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Got the Wheels off!

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Peter Person
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Got the Wheels off!

Postby Peter Person » Mon Apr 24, 2006 4:39 pm

Took a bold step and removed the wheels on Sunday. The tractor seems pretty stationary. Put wedges up front as recommended.
Had the younger son help me out (he had a blast and even had some ideas), the older one just wanted to be in the picture. I hope the wheels can be salvaged, the valve stem area is kinda nasty.
Looking forward to having new sneakers on the Cub(as yet un-named)
I saw a comment in another thread about the wheels being galvanized from the factory. They don't appear to be, just a little surface rust where the paint? wore off. I'm open to suggestions on how best to handle the wheels before I put the new tubes and tires on.
Thanks,
Peter
http://photos.cubfest.com/displayimage.php?pos=-2087
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http://photos.cubfest.com/displayimage.php?pos=-2085
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade

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Buzzard Wing
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Mon Apr 24, 2006 6:05 pm

Peter, Too bad we couldn't have hooked up when you visited the Ocean State.

Nice to have the youngsters involved in the project, lots of things they see and learn with a tractor translate well into useful lessons later in life. One is that it ain't so easy getting 40 year old tires unseated!

That rim does look a bit rough, but it could be OK.

I just pulled my tires off the rims, but I had help from someone who has been around a bit. Here is how we did it.... Removed the valve from the tube stem, I drove the front wheel of my F250 onto the tire just inside the rim and waited for it to break free, took a little while for the weight to free it up. Once it is loose, the rest of the bead comes free fairly easily. The harder part is getting the tire off. We used two giant crow bars and one iron bar with a flat end. You need to get one spot over the edge of the rim.... and hold it there while you use another (preferably pretty flat and strong) to lift a spot not too far away from the one you are holding. You can then pull the second 'spoon' free and do it again further down, till you get the whole bead on the other side. It can sure be a difficult task, but my helper (mentor!) had done it enough times that it wasn't too bad. You should be able to get a good idea of the strength of the rim once the tire and tube are off.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/Bu ... de3507.jpg
Probably a bit too dangerous to have the boys involved directly.

I have the rims and wheel centers out to be sandblasted. They are just too much to do with a wire brush! I will prime them with a brush and then probably use rustoleum silver on the rims like I did on the yeller tractor:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/Bu ... b2ffa5.jpg


If you find that the rims are no good, TM has them for about $85. they are not excactly the same, they use a carraige bolt instead of the square head bolt. I am headed down that way the 1st of June and could pick em up if you need.
http://www.tmtractor.com/wh/724fp.htm

Good luck!
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)

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Postby jostev » Mon Apr 24, 2006 7:38 pm

That's not too bad, mine are much much worse, but they hold air fine, sooo i don't care too much, it isn't a show tractor.... might weld something on it.....

by the way, what part of Conn are you from :?: we got a bunch of family down there....

Johnny

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Peter Person
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Postby Peter Person » Mon Apr 24, 2006 9:23 pm

Update;
Cut through one side of the tire this evening and used bolt cutters to get through the bead. The bead freed up fairly easily from the rim.
The inside of the rim is pretty clean, a little surface scale here and there. The valve stem hole is in good shape. Now for the other wheel, but first I need to rest up.
I think I'll let a tire shop put the new sneakers on though. Question, they probably need the wheel centers to put the new tires on right? If so, off come the wheel weights-oooff, keep the toes out of the way.
Yep Larry-too bad, just not enough time. You got my pm about the Cub on RT 101 right?
Johnny, northeastern part of the state-Stafford.
That's all for now.
Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade

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Postby Bigdog » Mon Apr 24, 2006 9:27 pm

They should be able to mount the tires without the wheel centers
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Mon Apr 24, 2006 11:50 pm

Yep I did see that in your post.... if I wasn't so busy with getting the red one puffed out I would take a ride and look at it. But then again I could be too easily tempted looking at another Cub. I have had this one for almost a year and only been up and down the driveway with it. Did ya notice a price??

