Cub Lo Boy draw bar mounting

[WVScott]

LoBoy hitch - 1.jpeg (283.43 KiB) Viewed 465 times

I got the Lo-Boy home and started cleaning it all up and had a question on how the drawbar is mounted. The way it currently is I can lift up on it and move it 2-3 inches, I was not sure if it just needed to be tightened down or if it was mounted incorrectly. The tractor had a mower on it (think woods 59") that I really don't need so I also took it off if that matters.

That brings up another question - what does a Wood mower sell for? I figure I will sell it as I mow with a Kubota BX and really don't need it. I won't mind trading it for a quick hitch and carry all if it was worth that much and could find one.

LoBoy mower - 1.jpeg (52.21 KiB) Viewed 465 times

The only things wrong with it was the top rear pull that attaches to the PTO has a piece broken on one sire of the pulley. The fellow that sold it used it to mow and put Oregon blades on it and supposly a new belt last year. I turned it on and it ran fine but never mowed or anything with it.

[Don McCombs]

Fastened the way it is, you should not be able to move it up and down. Check the tightness of the four tapered head bolts holding the bracket to the final.

[Barnyard]

I agree with Don. Also, make sure those are tapered head bolts.

[radioguy41]

I agree, I can see part of the taper under that rear bolt indicating it's not seated.

Click on image for a larger view.

[WVScott]

Thank you!! I will get under it tomorrow and see if it is loose. A quick check and it felt tight but I will take a closer look. Before I put any torque to it I figured it would be wise to ask!
THANK YOU

[Don McCombs]

Before you tighten them any further, I would remove them one at a time and measure them. The tapered bolts come in two sizes. 1 inch and 1.25 inch, I think. The ones for the drawbar brackets should be 1 inch. Using the longer one could break out the bottom of the blind hole in the casting.

[WVScott]

Great advice - thank you

[Cubfriend]

Also, it may be advisable to run a tap into the hole to clean dirt and rust from the threads. (Tap is 5/8 x 11 tpi) The bolts tend to seize up sometimes. I have had to do this on some of mine. Antiseize on the bolts may be a good idea before installation.

[WVScott]

THANKS - Yep, they are too long thus why they never tightened down the drawbar. Greatly appreciate you telling me that. I still have one stuck, it appears they had a gorilla tighten it. Have it soaked with penetrating oil and will hit it with an induction heating unit tomorrow to get it out (I sure hope).

bolts - 1.jpeg (359.16 KiB) Viewed 279 times

[indy61]

I think those are the correct bolts. You only measure the threads.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gdr/drbolts_001.htm

[WVScott]

I will check that tomorrow, thank you. I tossed them in the blast cabinet since they were a greasy rusty mess but may just order some new ones since at least one will need to be replaced. You do have me wondering if the bracket is a bit wollered-out.

[Glen]

Hi,
I would use a screwdriver that fits to the bottom of the final drive bolt holes, and see if there is dirt or grease in the holes, preventing the bolts from going fully in the threads. Use a light to look in the holes and see if they look ok.
You could use a die on the bolt threads, and a tap in the holes and clean the threads.
After cleaning the threads, I use some motor oil on the bolt threads, and on the threads in the holes.

[Barnyard]

Hi,
I would use a screwdriver that fits to the bottom of the final drive bolt holes, and see if there is dirt or grease in the holes, preventing the bolts from going fully in the threads. Use a light to look in the holes and see if they look ok.
You could use a die on the bolt threads, and a tap in the holes and clean the threads.
After cleaning the threads, I use some motor oil on the bolt threads, and on the threads in the holes.

I think I would use a tap and never sieze as Cub Friend suggested above. A screwdriver just doesn't clean the threads very well

[Jim Becker]

Hi,
I would use a screwdriver that fits to the bottom of the final drive bolt holes, and see if there is dirt or grease in the holes, preventing the bolts from going fully in the threads. Use a light to look in the holes and see if they look ok.
You could use a die on the bolt threads, and a tap in the holes and clean the threads.
After cleaning the threads, I use some motor oil on the bolt threads, and on the threads in the holes.

I think I would use a tap and never sieze as Cub Friend suggested above. A screwdriver just doesn't clean the threads very well

I think Glen is addressing the possibility that dirt/oil has gotten packed into the bottom of the holes, effectively making the hole less deep. I've seen dirt packed in that a tap will just run into and stop. This is particularly a problem with a bottoming tap. That said, I would use a bottoming tap if I had one available so the threads will be cleaned all the way in.

[Glen]

Sorry if I wasn't too clear. I meant what Jim wrote above. The screwdriver is for scraping in the bottom of the bolt holes, to see if there is packed in dirt or grease in the holes.
Keep the screwdriver blade the wide direction to how you are scraping.
Or you could turn it too, in the bottom of the holes.
If you find dirt, after it's scraped loose, you could blow it out with air, use your safety goggles when using the air.