Only 1 rear tire is loaded. Should I keep it on the right?

[loboygoy]

Hello, I just noticed the back left tire on the 55 Lo-Boy is loaded but the right side is not. The previous owner replaced the right rim at some point and must have decided not to load it. Would it be wise to swap the wheel sides to add the extra weight to back right of the tractor? The tire tread will be reversed but I can't imagine that will cause any issues, will it? Thanks in advance.

[loboygoy]

Additionally, what is the main importance/purpose of tire tread direction? Grip? Traction?

[Matt Kirsch]

If you can deal with everyone that sees your tractor telling you, "Your tires are on backwards..." Seriously, it will happen. Even people that don't know anything about tractors... "Your tires are on backwards..."

The best answer is to drain the fluid from the left tire. The most it can hold is 13 gallons. They usually have less.

You don't need a fancy pump or anything, just enough catch pan capacity. A couple of 2-1/2 gallon jugs with their sides cut out, and 3 5 gallon buckets to pour into. The main part of the valve stem will unscrew from the base and the water will come out. Just park it with the valve stem on the bottom, maybe up on some blocks, and put the catch pan under the stream of water. You'll get most of it. Put the valve stem back in, or better yet get a new one from Tractor Supply, and pump the tire up.

Just do it outside in the brush where you don't care if some spills, as it WILL kill the vegetation for a couple of months.

The only thing that might get in your way is the condition of the valve stem. If it's old and rusty you might want to leave well enough alone until it needs to be dealt with.

I would not worry about moving the tire regardless.

[Jim Becker]

Having a single loaded tire on the right has some advantage over the reverse. If you can stand setting the track as much as 4 inches different than current, you can have the tread facing the right way.

[Urbish]

Having a single loaded tire on the right has some advantage over the reverse. If you can stand setting the track as much as 4 inches different than current, you can have the tread facing the right way.

Yeah. You can just pull the four bolts that hold the rim to the wheel center and flip the rim/tire around to face the right way. Depending on which side of the lugs on the rim are contacting the wheel center, this may result in the rim being at almost the exact same spacing as before or being several inches different. That's what I would do.

[loboygoy]

Thank for the responses. I won’t be able to mess with the valve stem as it’s severely rusted to the loaded rim. I’ll buy a new rim in the future. I think for the time being I’ll swap sides and flip the rims around. My place is bit hilly ,so any additional stability is important to me. Thanks again!

[Eugene]

Rim can possibly be repaired. Drill a new valve stem in another location. Patch and weld the old valve stem hole shut and grind smooth.

Pin holes can be repaired with epoxy.

[Don McCombs]

Keep an eye on The Vine. Good used rims occasionally turn up there.

[Glen]

Hi,
If you have ag tread rear tires, it makes a difference which way the tread is facing.
My friend had a Cub with 1 tire facing backwards for a while, it got less traction than turned the right way, it would spin easily when going forward.
The LoBoy has adjustable width rear tread.
You didn't say what width the rear rims are set to now, or if the wheel discs are turned in or out.
If you change sides with the rims, it will widen or narrow the width, depending on where they are set to now.
Below is a page from the 1957 LoBoy operator's manual, showing the rear wheel widths, you can decide what width you want. It is the right rear wheel in the pic.
The 44" setting is as wide as it can go with the discs turned in.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2060.jpg

[Eugene]

You don't need a fancy pump or anything, just enough catch pan capacity.

You will still have some fluid remaining in the bottom of the tire/tube.

I have used Matt's suggestion then removed the tube. Hang the tube up with the valve stem turned to the bottom, let drain. You can flush the inside of the tube by putting clean water in, then sloshing around. Do this a couple of times. Hang with valve stem down to drain.

[SamsFarm]

Careful!

Calcium chloride burns a bit if you get it on you!

I imagine it is something you definately dont want to get in your eyes!

[Barebones]

Good time to use some non-corrosive material (beet juice?) in place of the calcium chloride.

[Greenthumbfarms]

Good time to use some non-corrosive material (beet juice?) in place of the calcium chloride.

I have been happy with windshield washer fluid or antifreeze

[Gary Dotson]

R V anti-freeze is also a good candidate, non-toxic, inexpensive and pretty pink color. The main ingredient is propylene glycol, in most cases.

[Matt Kirsch]

You don't need a fancy pump or anything, just enough catch pan capacity.

You will still have some fluid remaining in the bottom of the tire/tube.

I have used Matt's suggestion then removed the tube. Hang the tube up with the valve stem turned to the bottom, let drain. You can flush the inside of the tube by putting clean water in, then sloshing around. Do this a couple of times. Hang with valve stem down to drain.

If the goal is to achieve "balance" a gallon or two in the bottom isn't going to throw things off to necessitate further effort in draining and cleaning. The level is so low that it physically can't get to the valve stem, so it's only marginally worse than having nothing in the tubes.

Most every "dry" tire I've ever taken apart has had a bit of CaCl in the tube. Never seemed to cause any issues.