Hydraulic Power Angle Plow

[cityofc]

Has anyone seen the pictures for the hydraulic power angle setup for the front plow blade on a Cub? I knew that Ted Nestell had accomplished this setup a while back. I did a search and found the link in this forum, but it seems the pictures of the setup have disappeared. Did anyone save these pictures or does someone know where I can find them? Thanks.
Brian

[Bigdog]

Don't know what happened to Ted's pictures but here are a couple from billyandmillie

[jostev]

I got Ted's Well, I thought I had a few, but I guess not, I will post the other one If I can find it...

Johnny[/img]

[jostev]

got it, it was in my pm's



Johnny

[allenlook]

This is my first foray into hydraulics, I am learning that I need to get pressure to a "spool valve" and that I need a "2-way" ram...?

I have been searching eBay for the required parts,... I think I should wait until I know a little more about this "stuff". I guess from the pictures shown that I don't need the hydraulic bypass block, but I must need some kind of control (spool) valve and the ram and long hydraulic hoses (and a little more hydraulic fluid.

[Rick Prentice]

Hi Allen. You will need a bypass block, too. The old flow of fluid on the original touch control is pressure from the pump, through the small steel tube, into the side of the touch control unit, then used for operating the internal cylinder or just dumped back into the internal resevoir tank, and returned back through the larger steel tube into the pump. I'll remember something else as soon as I hit the submit button .

The new flow will be-----Pressure out of the pump through the small line, back to the new bypass block, diverted out and back to your new control valve(then used to operate your new power angle cylinder or whatever), back out of the new control valve and then into the new bypass block which then allows fluid to re-enter into the side of the touch control unit to work the t/c, then the fluid works the internal t/c cylinder(if you use it), into the resevoir and back out to the large steel return line and back to the pump.

Make sure you use a quality control valve because anytime you use your t/c for anything, all the pressure needed to activate the internal t/c cylinder is felt by the new bypass block, new lines to and from the new control valve, and back to the bypass block. This is where the word "Power beyond" is used for the control valve when ordering. What could happen with a regular cheap valve would be----if you put alot of pressure from the t/c unit lifting something( for instance), you could blow apart the "out" side of the control valve because it was only designed for returning fluid with no pressure. Usually a power beyond valve is beefed up in this area.

Another thing to be cautious about is----DO NOT START the tractor until everything is hooked up. The hydraulic fluid must be able to make it's complete round trip, from the pump, out through all the components, and back to the pump. If you DEAD END the fluid and start the tractor, you'll probably break something major.

Hope this isn't too confusing, Rick

[cowboy]

Not too shure of this but don't you need a "oppen center" control valve where the fluid flows through it until you pull the lever or are they all like that:?:

Billy

[Dan Robertson]

Cowboy asks

Not too shure of this but don't you need a "oppen center" control valve where the fluid flows through it until you pull the lever or are they all like that:?:

Yes, you do need an open center valve with power beyond capablities, and NO-- they are not all that way.

Here are a couple pics of the angling cylinder, and it's mounts that I have been working on. Don't have all the hose connections complete yet. The link will show other pertinent photos.
http://photos.cubfest.com/thumbnails.php?album=129
The cylinder is a 1 1/2" bore with 1" ram, and an 8" stroke (Ebay items). -----CAUTION--- for anyone attempting to do an install is to make sure you have tire steering clearance with all parts when blade is angled either direction, blade up or down, and front axle up/down rotation to either extreme.

[cityofc]

Thanks for the info so far everyone. I noticed as well, since I have a 1955 Cub with the bottom run exhaust, that I will have to adjust the exhaust pipe to compensate for the bypass block and hydraulic lines. Not sure how I am going to do this, I would assume most use a pipe bender machine? Anyways, feel free to keep the pictures coming, the more the better. Thanks again.

[Dan Robertson]

You can click the link ---- http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9012&highlight= ------ and read the various posts included for ways to modify the low slung exhaust pipe for clearance at the hyd. bypass block. It's not as hard as it may look if you have a fair size, well anchored vise to work with.

[Jeff Silvey]

I'll just get on & off the tractor to get my exercise . It keeps my blood flowing
Jeff

[allenlook]

Thanks for the reply(ies)!

To answer the bypass-block clearance question, there is a bracket that comes with the IH-1000 loader that extends the muffler an extra few inches away from the body of the tractor. TM carries new copies of them, and I bought one along with my hydraulic bypass block. They are just a piece of stamped steel, so they're cheap.

I have the bypass block, but from jostev's picture above, I assumed I would not need it because it just looks like he has an elbow sticking right out of the manifold.

I found a cylinder and some kind of control block on eBay for a Wheel Horse, would they work for me? Sorry to be asking stupid questions - I read the hydraulics basics articles on ATIS, but they don't get into open center and all that stuff... I don't know if that is a 2-way ram, or what the travel is, but I'm considering putting it closer to the center of my blade, so I don't think I need a huge amount of travel...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... %3AIT&rd=1

[tnestell]

I used a cylinder with 8" of travel. Ted

[jostev]

Rudi, I am making a "presentation" that you wanted me to right now

Allen, it looks like there IS a bypass block, but they are using a different hole for some reason I'm not sure as they are not my pics...

Johnny

[Rick Prentice]

Hi Allen. In jostev's pic, you can't see the bypass block because Ted has everything painted up and blended in with red paint. If you look real close, you can see another hose and fitting (directly behind the one with the elbow) that goes into the bottom of the bypass block.
I'd stay away from that set-up on ebay for the wheelhorse. They don't show the important side of the control valve, and by the one way cylinder shown, the valve probably is a float down setup. You would only be able to lift something and the weight of the object lifted would collapse the cylinder for downward travel, like a mowing deck or plow. That wouldn't work for a power angle. Rick