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Carb stumper

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Tarytoons
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Location: Corydon, IN

Carb stumper

Postby Tarytoons » Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:15 am

I'm totally buffaloed here...
I've rebuilt the carb on my '48 Cub and I can't get it to quit leaking gas.
I've checked and rechecked the float..even going so far as to drop it in a pot of boiling water to check for leaks. Everything checks out ok, but when I open the valve on the sediment bowl I get a nice steady stream out the choke bore.
What am I missing here?? :? :? :?
I could sure use some of y'alls great Cub wisdom on this one. :( :(
If it's jammed, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:46 am

3 things to begin with. check for float dragging on side of carb. Check for carb gasket extending inot float chamber and blocking float movement. If none of thos, mount top half with float to carb and gently raise the float with your finger to see where flow is coming from.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!

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Don McCombs
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Zip Code: 21550
Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake

Postby Don McCombs » Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:47 am

Did you use a thread or gasket sealant on the main jet, discharge tube and float needle cage? If not, I think that may be at least part of your problem. Did you use an IH rebuild kit or an aftermarket one? Check out Carl's Carb Fixes for other ideas. It's here under "Maintenance Tips and Techniques".

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/index.html
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

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Proud Member of Maryland Chapter 39

The best teachers are those who show you where to look, but don't tell you what to see.
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Tarytoons
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 11:11 am
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Postby Tarytoons » Sat Jun 10, 2006 9:14 am

Thanks guys..
John, it hadn't occurred to me to check for flow from somewhere besides the needle. 8)
Don, what sealer would you reccommend? I never thought I would need to use sealer on any of those parts. :?:
If it's jammed, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!

User avatar
Don McCombs
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
Posts: 17489
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
Zip Code: 21550
Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake

Postby Don McCombs » Sat Jun 10, 2006 9:45 am

For the threads, I used NAPA/Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant #765-2648. For the little round gaskets, I used Permatex Form-A-Gasket 2 Non-Hardening Sealant #80015. Both claim to be fuel/gasoline resistant. No sealant goes on the bowl gasket.

So far, no leaks. :D
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

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Proud Member of Maryland Chapter 39

The best teachers are those who show you where to look, but don't tell you what to see.
A. K. Trenfor

lloyd430
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Location: Cato, Central NY

Postby lloyd430 » Sat Jun 10, 2006 11:48 am

Tarytoons-

I just ogot over the same problem

http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=13763
1947 Farmall Cub, SN 9920

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Tarytoons
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 11:11 am
Location: Corydon, IN

Postby Tarytoons » Sat Jun 10, 2006 1:09 pm

Lloyd430,
Thanks. I saw that a few days ago, and that was the first thing I looked at...after a subtle application of fine grint sandpaper in a couple choice spots the float is freely moving.
Apparently that was a least part of the problem.
Sadly, :( there is still something not right. I'm hoping it's a lack of sealer in the right places. :?
If it's jammed, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!

lloyd430
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Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2005 8:30 am
Location: Cato, Central NY

Postby lloyd430 » Sat Jun 10, 2006 2:44 pm

I my self had put 2 kits in with no good luck.... I sent it to a fellow member and he puta IH kit in---they cost twice as much put it had more seals than the ordinary kits, the kit with the tweeking of the float did it... Because Al. is so soft I don't really see how they could crack- it it did it would be very visiable--- if you think it is cracked tho try wire wheeling the out side to clean it, the dirt would stay in the crack if there was any.. Also did you try using Merlin's advice and sticking a knife in the barrel part of the brass hinge to open it up a little on the pin....that worked good too... I actually used a file to "sand" down the float and the casting, a small jewlers file.
1947 Farmall Cub, SN 9920

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Tarytoons
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 11:11 am
Location: Corydon, IN

Postby Tarytoons » Sat Jun 10, 2006 3:23 pm

I'll try that with the jeweler's file and the knife to open the barrel....
that and the sealer will hopefully do the trick. :wink:
If it's jammed, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!

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Tarytoons
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Posts: 19
Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 11:11 am
Location: Corydon, IN

Postby Tarytoons » Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:50 am

It was so simple I overlooked the obvious....
The float was misadjusted. It was adjusted too high so the needle wasn't closing all the way. Re-adjusted and now it works beautifully...I think.
Tried to start it and the starter grunted once and quit. &#$%$@#!!!!! :evil:
Oh well, that's why I have the battery charger. :lol:
If it's jammed, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway!


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