Cub Rim - Original Info & COLOR!

[gitractorman]

Last week at Cubfest I was telling folks how I needed to break down my rims and get the calcium out of the tires on my 1977 IH Cub. Well, today I got them apart, and wow, was I suprised. One of the rims was pretty full of rust, and the tube had leaked in that one. The other was almost like new on the inside. So here are a few pics of the rim, and you can clearly see the original galvanized color.

Also, Jim Becker and I were discussing how the rims were probably not originally IH rims, and were probably supplied by the various tire manufacturers, with the tires already mounted. Interesting to find mine stamped with 8-77 Firestone on the inside.

http://photos.cubfest.com/albums/userpi ... 4/Rim1.JPG
http://photos.cubfest.com/albums/userpi ... 4/Rim2.JPG

[Buzzard Wing]

Yikes that is minty! I would say it is original by the date code (8-77).

Strange but mine said Good Year, which suprised me because the front ones are 'Motor Wheel' company. The is the stamp after sandblast, but before paint. I never knew tire companies made rims too.

[Peter Person]

Good move on getting rid of the calcium chloride before too much damage was done. My rims were stamped "Firestone" on the interior as well. Mine were painted a gray color. I had R & B Powder Coat try to match the gray but they could not come up with a close enough gray so I went with the silver that they used on VideoDoc's rims. Shipping to and from Illinois from CT was $100 total and the sandblasting, zinc oxide primer, color coat, and clear coat was $50 total. This was for the rims only, not including the centers. VideoDoc had his centers and bolts done as well for a little more money. Great people to work with.
Quick turnaround too!
Peter
BEFORE:

AFTER:

[gitractorman]

Yea Peter, I thought long and hard about sending these out to be powder coated, but I decided to go to a local friend who does sandblasting and epoxy coating. He has done a bunch of tractor parts for me, and did the grader blade on my cub, so I'm sure the rims will come out ok.

I still need to make up a set of the little protectors that you had at Cubfest. That was a really slick idea.

I just received my set of gaskets for the final drives, so that is this weekends project. I figured that since it was jacked up I should go ahead and fix the leaking final drive pans. Hopefully, next week or the following, I will be back in operation.

Later,
Bill

[Cecil]

OK I like it. "While I have the rear tires off I might as well" comes close to "While I have the hood off I might as well." What do you think Pete?

[Peter Person]

Yep Cecil, with the rear tires off, might as well take the front tires off, and take the hood off and give her a proper cleaning and paint job don't ya think?
What the heck, give Ralph a call and he'll have it knocked down in no time ready for a ground up 1st Class restoration.


Just kidding Bill.
But it sure is hard to resist the temptation.
Peter

[Buzzard Wing]

I started out replacing a noisy bearing in the transmission and the broken bolts on the TC rock shaft bearing....
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/Bu ... 399d8d.jpg

Just can't figure how that leads to splitting the front axle!!????

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Looks like the results were good, cna you send me one of the smae bearings and bolts, if it makes one look like that.

[gitractorman]

Nope, I'm done here. I have to get her back together to push out a pile of topsoil, then get her ready for Red Power Roundup out in Hemlock, NY at the end of the month. I have only been doing little things at a time. The rear tires had calcium in them, and I was tired of seeing the rust on the rims, so that had to go. The final drive gaskets were leaking and dripping oil in my garage, so that had to be fixed. That should be it for the leaking parts on the cub, so now she's going to work.

Later,
Bill

[George Willer]

Bill,

I hope to get Rambo's rims back from sandblasting and painting in time to prepare for the Stoutsville pull at Bigdog's. I'll also be getting rid of the dreaded calcium. (I plan to replace the weight with iron).

As for the leaking final drive pans... loosen them to allow the excess to run out and then re-tighten them. It works best when on a slight grade. There's absolutely no reason for the oil level to be above the gasket, other than to create another leak. All that's necessary is for the bull gear to pick up the lube and distribute it.

[Buzzard Wing]

Nice Bill... that Cub really is a nice one. My 2nd Cub needed some work so it was just easier to do EVERYTHING.

GW I wish I had given it some thought (or heard your advise) I wouldnt have been so careful to fill it to the plug hole! Sure makes sense that you wouldnt need that much oil in there.