Paint Question

[Bob Grieb]

I painted my Cub skeleton today and it came out very good. I used the Farmall 2150 paint, a reducer and a hardner.

I have some areas that did not cover. I intend to repaint those areas in the morning. I am not a painter so I do not know what to expect when I do the touch up. Can I paint over the areas I painted today without any surface prep? Will the overcoat blend with areas already painted or will I get granular overspray deposits?

Looking for some insight

Thanks

Bob

[WKPoor]

I'm not a professional either but I'm inclined to respond as I've had some bad experiences in the past with adding extra coats the next day. Some paints won't do well after the base coat has had time too dry in. You could experience crinkling, poor adheision, or as you already figured and overspray appearance. 2150 without hardner is fairly forgiving. Can't really say with hardner how it may react.

[John68]

Finally a question I can answer!
<----- professional autobody technician/shop owner...

What type of hardener and reducer did you use?

let's assume you used an enamel reducer and an enamel hardener (like 5 star acrylic enamel wet-look hardener, or kirker wet-look acrylic enamel)...

If so, hopefully you mixed it in the following manner

8:6:1 paint:reducer:hardener

If you didn't mix in this manner, hopefully you used

8:1:1 paint:reducer:hardener


For blending into what you have already done, you should scuff up the areas that you will be blending and 4 inches around. You can do this dry with a red "scotch-brite" pad, or equivalent. don't use green, if anything, you could use gray, if you don't have red. green is too course, gray is a bit too fine, but still perfectly acceptable.

Once you have everything scuffed, you will want to mask off the rest of the tractor with anything, old blankets, preferrably norton blue sheeting, or any type of plastic or drop cloth. Stay about 16-24 inches away from the areas that you scuffed. When you go to shoot, mix the first 2 coats in this manner.

8:6:1 paint:reducer:hardener

cut back your pressure some so as not to get a lot of overspray, if using a conventional gun, cut it to about 15-20 psi, and cut back the trigger action to avoid runs. Spray your first 2 coats only where you scuffed. lay down a light mist coat before the 2 full coats. if this does not cover up the bare spots, add another coat. repeat if nessesary.

now, dump the paint out of the gun into your mixing cup, and measure. add 2-4 more parts of reducer, and add back to the gun. now spray on a coat that overlaps the scuffed area by about 4 inches, and when you get to the end of a stroke, flip the gun away from the repair so as to blend into the unscuffed paint. Now, immediately and quickly after shooting, dump the paint out of the gun, and leave about 1 ounce of material in the cup. Add 4 to 5 ounces of straight reducer to the 1 ounce of mixed paint and swirl it around good. Add 5-10 psi of pressure, and leaving the trigger cut back, use very quick, short strokes over everything dull. Stay about 8 inches away from the masking, but be sure to gently wet down any dull overspray with the paint/reducer mix. This is a very very delicate coat, and it is easy to over do it. Stay away from your masking, or remove it if nessesary, and keep the pressure up, and the paint flow down.

when done, it should have about 95% of the gloss that the rest of the tractor has, and after 16 hours, you can hand rub out any rough areas without sanding, and it will smooth any dry spots out.

good luck.

[Bob Grieb]

Hi John

First - Thanks for the response

I used a synthetic enamal reducer and hardner but the ratio was 8.2.1/2

I have several areas that I missed getting coverage ( like crevaces and cast features like bosses )

I think I understand what you are saying. Is 24 hours enough time to allow me to start the abrasion process?

Thanks

Bob

[John68]

Bob,

where did you get that ratio from?

I would wait 24 hours at the minimum before trying to scuff, especially if it's cold at night, or you are in a high humidity condition.

You must have used VOC compliant synthetics. Are you in California? That's all you can buy in CA, is VOC compliant hardeners and reducers.

I would deffinitely use a full 1 part per 8 of hardener, and use the 6 parts per 8 of reducer when you go to repair blend. This will mean you'll have to use more coats of paint, but it will be thinner and will go into places that it wouldn't go before.

If you run into any problems, post, or email me, I'm more than happy to help.

[Bob Grieb]

I live in Califonia. The reducer and hardner I used are from Sherwin Williams and I aquired it from an individual who sells to paint shops. It was difficult to find. The ratio is not based on any specified formula since none was provided with the product. I was experimenting and feared use of the hardner because I had heard it was hard on the respitory system. I did buy and use a respirator to use while spraying.

The finish on the areas painted looks good except for the areas that I missed.

Bob

[Bob Grieb]

John

Thanks - I did the touch-up this morning and it worked great. I was fearfull of thinning the paint to 8.6.1 in the past but after trying it today I will use that ration when I do fenders, seat, etc.

Thanks for your help. I am really happy with the paint job so far

Bob

[Donny M]

Bob wrote:

I am really happy with the paint job so far

Well, let's see it Please.

[Bob Grieb]

Hi Donny

The enginework is done and I am starting to put it back together. Here is what it looks like this morning

Bob

[Donny M]

Looking good, Bob I had a paint booth just like yours, very disposable
Can't wait to see it finished