should measure 6 volts on the negative primary terminal at all times and on the positive primary terminal when the points are open. The wire that attaches to the coil primary negative terminal runs back to the ignition switch. If you have 6 volts from the switch you should have it at the coil.

You can try running a jumper wire from the battery negative post to the coil negative terminal and see if it will run.
Since it was running fine and all of a sudden won't start it sounds like a wire broke off or fell off or the switch failed. Let us know what your readings are and we can proceed.

[wwirz]

I had the same thing happen to me. Checked everything that you checked. I replaced the coil and it fired right up!! Coil went bad....and without warning!!

Good luck!

Bill

[Matt Kirsch]

Sounds like Jeff doesn't have electric to the coil... Weird because the ammeter shows discharge... Could be the insulation on the wire that runs from the ignition switch to the coil rubbed bare somewhere along the line, and you're getting a short.

Get a voltmeter. Put one probe on a clean spot on the tractor frame. Turn the ignition on. Put the other probe to each of the two terminals on the coil. If you don't get a needle bounce on either side, you've got a short in the ignition wire. If you get a needle bounce on the side that runs back to the ignition switch only, you've got a bad coil.

[KETCHAM]

I agree with the last two posts.if ya run a wire from the neg post to coil your hot.My 1950 H is hot wired right now.[its disconnected i should say].The kill switch is bad.So I'm running a wire straight from the battery to the coil.[I'll get a kill switch sooner or later].This way you know the coil is getting juice.Then you can back track after that.Thats how I found out my kill switch was bad.If no firing up after that then coil test and move forward.Good luck and keep us posted.KETCHAM

[beaconlight]

Go here it a different Farmall tractor but it wires the same. Use picture 2.

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIn ... 065733&f=0

From what you have posted I take it you know how to use a volt meter. If not let us know and we will lead you through it. If you don't have one I think you can get one for under $10.00 at Radio Shack.

Bill