Removel of left brake pedal

[Bob Grieb]

I want to remove the floorboard on the 47 Cub to clean and paint it. I was able to remove all of the bolts and was doing fine until I attemp ted to remove the left brake pedal. I could not budge the set screw so after a few attempts the set screw snapped of. Next I tried and easy-out and it snapped. Then I ground the easy-out out of the hole. The shaft appears to be hardned so I drilled the set screw out as best I could but I still cannot get the pedal to move off the shaft. I am afraid to pound too much on the pedal for fear of cracking the casting. I am thinking of grinding the pedal off of the shaft and buying a replacement pedal. I could cut the shaft but that seems like a less appropriate approach.

Any ideas????

[Rob in NH]

if you think you have all of the set screw out try some penetrating fluid and keep working it back and forth. thats how i got mine off. you could also try using some heat on it.

[Bob Grieb]

I'm not positive about having all of the set screw out but I have been using penetrant oils and heat with no sucess. I can't even get the pedal to move on the shaft
Thanks
Bob

[Donny M]

Bob,

That set screw comes to a point; the point penetrates a dimple on the shaft. Before you go any further make sure the set screw is completely out.
Do not under any circumstances pound on the shaft, this will only mushroom the shaft and make matters worse.
Once you're sure the set screw is out heat the brake pedal collar to a cherry red, it should then show some kind of movement.
To ensure the set screw is out measure the depth of the tapped hole.

Next to the fan pulley the brake pedals are the hardest things to get off.

Keep at it, you will win

[Bob Grieb]

I can see the dimple on the shaft and I can not longer drill so I assume I have remved the set screw. I had tried heating the pedal but not to a cherry red. I will try that in the morning. It is the roughest removal I have encountered since I started the disassembly process. As it is, I will have to have the set screw hole plug welded and retapped as I have damaged the threads (Big Time)

Thanks for your input. I will let you know the outcome.

Bob

[Daniel H.]

Here is a picture of the pedal with the set screw. This will give you an idea of just how long the set screw is. It goes into the shaft deeper than you might think.




Thanks to TM tractor for the image.

[Buzzard Wing]

Donny knows! And so do I, done 4 brake pedals to date and every one put up a good battle!

I think what happens is that they get tightned down real well and that mushrooms the shaft and or the pedal collar... not to mention is it a fairly tight fit so it rusts up really tight. If you can twist the shaft and hold the pedal stationary (block of wood against the platform) you may be able to get it a bit free. Careful not to bend/break the tab.

Loads of Kroil if you have it or PB Blaster will help, so will patience,. Always good to have another project that you can work on when that one frustrates ya too much.

Must have thought I was going to need one, cause I bought a set of pedals and rods on ebay... so I have spares if you get in a real jam.

[Bob Grieb]

There are two things I did not know when I started to remove the pedals;

1) how difficult the job would be
2) How deep the set screw was

Thanks for the input. Also it is good to know there are spares available if I can't get this one removed satisfactorly

I can't find kroil but I did find PB Blaster

Thanks again for the information/help

Bob

[Ralph]

Bob
if it comes to it cut the shaft and remove it i have several of the left pedals and shafts ( i think i have 4 sets)

what ever you do dont damage your torque tube

I have removed about 10 of them some ya save and some ya don't

let me know if you need one
Thanks Ralph

[George Willer]

Bob
if it comes to it cut the shaft and remove it i have several of the left pedals and shafts ( i think i have 4 sets)

what ever you do dont damage your torque tube

I have removed about 10 of them some ya save and some ya don't

let me know if you need one
Thanks Ralph

That was my thought, Ralph... there must be a lot of salvaged ones available. Sometimes the shaft gets sacrificed and sometimes it's the pedal, but most times folks simply give up and leave it together.

While the parts are together, it's still possible to rotate the platform around the stubborn shaft for easier access to the under side.

[Bob Grieb]

I can't give up as I need to do some restoration of the floor itself. I will make one more attempt in the morning to heat the collar and if that does not work I will cut the shaft. I have an early 1947 Cub but I assume the shaft and pedals are standard for all of them

Bob

[Bob Grieb]

What a job???? I spent a good 8 hours trying to get that pedal free. No luck. I have never had so much effort put forth with so little results. I ended up cutting the shaft a few hours ago. Even though I finally got the pedal collar to turn freely on the shaft I could not get it to come off. I even ground a 'V" where the collar and shaft intesect in case there was "musrooming". Still no luck. I think if I do this again I will cut the shaft if it doesn't separate in the first half hour.

Thanks for all of the ideas.

Bob

[Buzzard Wing]

On the bright side.... the hardest parts to get off a Cub seems to be anything associated with the platform, so if you have the seat post and battery box off you are a bit ahead of the game!

The right pedal on my 50 was a problem somewhere along the line because it was bolted to the platform. The good thing about that is that I was able to get the pedal free in a vice instead of on the platform. I got it welded back on and it looks good.

[Bob Grieb]

I've got the platform in the electrolysis tank. What a chore it was getting it there!!

Thanks to everyone for their input

Bob

[dyt4000]

Don't feel bad Bob. I bought a used floorpan and when I got it, the brake pedal was still attached with no sign of the set screw.