I was out plowing the other day with the 12 or so inches we got up here in North/Central Mass. and toward the end of it, after about 45 minutes or so, I really notice much more oily exhaust then usual. Also the tractor seemed to be missing, or running unevenly. I have done nothing to anything to make me think that I put something back together incorrectly, and it has been purring beautifully.
Since I got the tractor it has always burned a little oil, but it seems to really be burning more. Almost smokey exhaust. It's not like there is a big cloud, but I certainly smelled more than usual when I came inside. I was promptly instructed to leave the jacket and pants outside due to the smell!
Am I on the road to a top end rebuild?
What should I start with? Timing? Points?
It's going to be in the 50's the next 3 days, so I hope to spend some quality time with the cub!
Thanks!
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Blowing oil and engine missing
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- Jeremy58Cub
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 6:51 pm
- Zip Code: 01473
- Tractors Owned: 1958 Cub
- Location: MA, Ashburnham
Blowing oil and engine missing
Jeremy
58 Cub
58 Cub
- Bigdog
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Pull the plugs and check them. If they are black and sooty, you are running rich. What color is the smoke you are seeing ? I suspect most of your problem is related to running rich rather than burning oil. One thing that has been discovered by several members of the board is that the main jet orfice seems to vary somewhat in diameter and the larger ones do have that characteristic. I believe that ideally the diameter should be around .032" for best running. But you may want to check some of the threads on the subject.
Try a fresh set of plug and see if that clears things for a while. If it does, then concentrate on correcting the carbon problem.
Try a fresh set of plug and see if that clears things for a while. If it does, then concentrate on correcting the carbon problem.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
-
- Team Cub Mentor
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Second opinion. Weather conditions could have been part of the problem - plug wire shorting out. First thing is to let the tractor dry out then check it's running condtion.
I'd would do a complete tune up. Plugs, points and timing. Check the condition of rotor, cap and plug wires. Clean air cleaner.
During the tune up check the condtion of the plugs as BigDog suggests.
Tractor should run better after the tune up. Then proceed to carburation.
Eugene
I'd would do a complete tune up. Plugs, points and timing. Check the condition of rotor, cap and plug wires. Clean air cleaner.
During the tune up check the condtion of the plugs as BigDog suggests.
Tractor should run better after the tune up. Then proceed to carburation.
Eugene
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- 10+ Years
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Third opinion: Sounds just like what happened to one of my cubs when the hydraulic pump (only if equipted with hydraulics) decided to leak it's fluid into the crankcase. To eliminate this possibility, check your oil level on your dipstick. Is it over-full?? If not...then that's good. You can cross that possibility off your list.
If the dipstick shows the crankcase being over-full....then you will need to rebuild your hydraulic pump which is a simple procedure. Also, you would want to change the oil and filter in your cub as the hydraulic fluid will undoubtedly mess with your rings.
If the dipstick shows the crankcase being over-full....then you will need to rebuild your hydraulic pump which is a simple procedure. Also, you would want to change the oil and filter in your cub as the hydraulic fluid will undoubtedly mess with your rings.
Kirk
CUBS:
'49
CUBS:
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- John *.?-!.* cub owner
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A couple other things to think aobut would be the posibility of ice in the carb or fuel lines, resulting in fuel starvation, or maybe enven floodign due to blocking float. A second posibillity is ice build up in oil of the air clenaer, or maybe the air cleaner oil being to thick, causing it to run rich.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
- awander
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One other possibility-when it's cold out, any coolant that overflows will make what like a thick white smoke. This had me fooled into thinking it was oil smoke. The only real work the "Wile E", my '52, does is plowing snow, and usually about an hour into it, he gives me great billows of the white stuff.
Andy Wander
UBE, PA
'52 Farmall Cub "Wile E."
'72 Int'l Cub "Bugs Backhoe"
"Men are from Earth; Women are from Earth. Deal with it!" (attributed to George Carlin)
UBE, PA
'52 Farmall Cub "Wile E."
