Preparation For Paint

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Bob Grieb
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Preparation For Paint

Postby Bob Grieb » Fri May 12, 2006 9:37 pm

I am looking for opinions as I have never restored a tractor nor been to a Cub tractor show - I am a novice so this question may sound silly.

I have stripped the fenders using the electrolysis process and I find evidence of pitting on the surface of the fenders. I am not inclined to fill these pits with putty prior to prime and paint.

I am looking for input as to what is considered appropriate in a restoration process. I am not looking to win a prize for best in show I just want something that looks nice and can take to a parade. Filling pits seems to be an overkill.

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Postby Bigdog » Fri May 12, 2006 9:50 pm

Bob - it all depends on what you want. If you're not looking for a show tractor then all the labor and prep may not be justified. There are some build-primers that will fill some pitting and can be sanded reasonably smooth. Of course, on the other hand, while you have it apart it might be worth the extra work just to keep from saying "Boy! I wish I had done that when I was working on it before!"
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Re: Preparation For Paint

Postby George Willer » Fri May 12, 2006 10:45 pm

Bob Grieb wrote:I am looking for input as to what is considered appropriate in a restoration process. I am not looking to win a prize for best in show I just want something that looks nice and can take to a parade. Filling pits seems to be an overkill.


Bob,

What's appropriate is whatever pleases the owner... there no firm rules, except for one: Any tractor show that presumes to compare one man's tractor to another will be short lived. Most of us will shun competition of any kind, except for maybe pulling. Every man's tractor stands on its' own merits and is welcome at most shows for others to enjoy.

This is what separates the tractor hobby from the snobbish car shows.
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Bob Grieb
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Postby Bob Grieb » Fri May 12, 2006 10:55 pm

George

Thanks for your response. Ihave found the the people involved in tractors are very helpfull and not judgemental. I joined the tractor museum in Vista, Ca and have never met a nicer bunch of people. I like your point about "whatever suits the owner"

I also liked Bigdogs answer about not doing it now and being sorry later.

Bob

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Postby technova » Mon May 15, 2006 10:16 am

As a paint & body technician I can tell you it's not going to take much time or work to fill the pits. Urethane primer-surfacer may fill some but I would hit them with a skim coat of body filler first. If you put it on thin it won't take long to sand it. An hour or two goes a LONG way. If you are just dealing with pits, the skill level for sanding is real low. If you are smotthing dents it will take a little more practice.
I have never seen anyone regret doing a little nicer job on a car or tractor. I would at least do the areas that are highly viible while driving or that show when someone walks by.

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Postby LARRY BALL » Mon May 15, 2006 10:35 am

BOB,
BIGDOG IS RIGHT, IT DEPENDS ON WHAT "YOU" WANT YOUR TRACTOR TO LOOK LIKE. HOWEVER, TECHNOVA MAY SOME GOOD POINTS. METAL PREPARATION IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT OF HAVING JUST A PAINT JOB AND HAVING A NICE PAINT JOB. IF THE SHEET METAL IS NOT PREPARED, MEANING DENTS, DINGS, PITS, RUST AND ETC. REPAIRED ,SANDED, BODY AND PUTTY FILLERS APPLIED. THEN NO PAINT IN THE WORLD WILL COVER THOSE FLAWS. JUST MY TWO CENTS.

SOMEDAYS I GET BRAINSTORMS 8) SOMEDAYS JUST CLOUDS :cry: :cry:
LARRY BALL

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Postby Bob Grieb » Mon May 15, 2006 10:39 am

Thanks for the input. I have been filling the outside of the fenders with a glazing and sanding it smooth. I have ignored the inside surface which has some pitting from corosion.

Another qusetion I keep running thru my mind is how to paint the tractor. As I have gone thru the disassembly process I have stripped the paint and primered all the details like the fenders. seat, hood etc.
The question is do I final paint these details and assemble after the paint sets or do I assembel the primered parts and final coat after the assemly process.

