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Valve Grinding Question

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TOOLMAN
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Valve Grinding Question

Postby TOOLMAN » Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:31 pm

Can the valves be ground form up top with the head removed with out having to take the valves out of the engine?
Just curious I was wondering if I were to grind them in place could I get a better seat?
Thanks
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Postby Bigdog » Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:36 pm

Unless you see ridges or pitting, I'd just lap the valves and go ahead with assembly.
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If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

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Postby TOOLMAN » Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:40 pm

BD
Thats what I ment should I have lapped them before closing her up?
also can I open it back up and use the same gasket or do I need A new one I copper coated the one on there now
Thanks
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Postby Donny M » Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:45 pm

Tony,

Valve grinding compound is very detrimental to an engine if left inside. If you take the head off I would replace the gasket. Cheap enough insurance.
Mr. GW wrote a great "How To" for lapping the valves, it's on Rudi's site.
8)

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Postby Eugene » Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:36 pm

Since you have the head back on. Do a dry compression test then a wet compression test before you remove the head again. You may luck out.

If there is no significant difference between the two tests and all cylinders are close in PSI and the PSI readings in the 100 to 110 range - I wouldn't lap the valves. My guess is that you will need to lap the valves. Another head gasket.

Not sure what you mean by removing the valves from the engine. You will need to remove the valve springs, caps and keepers on each valve to accomplish the lapping. That is to say you will need to remove the valves. Lapping valves can be accomplished with the engine still in the tractor.

Eugene

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Postby TOOLMAN » Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:52 pm

Gene
Can you tell me the right way to do a compression test and how do I do a wet test pour a little gas into each cylinder?
And I want the wet test results correct?
Thanks
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Postby Bigdog » Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:57 pm

Tony - use oil for the wet test, not gas. First do the test dry, then re-run it wet. If there is a low reading on a cylinder and it improves significantly with the wet test, the rings are likely worn, if the low reading does not change or change very much, it is due to poor valve seating.
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Postby TOOLMAN » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:00 pm

OK
So can you tell me the right way to do the compression test
Should I remove all the plugs and crank the engine over and take cylinder pressures one at a time?
Or leave the other spark plugs in and only remove the one from the cylinder being tested?
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Postby Bigdog » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:02 pm

plugs out, use the starter to crank the engine about 6 - 7 revs.
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Postby TOOLMAN » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:04 pm

Got It
Thanks
You know I will rip it apart again a do this
Its the nature of my beast
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Postby Eugene » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:48 pm

Toolman:

Post back with the results of the compression tests.

Have you done any work (rebuild procedures) on the engine - rings or bearings?

Eugene

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Postby TOOLMAN » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:53 pm

No
I had the head off because it had a crack it it
The tractor ran good little smoke but I thought I clear that up.
The cylinders looked great no scaring at all
the valves looked oK too
But when I buttoned down the head
I did dry compression test
Got 100 103 82 101 about
The # 3 was lil low I think it might be the valves on that cylinder I will open it up and see
Is there any trick to getting the holding clips off of the valves when I do this?
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Postby beaconlight » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:58 pm

Look in
rudies site you will find it and many interesting things and how to do them. I don't remember exactly where it is in here.

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/index.html

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Postby Eugene » Wed Mar 15, 2006 9:08 pm

Do the dry and wet compression tests again. This will tell you if the low compression cylinder has a ring problem or a valve problem.

You need a valve spring compressor to remove the retainers. Once you get the spring compressed - rap on the side of the spring cap to release the retainers.

Compression on 3 cylinders is good. The fourth is a bit weak but not terrible.

If this were my tractor and I would just use it as is for a while to see what happens. Put a little Seafoam in the fuel to loosen up the rings.


Eugene

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Postby Bob McCarty » Wed Mar 15, 2006 9:19 pm

From experience: when you're removing the springs and keepers, pack some rags around the bottom, otherwise you may be removing the oil pan to retrieve one of the keeper halves.

Bob


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