electrical

[dw]

Can anyone explaine to me the propper wirring for a 12volt battery ingnition on a cub. I have a magneto, and an alternator. There is no external coil such as an auto type like i have seen on other cubs rigged out. I don't think you need it. I have a one wire alternator. The wire goes from the alt. to an amp gauge, and then to the starter, and back to the battery. Is this correct??? The reason i am asking is because the battery will eventually run down and is not charging. But when you pull the hot lead off the bat. while engine is running it does not die( just checking to see if the problem is indeed the alt). But it really shouldn't die because it is really running off the magneto. PLEASE HELP..

[Rudi]

dw:

Best I can do is what follows.

The electrical diagrams in the GSS-1411 are about the best, and then there are Bob Melvilles schematics... but those are a different story...

Do check out the Best of HL Chauvin... he does help in his own way and you WILL smile as you go about it... the other stuff is pretty darn helpful as well.

BD and some of the other electrical guru's should be along shortly....



First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met

Ok, so here is the spiel :

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.


Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These are intended to complement the businesses who support FarmallCub.com Website.

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are two must have's in anyone's collection.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family

[Eugene]

DW:

Single wire goes from the alternator to the amp gauge then from the amp gauge to the post on the starter. The starter cable is the feed from the starter back to the battery when charging. If the alternator is working you should see the amp gauge move when charging.

Multimeter set on DC voltage. Take a voltage reading on the battery before starting the tractor - everything off (lights). Start the engine then rev the engine up to full speed and hold there for a few seconds then idle back down. Check the voltage on the battery again. The voltage reading will be higher (13 to 16 V) if the alternator is working. If not you have a problem.

Engine not running. Battery charged. Disconnect the wire from the back of the alternator. Check for a voltage reading from the wire to ground. Should be the battery voltage. If battery voltage, it's an alternator problem. You can use a test light. If the test light lights it's the alternator.

If no voltage at the wire on the alternator you have a broken wire, bad connection, or burnt out amp gauge.

Speaking of amp gauge. Does your Cub have an original IH amp gauge that reads 20 amps max.? A 12 volt alternator will put out from 36 amps to 60 amps or more and can/will burn out the amp gauge.

Eugene