This sounds like a stupid question but this is my first effort at a trator restoration. Any input will be appreciated
Thanks

Bob

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Postby bigdaddy » Mon May 15, 2006 11:05 am

Hey Bob

I just went through the same process. We took everything off without splitting the tractor. We Polycoated the cast and the parts that were hung. When it cured for a few days we reattached all the parts that will stay red and retouched up any nicks or "fish eye". We powder coated the sheet metal and it looks beautiful. I'll post before and after pictures soon.

However, I had some pitting where rust had been and after sandblasting I debated about filling it in and making it smooth. But Bigdag and GW are correct it's what you want. I wanted to show how this tractor really looks with just lipstick and no pancake. I left the pitting. Just like James Bonds' women who all had a physical imperfection (at least in the books) I wanted that look.


Good Luck

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Postby LARRY BALL » Mon May 15, 2006 11:11 am

BOB,
IF YOUR GOING TO SPRAY PAINT THE TRACTOR THEN ITEMS SUCH AS FENDERS,SEAT FRAMES HOOD, HOOD SUPPORTS, STEERING SHAFT, TIE RODS, BATTERY BOX, ETC. ALL BOLT ON STUFF NEEDS TO BE PAINTED SEPERATE OF THE TRACTOR DRIVE TRAIN. SIMPLY BECAUSE THERE ISN'T ROOM FOR ALL THE AWKWARD ANGLES YOU NEED TO PUT A SPRAY GUN IN TO GET A GOOD AND EVEN COVERAGE OF PAINT. FIND A GOOD AREA AND FABRICATE SOME STOUT HANGERS FOR YOUR ASSESSORIES THAT NEED PAINT. HANG'EM UP AND BE AWARE OF OVERSPRAY, VENTILATION, AND DUST. GOOD LUCK. LETS SEE SOME PICTURES :!:

SOMEDAYS I GET BRAINSTORMS 8) SOMEDAYS JUST CLOUDS :roll:
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Postby Davesaver » Mon May 15, 2006 12:08 pm

Bob,

If you are applying glazing compound over bare metal check to make sure it is rated to be used on bare metal. Most glazing compounds unless catylized are meant to be applied over a primered surface. It is basically a thick spreadable primer. As Technova suggested body filler as a skim coat would be the reccomended application on bare metal. If they are very small again as Technova suggested a primer surfacer can be used you will want to watch the overall thickness of your primer and keep it sanded down to where your only filling the depressions. One method to help prevent over priming is to dust a light coat of contrasting lacquer spray primer over the fender etc. and then lightly sand it off. The depressions and pits will still show color where you still need to fill. Again this would be for very small pits. That would also help as to where to use your glazing as well.

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Bob Grieb
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Postby Bob Grieb » Mon May 15, 2006 6:39 pm

Thanks to all of you for your input. I always appreciate the feedback. I planned on painting the details and assemblying them after I painted the cast surfaces but I was not sure that was the beat approach. I am not using a true glazing material and it can be applied on the metal surface. I am keeping the filling to a minimum and letting some of the effects of the aging process show.

The painting is going to be a new experience as well. I purchased the IH enamal from Case as well as the additives Thinner and accelerator).

Bob

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Postby Buzzard Wing » Tue May 16, 2006 6:41 am

I like to paint the parts off the tractor. Lots better coverage and less overspray to deal with.

IH rattle can paint is suprisingly good.
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Bob Grieb
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Postby Bob Grieb » Tue May 16, 2006 8:09 am

In addition to the bulk paint I purchased four cans of the rattle can paint from the Case dealer. I am not sure how the two will match but my thought was that I would use the rattle cans for touch-up.

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Postby Bob Grieb » Mon May 22, 2006 7:27 pm

I have another silly question that keeps running through my mind and I am about to start the painting process.

I think it makes sense to paint the casting and the details separately then attach the fenders, seat, hood etc later. The question is how do you paint the attaching hardware. Do you paint the bold heads prior to assembly or do you paint them after you have attached the detail parts.

I know it sounds like a silly question but it keeps bugging me.

Thanks
Bob


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