Farmall Cub - Good First Tractor?

[Gary Dotson]

If your oil filter cover still won’t seal, it’s probably the original pot metal cover. They warp over time and cause problems. It should be replaced with the later steel cover.

[cdahl383]

The cover I have seems pretty sturdy. It isn't flat. Maybe someone put a later model cover on mine? I'm hoping it seals up with the new copper washer on there now.

[indy61]

It's also easy to have the rubber/cork gasket move around while tightening and not seal correctly.

[Glen]

Below is a page from the 1950 Cub owner's manual showing the 1st style of oil filter cover.
They were soft metal.
They have said on here that they bend down from tightening the bolt.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2014.jpg

IH changed to this style of cover after then, the page below is from the 1955 Cub operator's manual.
They are steel.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2022.jpg

TM Tractor sells new ones, it says they are Case IH parts. You can look at the pics there.
When I mention TM Tractor, it is often so you can see pics of the parts, I'm not trying to sell their parts, their website has lots of info.

[cdahl383]

Below is a page from the 1950 Cub owner's manual showing the 1st style of oil filter cover.
They were soft metal.
They have said on here that they bend down from tightening the bolt.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2014.jpg

IH changed to this style of cover after then, the page below is from the 1955 Cub operator's manual.
They are steel.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2022.jpg

TM Tractor sells new ones, it says they are Case IH parts. You can look at the pics there.
When I mention TM Tractor, it is often so you can see pics of the parts, I'm not trying to sell their parts, their website has lots of info.

It looks like I have a later style oil filter lid. It dips down and back up again, not flat like the earlier one. Maybe someone destroyed/bent the original and replaced it with the newer/better design?

[cdahl383]

I changed the steering gearbox oil last night after work. When I say "changed", I mean added. I took all the plugs out, had a pan ready to catch the old oil. Nothing came out! Haha! There was literally nothing in there!

I cleaned up the threads and the area and put the drain plug back in. I dumped some 80w90 gear oil in there until it started seeping out through the level plug. Then I put everything back together. I came back into the garage a few hours later and still no leaks. I'm not sure what happened to the old oil. It was really messy where the oil would have come out when drained though. I wonder if someone didn't have that drain plug tight and it just leaked out over time?

Based on what I can tell so far, it looks like this tractor was possibly restored at one time, but then it must have sat for a while, possibly outside for a bit. I cleaned it up a little more last night too.

I was going to change the coolant but the petcock on the bottom didn't want to flow anything. I unscrewed it and it just dripped a little. There must be a lot of sediment stuck around that area. I'll have to take the petcock out and poke around in there with a screwdriver or pick. I think originally they just had a plug. Someone must have added the petcock later on.

[Don McCombs]

May PO’s replaced the gear oil with grease. Not a good solution.

[Barnyard]

I cleaned up the threads and the area and put the drain plug back in.

Make sure you clean out the orifice in the fill plug so it can breath. If it is plugged, the system can hold condensation inside. A stiff wire and brake cleaner will do the trick.

[Jim Becker]

If it is plugged, the system can hold condensation inside.

Worse yet, if it is plugged pressure will build as it heat cycles and oil will be pushed past the seals. That could be why it was empty.

[cdahl383]

Oh ok, didn't even see that. The plug had paint all over it. I'm not sure where the hole is on the outside of the plug. I'll have to scrape the paint off to find it. I'll take a look at that this weekend. Thanks for the heads up!

[Jim Becker]

Start on the inside. You know where to look as it will be dead center. If there is no hole on the inside, there won't be one to find on the outside (wrong style plug in use!).

[Eugene]

Start on the inside. You know where to look as it will be dead center. If there is no hole on the inside, there won't be one to find on the outside (wrong style plug in use!).

Then make one yourself.

[cdahl383]

I took the fill plug back off of the steering gearbox this weekend and opened up the vent hole. I scraped all the paint off the sides of the plug and found the little hole. Poked a wire through it, sprayed some carb cleaner through it, now it's all set. Put it back in place. Should ventilate properly now. Thanks!

[Barnyard]

I took the fill plug back off of the steering gearbox this weekend and opened up the vent hole. I scraped all the paint off the sides of the plug and found the little hole. Poked a wire through it, sprayed some carb cleaner through it, now it's all set. Put it back in place. Should ventilate properly now. Thanks!

[cdahl383]

I changed the anti-freeze this weekend. Someone had added a petcock on the bottom, so I opened that up and nothing came out. I used a pick and broke up the crud in there and then everything flowed out good. Added 2 gallons of Prestone 50/50 green anti-freeze. I filled it up to where it was originally so it hopefully won't burp any out when it warms up good. The petcock sealed back up with no leaks, so I'm just going to leave that on there since it's working.

I've also been battling with the oil filter lid. No matter what I use as a gasket it, it just won't seal and continues to leak. I talked to a guy on the Farmall Cub FB group page and he said he used a drain plug gasket from a 1984 Chevy Camaro. Basically just a teflon washer. I went to the auto parts store and picked one up and sure enough it worked! No more leaking! The copper gaskets/washers just weren't working for whatever reason. I cleaned everything off really well too. Now I can start and move the tractor around without it leaking oil there anymore which is nice.

My next step is to change the final drive oil on both drives. I picked up a set of pan gaskets from the tractor place in town, so I'll work on that next.

They had a few Farmall Cub plows there too. The guy said he wanted $100 for each. Seems fair. I thought I might offer a little less and just see what he says. It's not like they're a hot item, looks like they've been sitting a long time. I have the depth control level, dog bone link, draw bar, and eyelet. I just need a pin to go through the arm in the back with a chain to raise/lower the plow with the hydraulic system now.