'72 Int'l Cub "Bugs Backhoe"
"Men are from Earth; Women are from Earth. Deal with it!" (attributed to George Carlin)
- Jeremy58Cub
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 6:51 pm
- Zip Code: 01473
- Tractors Owned: 1958 Cub
- Location: MA, Ashburnham
Kirk Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 6:30 pm Post subject:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Third opinion: Sounds just like what happened to one of my cubs when the hydraulic pump (only if equipted with hydraulics) decided to leak it's fluid into the crankcase. To eliminate this possibility, check your oil level on your dipstick. Is it over-full?? If not...then that's good. You can cross that possibility off your list.
If the dipstick shows the crankcase being over-full....then you will need to rebuild your hydraulic pump which is a simple procedure. Also, you would want to change the oil and filter in your cub as the hydraulic fluid will undoubtedly mess with your rings.
Well sure enough, the crankcase oil is almost an inch above the full line.
I guess I will be ordering a rebuild kit.
Anyone have suggestions as to where to get them quickly? There is an IH/CASE dealer not too far away, but he told me 10 days. I could be patient, but it would be silly not to look for other options of someone online perhaps that has them in stock and ready to ship before the next snow?
Thank you all for the great suggestions. I guess I will fix this before shopping for new spark plugs!
Jeremy
58 Cub
58 Cub
- John(videodoc)
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heres the link
http://www.tmtractor.com/hy/288fp.htm
good people to deal with!
i am surprised you case dealer said 10 days. i get my stuff in next day, always. huh. anyway heres the part number. my caseih dealer had it in stock.Case IH part# 355208R91
http://www.tmtractor.com/hy/288fp.htm
good people to deal with!
i am surprised you case dealer said 10 days. i get my stuff in next day, always. huh. anyway heres the part number. my caseih dealer had it in stock.Case IH part# 355208R91
-
- 10+ Years
Jeremy,
"O" rings for the pump are available at any hardware store. Since your Cub is a 58 I would think that the main shaft on the pump has an "O" ring instead of a leather seal.
Save yourself some money and take the pump apart, then take the "O" rings with you to the hardware store and match them up. It will cost you under $2 to fix the problem.
One thing to to check is for a groove in the shaft where the "O" ring rides.
"O" rings for the pump are available at any hardware store. Since your Cub is a 58 I would think that the main shaft on the pump has an "O" ring instead of a leather seal.
Save yourself some money and take the pump apart, then take the "O" rings with you to the hardware store and match them up. It will cost you under $2 to fix the problem.
One thing to to check is for a groove in the shaft where the "O" ring rides.
- Jeremy58Cub
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 6:51 pm
- Zip Code: 01473
- Tractors Owned: 1958 Cub
- Location: MA, Ashburnham
Sounds great Donny. That's what I will do.
The numbers on the pump are:
051004107
and
35??006R93
The ?? can't be made out, there is a big scrape there that wiped them away forever!
It doesn't look like that rebuild kit from TM is the right application for that pump. The numbers don't match.
Is there another rebuild kit if I need to go down that road?
I guess I could search the TM site. Thanks for the help and suggestions!
*************************
Are the O-rings you are talking about the ones that are part #8 on this:
Or are you talking about different o-rings? Because after having the pump in my hands, I don't see how the hydraulic fluid could get through into the crankcase. Could you be talking about Part # 5 above?
Perhaps I should take all 3 to the hardware store to replace!
************************
I got new O-Rings and put them in. Put it all back together, drained the crankcase oil and oil filter. Don't have a spare filter, so I will be changing the oil again soon when I have the filter.
Started right up, added the hydraulic fluid, went up and down a couple times to get the air bubbles out and topped it off when the blade was down.
I ran it for about 15 minutes, and it sounds better than it did when I put it away after plowing on Sunday, but it still sounds like it is missing.
The engine isn't running smoothly. It isn't terrible, but it isn't right either.
