Tight motor need to see if starter will turn it

[pett3227b]

Okay, I've put my rebuilt motor back onto the back half of the cub. I used the hand crank to see how tight it is and its too tight to turn by hand. I am wondering what is the smallest amount of components I can put on here to see if the starter will turn it over? Do I need to put the head on and ground the voltage regulator? anything else that I'm not considering? I only want to bump it around a little to see if it will turn not over and over.

[ricky racer]

If it's to tight to turn over by hand, I think you've got an issue. It's best to determine what that issue is before you damage something.

[ricky racer]

Remid us what all was done to the engine.

[tst]

did you check all the piston ring, and bearing clearance when you assembled the engine ?

[2slow]

I agree, if you can't turn it by your hand something is not right. And you say the head isn't even on it, it should turn easy.
I wouldn't do it, but you can put the starter on it, and battery cables and try it.

[ricky racer]

Okay, I've put my rebuilt motor back onto the back half of the cub. I used the hand crank to see how tight it is and its too tight to turn by hand. I am wondering what is the smallest amount of components I can put on here to see if the starter will turn it over? Do I need to put the head on and ground the voltage regulator? anything else that I'm not considering? I only want to bump it around a little to see if it will turn not over and over.

You've had at least three other threads posing the same problem. This just seems like a rehash of the same stuff. What did you find when you explored the other advice?

[Eugene]

I read some of your previous posts. Did you lubricate everything during assembly?

Put engine on the engine stand or bench. Disassemble one part at a time. Example, remove one piston, then try to rotate the crankshaft. Then remove one more piston. Try to rotate crankshaft. Continue working to the crankshaft.

Something will eventually free up, providing a substantial clue as to the problem.

Fully assembled engine should rotate/turn with the hand crank.

[pett3227b]

I put the engine together once before and had the same problem. I had the cylinders bored out so that is adding to the problem. I plastigauged it and my machinist used a bore scope to check the piston to bore clearance. Both were satisfactory but a little tight. I was able to turn the flywheel by hand once all the rods were connected to crankshaft. All my checking has shown me that its just a bit tight not completely jammed up

[pett3227b]

I have 2 wires that are connected to the starter. The large wire comes from the battery and the small wire i'm not exactly sure where it goes. Can I use the starter with only the large wire from the battery connected? Or does the other little wire need to be there to make the starter work?

[Bill V in Md]

The small wire goes to the ammeter. The starter needs only the wire from the battery and starter must be grounded. I believe Eugene’s advice is the best approach going forward.

[radioguy41]

Okay, I've put my rebuilt motor back onto the back half of the cub.------I was able to turn the flywheel by hand once all the rods were connected to crankshaft. All my checking has shown me that its just a bit tight not completely jammed up

Hold on, after it was all together you could turn the engine by turning the flywheel? So what has changed? If I am understanding this right it turned before you connected it to the torque tube but not since? That tells me the problem is in the drive line; the clutch is stuck/jammed, the pilot bushing is too tight, the trans is stuck, it's not in neutral, clutch disc is in backwards, etc. Have you tried to hand crank it while someone is depressing the clutch?

Do not use the starter motor because if the driveline is somehow jammed and that starter does engage and turn the engine that tractor could move, even if it's just a wee bit, and that could be dangerous.