I should get my new rear tires any day now, but need the rims back before I can do much with them.

Putting the rear tires back on should be lots easier than getting them off. I do know the front ones are a bit of a trick, especially when you are trying to be cautious with the new paint.

Big Dog is right (as always) you can leave the the weights and centers on the tractor. You may want to look at the holes to make sure they are round, but other than that you should be fine: http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/Bu ... f4c966.jpg

AND.... I did notice the AERO-KROIL in the photo! Great stuff eh??
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)

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Postby Patbretagne » Tue Apr 25, 2006 12:31 am

Bigdog wrote:They should be able to mount the tires without the wheel centers

Won't they need them to hold the whole in the machine that turns to mount the tyre? Unless of course they still do it with tyre levers as Buzzard suggests??
Pat

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Postby Rick Prentice » Tue Apr 25, 2006 2:21 am

Three of the major tire shops in NW Ohio that deal mainly in big tractor tires(Tire Master, The Anderson's, and Spec's Tire) still do things the old fashioned way. They lay the tire flat on the floor, use their big sledge type hammer with a wide wedge on one end, and start swinging away all around the bead till the tire breaks loose. Then they use the big spoons to remove the tire. They clean everything up with wire wheels on grinders, and re-mount the new tires, flat on the floor. They told me it would take too much room for a machine big enough and then too heavy to lift the tire on and off the machine. If you ever watch these experts, they're lightning fast at what they do, and usually young muscle bound guys that enjoy the challenge.
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Postby freebird » Tue Apr 25, 2006 7:45 am

whew, glad they don't need the centers as the wife is dropping my rims and tires off today to be mounted.
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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:18 am

Some of the shops in our area have a rig that looks like a large slide hammer with a wide bit on the end for breaking loose large tires. guess it's for people that can't hit where they are looking with a sledge.
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Postby Bigdog » Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:31 am

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:Some of the shops in our area have a rig that looks like a large slide hammer with a wide bit on the end for breaking loose large tires. guess it's for people that can't hit where they are looking with a sledge.


Which would be many of us! :)
Bigdog
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Postby George Willer » Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:17 am

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:Some of the shops in our area have a rig that looks like a large slide hammer with a wide bit on the end for breaking loose large tires. guess it's for people that can't hit where they are looking with a sledge.


That's what I was using to try to break the beads on a pair of 9N rear wheels I wanted to save. (mine is shop built with a 22# sliding weight) They were nice looking matched tires. I still managed to punch through a sidewall after maybe 200 whacks. :( That's when I called Junior Tucker and ordered a new pair of mounted tires and rims. 8)
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Peter Person
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Postby Peter Person » Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:30 am

I'll have the tires off, but it sounds like getting the new tires back on won't be a picnic for even the most talented individual. What have others done to prevent damage to their newly painted rims? I've seen others here who get there wheels powder-coated, something I'm leaning toward, but where have you had them done?, all the way 'down' to Rustoleum 'rattle can' silver. I want to get them on in time for CubFest 2006!
Thanks,
Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade

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Postby freebird » Tue Apr 25, 2006 10:41 am

My fronts went on with no scratches or marks. If I have any on the rears, I will just mask off that area and touch it up. After that..one good picture to post and then she can get as dirty as I need her to.
Tell the truth, there's less to remember!

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Postby Eugene » Tue Apr 25, 2006 12:57 pm

Mounting rear tractor tires is not a big or difficult job. Mount the rim on the tractor. Then mount the tire. It's much easier than having the rim laying flat on the floor.

My bead breaker. Two flat pry bars. Drive one flat pry bar in between the rim and the tire - first one is usually the toughest. Drive the second pry bar about 2 inches from the first. Twist the pry bars sideways. Continue working around the rim.

Dish washing soap and a little water for a lubricant.

Eugene


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