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Oil filter lid and gasket
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- 10+ Years
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Oil filter lid and gasket
After getting my cub running for the first time, now I'm checking for leaks.
I have oil leaking around the top of the oil filter housing where the cap goes on. Not sure if it is the seal for the cap or the seal for the bolt. I looked through what is left of my cub gasket kit but don't see those in there. Also the back side of the cap has some cracks in it as if someone cranked the bolt down so much that the aluminum casting started to give.
Anyone know the part numbers for the gaskets?
I'm going to see if my local tractor yard has the lid.
I also would like to replace the retaining nut on the fan pulley assembly, it holds the axel to the fork on the timing cover. It is not a standard thread.
Doug in Thackery
I have oil leaking around the top of the oil filter housing where the cap goes on. Not sure if it is the seal for the cap or the seal for the bolt. I looked through what is left of my cub gasket kit but don't see those in there. Also the back side of the cap has some cracks in it as if someone cranked the bolt down so much that the aluminum casting started to give.
Anyone know the part numbers for the gaskets?
I'm going to see if my local tractor yard has the lid.
I also would like to replace the retaining nut on the fan pulley assembly, it holds the axel to the fork on the timing cover. It is not a standard thread.
Doug in Thackery
- allenlook
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Leak
If the oil is pooling along the rim of the lid, it is most likely your bolt seal. I would replace it and use JB Weld on the inside of the lid for now. If it is only running down the sides, it is the lid gasket, and the part number for that (and all) gaskets is on this page http://www.allenlook.com/cub/tc37f_db/t ... ter=GASKET
I think you are asking for...251 407 R1
I think you are asking for...251 407 R1
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- George Willer
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Thackery,
Since you mention aluminum for the cap you have an early one. They've been a frequent problem. They leak, the bolt gets tightened more, they leak more, the bolt gets tightened more, they leak more.................
Do yourself a favor and find a pressed steel one if you can. The parts manual isn't helpful, but PN 251 406 R2 is very likely the steel replacement... that's probably what the "R2" means.
Good on you for gettin' 'er goin'.
Since you mention aluminum for the cap you have an early one. They've been a frequent problem. They leak, the bolt gets tightened more, they leak more, the bolt gets tightened more, they leak more.................
Do yourself a favor and find a pressed steel one if you can. The parts manual isn't helpful, but PN 251 406 R2 is very likely the steel replacement... that's probably what the "R2" means.
Good on you for gettin' 'er goin'.
George Willer
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
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Hi Doug,
Lightening does strike twice in the same spot! This is the second time in as many weeks that another forum person had the issue as my own.
Yesterday afternoon I fired up my cub engine for the first time since a complete engine rebuild. I too had oil coming out around the top of the oil filter cap - from both the bolt and the rim. I removed the gaskets, gave them a good coating of oil, and cranked the cap on TIGHT. That did the trick for me.
Here is my theory: A brand new tight engine has a lot more oil pressure.
Good luck, Rick
Lightening does strike twice in the same spot! This is the second time in as many weeks that another forum person had the issue as my own.
Yesterday afternoon I fired up my cub engine for the first time since a complete engine rebuild. I too had oil coming out around the top of the oil filter cap - from both the bolt and the rim. I removed the gaskets, gave them a good coating of oil, and cranked the cap on TIGHT. That did the trick for me.
Here is my theory: A brand new tight engine has a lot more oil pressure.
Good luck, Rick
Rick 1948 cub
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- allenlook
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Washer
Is it copper for some reason? Soft enough to form a seal without having to overtighten it?
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- Lance Leitzel
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May I be so bold as to recommend a different solution to the oil filter bolt leaking. I've finally settled on using a Nylon washer instead. I got mine at NAPA after having done much battle with copper, o-rings, new bolts, etc. Works like a champ and no longer having to torque it down so hard. If I remember correctly it is a 1/2 I.D. washer.
Last edited by Lance Leitzel on Tue Feb 07, 2006 12:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ego diligo meus tracti.
(I love my tractors)
(I love my tractors)
- George Willer
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The problem with the early die cast (aluminum) ones is that they distort badly from overtightening. As the center pulls down the gasket surface turns up, so that neither rim nor center can possibly seal. Just for grins, I straightened one once, and it worked, but it took an enormous push to do it. Replacing it with the pressed steel one, which is much better, is the way to go.
When I restored my first Cub, I didn't know there were better ones available so I made a steel one. The correct police never caught me.
When I restored my first Cub, I didn't know there were better ones available so I made a steel one. The correct police never caught me.
George Willer
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
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- 10+ Years
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I picked up a new lid gasket and the bolt coper washer Monday. I was suprised to see the copper washer, and figured that it would not do much.
I may try the nylon washer. Next time I'm at the local tractor yard I'll see if they have a later steel lid. I can easily see that this lid has been pulled down at the center.
Doug
I may try the nylon washer. Next time I'm at the local tractor yard I'll see if they have a later steel lid. I can easily see that this lid has been pulled down at the center.
Doug
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