wobbly distributor cam?

[bripam]

1974 cub
My gap between the points varies greatly! If I adjust points to 0.020in at #1, then #3 doesn't even open and #4, #2 are MUCH larger gap than 0.020!

I have done several things attempting to improve poor running under load including replacing points, condensor, rotor.

Has been running very poorly and I noticed today that it is very sensitive to point gap ... must have been gapping at different lobes which was causing large changes to points.

Is this cam likely to be bent?
What is required to get the distributor off? ... Does the coil and/or governor need to be removed also?

Thank you all for your help, I have referred to the forum many times!

[Bigdog]

Most likely the distrubutor shaft bushing is shot allowing the shaft to move sideways. I wouldn't think it would be bent. If you loosen the distributor clamp bolts you should be able to pull it.

[bripam]

Thanks Bigdog, I will try to get the distributor off to check the shaft and bushing.

It doesn't seem to have too much slop, rather it seems to rotate off axis as if bent (or entire cam is on an angle).

[Bigdog]

If you can see it wobble when you crank it over it is probably bent. I just don't know how it would get bent.

[cowboy]

Bigdog P.O.'s can do anything. I can imagine somone wraping a chain around the engine to lift it out with a loader getting ovet the dist cap busting it having it catch the end ot the shaft bending it I can't belive some of the "fixes" on mine

Billy

[brian kov]

I COULD DEFINATELY PICTURE THAT HAPPENING

[bripam]

The distributor shaft seems to be the problem ... is this easy to dissassemble from the distributor gear (and housing)?

Do I have any chance for straightening the shaft without removing it from the housing?

[Eugene]

On most distributors there is a pin holding the gear on the bottom of the distributor to the shaft. You need to remove the pin. Then slide the gear off the shaft. There will be several screws holding the breaker plate (inside the distributor) to the distributor body and a bolt and insulator for the connection to the points/condensor. Remove the screws and bolt. At this point you should be able to pull shaft and mechanical advance out of the top of the distributor body.

The distributor is fairly straight forward. The only problem is going to be removing the pin. You might be able to drive out the pin with a small punch. Most likely you will need to drill the head of the pin off.

There is no way of striaghtening the shaft without removing it from the body.

[bripam]

Thanks, I have the shaft straightened

Any notes on lubrication, is just a couple strokes through the zerk all that is needed with some grease on the springs and counterweights?

[Eugene]

Way to go. That was fast.

After disassemble I oil the bushings, pivots and spring ends with 30 wt. Reassemble then grease the zerk.

There is a wick in the center of the shaft where the rotor mounts. Put 3 or 4 drops of 30 wt oil on the wick - hold the distributor upright - let soak in for a few minutes. This will lubricate the mechanical advance pivot. Work the advance back and forth a time or two to spread the oil and check it's action.

Eugene

[Daniel H.]

One thing I noticed on mine, was that the long bushing for the distributor shaft doesn't have a hole for the grease to pass through. There is a zerk in the side of the casting. How does it get lubrication?

[George Willer]

Daniel,

That bushing is most likely sintered bronze. They're made from bronze particles fused together under heat and pressure but remain porous. The lube passes through much the same as the lube does through the porous graphite TOB.

During manufacture they are usually pre-lubed and require no further attention.

[bripam]

It MOWS!
Brush beware!

Now points all gap to 0.020!

Thanks for the advice, I finally got it to work! After I get this 3 foot grass mown, I look forward to mowing in 2nd!