Firing problem?

[scannerfreq]

Hello, I have rescued a 51 cub from a field and am getting close, or so I think, to starting her up. I've installed new wiring harness, plugs and wires, electronic ignition, battery, igniton switch, fuse and housing, coil, and voltage regulator. I took out each plug one at a time and gave it a good ground on the threads and all I get is one spark and it's usually at the end of the pull. I'll pull the starter rod for say 7 seconds and let go then and only then do I see a spark. It does the same thing on all the plugs. Am I missing something on this? The coil I bought is a 10 dollar chinese cheapie so...also it appears the governor is froze up. I can't move the throttle lever at all. Do these only move when the motor is running? Please help!! Thanks

Randall

[Bigdog]

Can you give us a little more info? Are you maintaining a 6 volt system? If so, is your coil a 6 or 12 volt one? The spark at the end sounds like you are getting only minima voltage to the coil until you release the starter rod thus taking the load off of the battery. If you have a 12 volt coil and 6 volt battery it won't produce much of a spark especially with the starter engaged.
Check the linkage attached to your throttle arm. Is it binding or rusted somewhere? You should be able to move the throttle lever any time.

By the way, welcome aboard. We'll try to help if we can just keep us informed of your progress.

[scannerfreq]

Thanks for the quick reply. It is still a 6 volt system and the coil is 6 volt but like I said it's a cheap one if that makes a difference. I'll pick up a higher quality coil. I've sanded the grounding points for the battery and wiring harness. But not the ammeter. I'll do that tomorrow. I've tried moving the lever at the governor housing and it won't budge. I've used pb blaster for weeks and tapped it with a hammer and it will not move in either direction.

[scannerfreq]

They come in both 6volt and 12volt and I made sure to get the 6 volt. oops...in regards to the electronic ignition.

[Bigdog]

ammeter doesn't need grounding

[scannerfreq]

Yes but would the two connections on the back of the ammeter have a negative effect on the ignition? Mine are kinda rusty and the gauge doesn't seem to work.

[Rudi]

Randall:

First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met

Glad that someone rescued it. I really dislike seeing Cubs waste away abandoned in fields where they lay...

I couldn't resist.. sorry for the pathetic stab at humour....

Have a read below. Especially the Best of H.L. Chauvin. Not only is it full of little troubleshooting gems, there is some pretty good humour in there too Yeah, funny stuff, not like the above stab....

As for the cheapie coil.... well even expensive coils can be DOA... if you got it at say NAPA or someplace with a decent return policy.. take it back and get a replacement. If it still don't do much, it probably isn't the coil.

The governor is probably not the problem.. it will be one that needs attention though.. but shouldn't affect this as it governs engine speed.. which assumes the engine turns over and runs.....

Remember you need 3 things to start:

1. Air
2. Spark
3. Fuel

These 3 items H.L. repeats as a mantra. If one is missing.. engine no startee... and that is a fact.

Ignore all of the electrical except the battery, battery ground, starter and the mag. Make sure that all the terminals are clean. Make sure that the mag is timed correctly... make sure that the rotor is clean, the points are clean and gapped properly, make sure the condensor is good... if it has been sitting for years.. the condensor is probably shot, the rotor is probably shot and the points are probably shot.. these are all inexpensive and should be replaced...

I am not sure on this.. Big Dog or one of the other electrical guru's can verify.. but on a mag, usually it is a cut-out and not a regulator, but then again, I am not sure if it makes a difference... that would be in the charging side of the house anyways and should not affect starting I think..

So, keep on trying, keep us posted.. try to give us a bit more info.. have a good read below.. (grab a coffee and a nice easy chair..).. print out a few pages.. (I did, took me coffee, a couple of smokes -- yes I used to have that habit.. but I gave it up, down to the shop and sat beside me Cub Ellie-mae) and -- read, look, read some more.. poke and prod... gently... read, have a coffee, look some more -- it will come to you. Trust me.. if I can do this -- ANYBODY CAN

Keep us posted and welcome again....

Ok, so here is the spiel :

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.


Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These are intended to complement the businesses who support the FarmallCub.com Website.

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . While you are at it Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet is Ken's latest addition to the series. Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are three must have's in anyone's collection.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family

[Eugene]

The coil is more than likely good. Cheap versus expensive - no difference in spark quality. 6 volt coil? But I don't think that's the problem.

Amp meter. I would wait until I got the engine running. You can check the continuity through the amp meter with a multi-meter. Is sounds (getting some fire) as if your are getting current through the amp meter.

A thought. Is the battery polarity correct for the electronic ignition?
My other thought is that you do not have the electronic ignition wired correctly.

On the govenor. If the linkage, throttle side and carburator side, if not bound up then you need to remove the govenor and find out why the throttle lever doesn't move.

Not to be offensive. Why did you install an electronic ignition?

Eugene

[Bus Driver]

Pounding on the governor lever is NOT the thing to do. They break easily. Electronic ignitions for 6 volts do exist, but I am told that they have no output if the voltage drops very much, as it might when the starter is energized. A 12 volt ignition system is not likely to function on 6 volts. It is a bit puzzling to pay the money for an electronic ignition system and then "cheap out" on the coil.

[scannerfreq]

My thinking was that the electronic ignition would be a no fuss no muss long term fix. When I installed it I read the instruction several times as not to wire it wrong. I checked and triple checked before I hooked the batt up. I know I should have bought the better coil. I think I'll try a different coil and get a hand crank so I can get a true read without voltage drop.

[Bigdog]

Yes but would the two connections on the back of the ammeter have a negative effect on the ignition? Mine are kinda rusty and the gauge doesn't seem to work.

I mis-read your post - you were mentioning cleaning grounds and then the ammeter and the 'ol brain just added the two together.

[Eugene]

Another thought. Check the voltage drop across the battery terminals when cranking the engine with the starter. Could be that the new battery is, lets say, substandard.

Is there any possibility of reinstalling the points and condensor to get the engine running?

Eugene

[scannerfreq]

OK, I'll give that a shot too, thanks!