1949 Cub Electrical rebuild

[Jude]

The generator on my '49 cub just locked up. The tractor is 6v and a bit of an electrical Frankenstein from some previous owner. The lights don't work, wires are everywhere, and there is an extra switch for I don't know what purpose. Since I need to replace the generator, I thought I would try to get the electrical system put back to rights. I'm looking for a new generator and wiring harness, but there are too many options and I don't know which to choose. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Glen]

Hi,
You could take the generator apart and see what is wrong with it. The 2 long bolts at the rear of it hold it together.
If the front ball bearing locked up, a new bearing will fix that. It may need a new rear bushing, and new brushes.
You could take it to an automotive electrical repair shop if you don't work on gens.

The original gen for a 1949 Cub is a Delco, model number 1101355. The number is on an oval plate on the gen, at the left side of the plate.
They have a cutout, or Relay IH called it on top of the gen. The Relay isn't a voltage regulator.
The voltage regulator came out on Cubs during 1950.
Below is a page from the 1947 Cub owner's manual, showing the electrical system with the hood off.
You can see what it originally had.
https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... age-33.jpg

[Jude]

Thanks, I might as well take a look inside.
I've seen wiring harnesses referred to as "3 wire", "4 wire", etc. What does the number of wires refer to?
All I have are the generator, starter, and three lights.

[tst]

in 49 it would have been a generator with a cutout relay mounted on top of the generator and it was controlled by the headlight switch

[Glen]

I posted the page from the owner's manual above, showing under the hood, that is what should be there if you want it the original way.
The system uses a 4 position charge and light switch on the dash, to control the gen output. I don't know if you have the switch or it is gone.
It was before Cubs had voltage regulators, you had to choose the charge rate yourself.
The switch has 4 positions, L, low charge, H, high charge, D, dim front lights, and B, bright lights.
The electrical system info begins on page 32 of the 1947, and 1949 owner's manual that they have on here, and using the switch is explained on page 34, at the lower left of the page.
The switch may have been in the upper right position on your dash. The switch uses a specially shaped hole.
https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... age-34.jpg

https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... age-35.jpg

Below are pics from TM Tractor Parts of the 4 position switch. Places sell them online, when I looked in the past.
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gel ... ht_001.htm

Below is a wiring harness for the Cubs with the Relay system. People on here have said Brillman is a good place to buy from. Maybe someone that bought one there will say if this is the one he or she bought. I've never bought one there. You can look at the pictures.
https://brillman.com/product/farmall-cu ... e-harness/

Below is a listing for the switch.
https://brillman.com/product/ih-farmall ... ht-switch/

They have 2 listings for the Relay, for 2 different prices.
You can also change it to 12 volts, using a 1 wire alternator. People on here use the same 6 volt starter.

[Eugene]

If you intend to restore the tractor to original condition, then rebuild the generator and obtain a quality voltage regulator.

Consider a 12 volt single wire alternator. Has a lot of advantages. Less expensive than generator repairs. No voltage regulator. Wiring is simpler. Alternator almost hides under the hood.

[inairam]

I have been pleased with wire harnesses from https://brillman.com/ They also have cut-off relays and regulators.

Napa has the 6 v regulators. They are expensive. But the cheap ones do not last very long.

My 49 came to me with a regulator and I have just kept it that way.

[k hutchins]

If it's the same as a '48, this is the diagram l used and made my own on both of my '48s. Buying the wire and connections was cheaper than a premade plus shipping.

Good luck

[Glen]

The wiring diagram above is the same for a 1949 Cub.
It doesn't show the wiring for the ignition switch.

If you are buying or making a new wiring harness, you also need to know if the Cub has a magneto or a Battery Ignition unit.
A 1949 Cub came with a magneto.
The Battery Ignition unit came out during 1950, and some older Cubs were changed to that.
The magneto makes it's own power, it uses no battery power, and has no battery wire connected to it.
The wire on the side of it goes to the ignition switch. The switch grounds the magneto to stop the engine.
The Battery Ignition unit uses battery power. A battery power wire goes from the ignition switch to the coil, which is on the outside of the unit. So you would need that wire.
The ignition switch for the magneto has 1 post for a wire.
The ignition switch for the Battery Ignition unit has 2 posts for wires.
Below are pics from TM Tractor Parts.
The 1st pic is a magneto.
The 2nd pic is a Battery Ignition unit. The coil goes on top of it, it isn't there in the pic. It is round like cars used in the past.

[jimbaker]

Howdy Jude,
I’ll add my .02 to this just for another data point. I own and operate 3 cubs on the farm… they are important little workhorses so to me reliability is more important than originality. If it’s a parade queen, opinions vary. There’s a lot of discussion about 6 or 12 volt, and while I agree 6 volt works great when it’s properly tuned, it does absolutely nothing for you on a weekend when your battery bites the dust and Wal-mart doesn’t stock a 6 v battery. For that reason, I change all to 12v. Simple and reliable.
I put the hitachi alternator on ( look me up… I posted how about 10 years ago. That $54 alternator is still going! Zero maintenance on it all this time (just the alt, of course we maintain the tractors)
We have 1 with a magneto, 2 with distributors. All the distributors use pertronics electronic conversions and their flamethrower coils. I also run this on our Ford 8N. Again, bulletproof! On the magneto cub, of course the battery does nothing but to start the tractor and the lights. I like that redundancy. Brillman rebuilt the mag and did a wonderful job. I recommend them highly. They sell quality stuff. On a cub, the wiring harness is so simple I’ve always made my own.
Here’s where I probably depart the groupthink… I strive for reliability. Many cubs are 75 years old and there’s enough maintenance to do with seals, final drives, pro shaft wear and the implements that I don’t want to be fooling with stuff I can make trouble free. The value in these tractors isn’t just originality, it’s the city guy that that likes old stuff but wants it to mow his new 3 acre “ranchett” in the country and typically don’t know how to adjust points or flash a field. Us old geezers are dying out.
2 of my cubs have been in the family for 50+ years. They’re reliable and strong, and look great in the field cultivating or on the
square during a farmers market running an ice cream churn. I’ve got zero concerns about reliability or consumable future parts availability. Spend your time painting it,cleaning and keeping it nice. If IH was building these things today, they’d be changed as I suggested.

[Jude]

I got the generator off and am working on cleaning it up. Looks ok, just needs bearing. The material that lines the band that goes over the brushes disintegrated. What do I need to look for to replace it?
Thanks

[staninlowerAL]

.......... What do I need to look for to replace it? Thanks

A couple of wraps with 2 inch duct tape then reinstall the band should work. JMHO Stan

[Gary Dotson]

I use a strip of gasket material.

[Dale Finch]

I used a strip of roofing felt...suggested by another forum member, and it's still there after over 5 years.

[Jim Becker]

I use a strip of gasket material.

Paper gasket material is the best choice among the few things I have tried. That ever thickness I had on hand was a little too thick to install easily. Next time I need more gasket material, I will try for something thinner. I noticed that McMaster Carr has some narrow strips that are adhesive on one side. I haven't checked to see if they have one the proper width for the band. If so, I may give it a try, stick it to the inside of the band.

By the way, when you install it turn the band and gasket so the end joint is down when the generator is installed.