Steering Knuckle Arm Removal

[Lance Leitzel]

George - That is a great idea and could well be next on my list of to do's if another week in the tank doesn't make the axle want to conform to my wishes. What type of metal rods did you use to push against? I'm guessing they need to be pretty stout, were they solid?

Current status report - I took the axle out today and pressure washed it to get the last of the paint off of it. Figured it might speed things up a bit...

[George Willer]

George - That is a great idea and could well be next on my list of to do's if another week in the tank doesn't make the axle want to conform to my wishes. What type of metal rods did you use to push against? I'm guessing they need to be pretty stout, were they solid?

Current status report - I took the axle out today and pressure washed it to get the last of the paint off of it. Figured it might speed things up a bit...

Definitely solid, and the same size as the spindle. On my project the rods bent a little. For this job you need everything possible to be working in your favor. I doubt the electrolysis will have much effect on the internal rust, but the soaking in a brew of water/electrolyte will help. Soapy water, Coca Cola, or pissing on it may do as much.

[Jim Becker]

George,
We all know you are a whiz at this stuff, but that may make it a little to clear.

[bald]

Electrolysis question not appropiate to topic. Removed
bald, Southeast Georgia

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

This may be a stupid question, but has anyone ever tried to loosen the axles by twisitn rather than pushing straight out. I would think that if you anchored one end and used a long bar through the ohter end you could get a lot of leverage if you didn't have the shats, jacks, etc. handy.

[Bill Blansett]

John, You raise a very good point that I haven't seen mentioned in a long time. Yes, I always try to rotate the inner shaft prior to pulling or pushing them apart. It does help to break up the rust with more of a grinding action. I fully recommend doing this, However, if you have enough cubs, you will get one that is just as stubborn and will not rotate either. Perserverance, KROIL, and using George Willer's method will usually lead to success. Bill

[Jim Becker]

I tried hooking a come-along from the bottom of an axle extension back to the drawbar and put as much tension on it as I dared. Things flexed quite a way but nothing moved. I had already soaked it a lot and continued to soak and apply BFH to no effect. I eventually took the come-along back off and heated the center section until I got it loose.

Here is another thought. Has anyone tried inserting anodes inside the axle? One would have to be careful about shorts, but it should be possible to insert rods through the axle clamp pin hole.

[danovercash]

I have the opposite problem, mine rotate when I don't want them to.There's about 2" forward/backward play in spindle at bottom. They may not come out, but I'd bet a dollar to a donut that they would make a 360 in the housing. If you could/can drive the tractor around with the axle clamps slightly loose, AXLE pin IN, they may break free. (EJP's idea!) I was thinking to switch sides with the spindle housings, and insert with cold rolled stock, tack weld, and redrill holes. Strong repair plus added front weight.

[Lance Leitzel]

I'm beyond happy, I'm EUPHORIC.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Dan, you see one everynow and then with the excess play problem. I think what happens is the clamps aren't kept tight and it fianllay wears the holse the pins are in. The pins are to index the axles and act as a safety to keep it rom falling sown if the clamps come loose. Many of the bolts holding the axle clamps are so rusty they can't be pulled down tight. Easiest way to solve it is to get some grade 5 or 8 fine thread botls to replace them.

[Lance Leitzel]

Sorry, I didn't get to do this earlier, but THANK YOU to everyone and their suggestions. Basically, it was a combination of electrolysis, twisting with a long 7 foot pole, lots of PB blaster (my Kroil still isn't here yet), and finally some heat on the center part.

Please forgive me for asking one more question. The three parts are now getting their second de-rusting. Once I get them cleaned up and sanded smooth, do I dare prime the extensions, before I slather on the anti-sieze and put them back together, or do you think that bare metal works better for the extensions? I'd sure hate to have to do this again (at least for this tractor).

[Bigdog]

I'd go ahead and paint them.

[Hengy]

I'm beyond happy, I'm EUPHORIC.

Lance,

EXCELLENT!!!

I have been following this thread since the beginning and wanted to see how you came out. This thread just proves the fact that tenacity, perspiration, and inspiration pays off!!!

Congratulations... and keep the pictures coming!!!!

Mike in La Crosse, WI

[Bill Blansett]

I have put several sets of these back together after cleaning and de-rusting and have not ever painted them as I didn't want to add any material to the diameter. Don't know what the next guy fifty years from now will experience, but at my age, like Rette Butler in Gone With the Wind said "Frankly my dear, I don't.........." What I do to prevent a problem is to spray the parts with a spray Rust Converter from Wal-Mart. Use POR if you have it. Then I coat the parts with Anti-seize. New or good bolts as John Pucket stated are critical. I have another method of repairing the holes in the outer tube, but too long to go into here. Write if interested. Bill

[Lance Leitzel]

Here's the final product. At least until I pick something else to mess with.



I do have one question. I couldn't read any of the original bolts heads, should I have used grade 8's here (the axle clamps)? Right now I have grade 5's.

Thanks again for all of the help - Lance