I have a timing light, I was thinking of using it, but have never used it on the tractor. Used it on the old car plenty though.
I guess that is my next task. I have to find out how it needs to be timed. Any hints where to look?
I also was thinking that I do need to get new plugs. The ones in there have visibly been there a while, and I am sure are all full of carbon.
Once those are changed perhaps it will burn less oil, since the plugs will be clean?
The numbers on the pump are:
051004107
and
35??006R93
The ?? can't be made out, there is a big scrape there that wiped them away forever!
It doesn't look like that rebuild kit from TM is the right application for that pump. The numbers don't match.
Is there another rebuild kit if I need to go down that road?
I guess I could search the TM site. Thanks for the help and suggestions!
*************************
Are the O-rings you are talking about the ones that are part #8 on this:
Or are you talking about different o-rings? Because after having the pump in my hands, I don't see how the hydraulic fluid could get through into the crankcase. Could you be talking about Part # 5 above?
Perhaps I should take all 3 to the hardware store to replace!
************************
I got new O-Rings and put them in. Put it all back together, drained the crankcase oil and oil filter. Don't have a spare filter, so I will be changing the oil again soon when I have the filter.
Started right up, added the hydraulic fluid, went up and down a couple times to get the air bubbles out and topped it off when the blade was down.
I ran it for about 15 minutes, and it sounds better than it did when I put it away after plowing on Sunday, but it still sounds like it is missing.
The engine isn't running smoothly. It isn't terrible, but it isn't right either.
I have a timing light, I was thinking of using it, but have never used it on the tractor. Used it on the old car plenty though.
I guess that is my next task. I have to find out how it needs to be timed. Any hints where to look?
I also was thinking that I do need to get new plugs. The ones in there have visibly been there a while, and I am sure are all full of carbon.
Once those are changed perhaps it will burn less oil, since the plugs will be clean?
Jeremy
58 Cub
58 Cub
- Jeremy58Cub
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 6:51 pm
- Zip Code: 01473
- Tractors Owned: 1958 Cub
- Location: MA, Ashburnham
Well, I went and got new plugs today.
I assume that the spark plugs are quite fouled since the hydraulic fluid was in the crankcase oil.
I also assume that I should change the plugs out ASAP, and then run it for a while and hope that it clears the smokey exhaust up and that it helps even out the engine.
I have never had the distributor cover off since I have owned it, and never seen a reason to, since it always has run so smoothly.
I guess it can't hurt to check out my point gap right?
Anything else I could do to help it even out?
I should add that since I changed the oil and fixed the pump it is running better, but not as well as it was last week before this happened.
Does it take a little while to run all the junk out?
I assume that the spark plugs are quite fouled since the hydraulic fluid was in the crankcase oil.
I also assume that I should change the plugs out ASAP, and then run it for a while and hope that it clears the smokey exhaust up and that it helps even out the engine.
I have never had the distributor cover off since I have owned it, and never seen a reason to, since it always has run so smoothly.
I guess it can't hurt to check out my point gap right?
Anything else I could do to help it even out?
I should add that since I changed the oil and fixed the pump it is running better, but not as well as it was last week before this happened.
Does it take a little while to run all the junk out?
Jeremy
58 Cub
58 Cub
- cowboy
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Sat May 15, 2004 11:10 am
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- Location: MI, Britton
Hi Jeremy
I had changed plugs points and condenser. Month later fouled out the plugs. Changed the plugs fouled them five minuts later. Pulled off the distributer cap and it was full of water droplets from condasation. I was flabergasted as my cub is always parked in the garage.
I had changed plugs points and condenser. Month later fouled out the plugs. Changed the plugs fouled them five minuts later. Pulled off the distributer cap and it was full of water droplets from condasation. I was flabergasted as my cub is always parked in the garage.
Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you. 1964 cub. Farmall 100 and 130.
"Those that say it can’t be done should not interrupt the ones who are doing it.”
"Those that say it can’t be done should not interrupt the ones who are doing it.”
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