Cub 22 mower

[Boss Hog]

1st This has got to be the best web site in the world. Hats off to you all!!

Now I need a little help. I have finally got a model 22 mower in opperating shape, after buying 4 mowers a set of blades, pitman rod, belt, pully and assorted other small parts. But I have never used a mower of this type. Is there any thing in particular that I need to watch for or do before and while opperating this mower.
I know this may be a dumb question , but I am a little leary of useing it for the 1st time.
Thanks a bunch

[Rudi]

David:

First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met

To answer your question, the most definitive word on the Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower would be the IH Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower Operator's Manual and Setup Instructions

Other members will probably have some tips to add, such as if it don't feel right.. don't do it... and little tricks to operating the mower.. but is you read the manual you will be miles ahead..

Hope that helps



Ok, so here is the spiel :

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.


Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These are intended to complement the businesses who support FarmallCub.com Website.

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are two must have's in anyone's collection.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family

[Donny M]

David,

The main thing is to stay safe. Keep all body parts away from the mower when in use Run the mower only fast enough to cut nicely, and not shake your teeth out, about half throttle. Also be very careful when lifting the mower. The cutter works just as well for fingers as it does for grass

[Bob Roraback]

David, Be sure to set the mower with a little Lead. What this means is if you draw an imaginary line perpendicular to the tractor, the outer edge of the mower should be about an inch ahead of the line. This is to compensate for the drag of the mower when it is in the grass. I find that mine mows better in second gear at about half throttle as Donnie suggested. Start out in short grass until you become more familiar with it. Tha most important thing is to keep it sharp! Good Luck, Bob

[Dan England]

Donny has mentioned this but it is so important that I want to mention it again. When you lift the cutter bar (perhaps you are through for the day) to its upright position, be very, very careful not to place fingers between the guards. The knives may drop due to the upright position of the bar and they will slice through fingers in a fraction of a second. An easy mistake to make but with very bad, permanent results. The sickle mower is sometimes rated as the most dangerous of all Cub implements. Be safe. Dan

[Bob Roraback]

Dan is right, I have made it a habit from the beginning to only pick up the mower by the outer shoe. Real important!

[Bob Roraback]

David, Also keep an eye on where the draglink mounts to the tractor. I have had this loosen up on me. Bob

[gitractorman]

Dave,
Welcome to the forum,

I also just finished restoring a 22 mower and have used it a couple of times now. Everything these guys have said is extremely important. Another thing that I have found is the mounting bolts need to be the correct, cone shaped bolts, like the ones in the drawbar mounting. If you don't have them, get some, and tighten them often!

I didn't have the correct ones in the front mounting, and cranked some bolts down as tight as I could, and the mower vibrated and creeped right up and out of them. I'm 35yrs old, 6'4 and 235 pounds, and work out a bit. I tightened the bolts with a 1/2" drive breaker bar. Let me tell you, those bolts were VERY tight, and the thing still came loose. Luckily, I saw it happen, as suprised as I was, and was able to turn everything off with no more damage than a little scraped paint.

Another thing to remember, if you need to stop while mowing, Cubs like to creep a little. So, if you're coming up to a tree or obsticle, make sure to plan far enough ahead to stop or turn. It takes a little getting used to mowing with something hanging 5' off to the right of the tractor.

Best of luck,
gitractorman

[Rick Prentice]

Hi Dave. Gitractorman touched on it a little, but make sure you're familiar with the area you want to mow. Walk it to make sure there isn't some hidden obsticles, like short stumps or wire fencing. You can imagine what would happen if you hit something by surprise, and didn't stop in time, way out at the end . Then like the others have stated, keep your fingers clear when lifting to transport, the blades can move as you're lifting it up into place, Rick

[KETCHAM]

I LOVE MY CUB-22 MOWER.L'M GETTING SOME NEW BLADES ASAP,MINE ARE REAL OLD.LIKE ALL THESE GUYS SAY KEEP CLEAR OF THIS BLADE. I DON'T LET ANYONE IN THE AREA WHEN I USE MINE.PS IT DOES A GREAT JOB ON TALL GRASS AND DRAIN DITCHES I GET TO USE ON BOTH!!!! KETCHAM

[Bus Driver]

When using a sickle mower, never dismount the tractor unless the engine is stopped, and the tractor is parked so it will not roll, AND the PTO lever is moved to the unengaged position. Many tractors will turn the PTO, if engaged, if the tractor rolls even if the transmission is in neutral.
That mower will instantly amputate any body part that fits between the guards. Case in point: Many years ago, a man was mowing with a horse drawn sickle mower. He stopped the horses, did not disengage the drive. Dismounted and walked in front of the mower. Something spooked the horses and the mower cut off both his feet just above the ankles. Tie your dog while mowing. Keep children away!

[Dan England]

Bus Driver: When I was growing up in south Missouri during the 1940's, it was very common to see a three-legged dog at a farmhouse. Unless they were tied, the dogs would be present during mowing of hay. Lots of rabbits, rats, and quail to chase as they were flushed by the mower. Probably many dogs died from loss of blood or from infection, but a surprising number healed and lived to old age. It was always scary to see the dogs dart in front of the mower. Dan

[Charles (49) Mo]

Sooner or later you will encounter a grass clog on the cutter bar. Just stop, stop mow, back up a few feet with the bar down. That usually clears most of the clog. If still clogged, lift the blade with the hydraulics and slowly run the blade. Most jams will shake off the bar. If you ever hand remove anything do it safely with everything off...

[John68]

The best information has already been given, but just to add to it a bit...

someoen already mentioned the word "sharp."

that is very important! Another important thing is "tight." make sure the pitman strap cups are tight to the ball on the knife bar. you may have to add some metal to the clamp to get it tight, but it is important that it doesnt chatter.

Buy all new knives, rock guards, wear plates, and hold downs. Make sure the hold down clamps are snug to the knives to keep the knives against the rock guards. Rock guards are maleable metal, so it might be nessesary to bend a few of them up to get them tight to the blades.

Now, what no one mentioned, and a very important adjustment is the "knife register." The best way to explain knife register is it is the timing of the knives in phase with the position of the pitman cam. When the pitman arm is full extended, the knives should line up exactly with the rock guards. If they don't, you have to extend the main bar until they do. Having it in time is as important as having the blades sharp, because if they aren't making the correct stroke against the rock guards, they aren't going to cut very well at all.

When everything is all said and done, and you go to cut, listen to the mower. It should drag the engine down slightly at idle when you engage it. If it drags it down too far, then you need to keep it lubricated well until the new parts wear in. The mower should sound clean, with a gentle wisping noise and no chatter. When it is engaged in grass, it shoudl be wisper quiet, and even sounding. If you hear lots of chatter, shake everything down until you find the source of the chatter. Having a loose part of a sickle bar mower can be dangerous, and very hard on the tractor. I have rattled things loose from too much play and wear. I even popped a headlight from the vribration.

It is also very important to oil the heck out of the knives and guards after every day of cutting. Leaving the grass and moisture on it will dull it faster than if you were constantly using it.

At one time, my cub 22 sickle was used to mow 56 acres of hay every year, and do all the trimming around the fences and farm. Once you start using the sickle bar mower, you will wish the grass grew faster so you can use it more!

[Boss Hog]

Thanks guys I feel a lot better about mowing for the first time with my mower now.
GREAT INFO from every one
bought another cub today wife didn't fuss much
David