Lo-Boy with 12V Alt.

[tommyhawk]

Ok, got the engine assembled, sitting in a cradle, distributor and coil installed. Before adding the head I had an indicator on #1 piston and checked spark timing with all 4 plugs. All seems well, hope I'm not getting over confident!
Would like to mount the alternator, but alas no bracket found in the basket. Got a view of the bracket for a (short frame?) generator, from the parts manual here, BIG THANKS for that! I'm only guessing here, but did IH use this same bracket with appropriate spacers to mount the alternator?
Also think the schematic for "Farmall Super M with 12V alt. conversion" can be used to rewire this '57 LO-Boy. It shows a Delco 10SI alt. with 3 wires. In the single wire alt. conversion, the same number, 10 SI is called out. Is this just a typo? What I have is a 3 wire plus ground Delco 1100234 42A 4M14. Will this be OK? Just connect the #2 wire from the 2 wire plug to the alternator's Bat. term. as shown? Don't have a warning light on this machine, should I add one?
Got any good sources for proper wiring harness or just make one?
Sorry to be so long winded!

tommyhawk

[Bigdog]

More than you want to know about the 10 SI:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... remy.shtml

Also, if I may borrow from George Willer, here is a picture of his alternator mounting. You must remember that your 57 would have come with a generator, not an alternator so there is no stock alternator bracket. However the generator brackets work quite well:

[Daniel H.]

You don't have to have a warning light, but you must have a lamp or diode between the no 1 terminal and the ignition switch. If you leave out the diode or lamp, the tractor will continue to run arter you cut off the ignition switch.

[bald]

TommyHawk, I put an Hitachi alternator on my '66 Cub last year and it works great. Ran across this site which my help some:
http://www.ytmag.com/articles/artint131.htm

Also have some pictures from my installation at:
http://public.fotki.com/bald/cub_yellowred/

I made my own wiring harness put a small lamp from radio shack in the fuse holder slot on the dash and slipped the fuse holder behind the dash.

Good Luck,
bald, Southeast Georgia

[Dave F]

I have a 66 Lowboy that I installed a 1 wire self exciting 12 V alternator on. Also replaced ammeter with a voltmeter and rewired accordingly. It worked fine for a while but now wont turn on and start to charge. My main question is what makes the 10si a self exciter--is it the regulator? and if so, does anyone have the part #? The other question is, since I have an unused wire in the harness, is there any real reason to have a self exciter? Maybe I can run the 1 wire through my voltmeter from the key switch and to the 1 terminal on the alternator. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

[allenlook]

So THAT's what that little light is for...

[bald]

Feeble mindedness strikes again..most of the info for my conversion came from an article by Mr. Hurley posted by Rudi at
Cub Manual Server
You can work you way to it by clicking on maintenance tips or this is the direct link:
12 Volt Conversion
Good Luck,
bald, Southeast Georgia

[tractorfan1]

Bigdog, sorry for the stupid question but the alternator in your picture is the same as on mine, mine just has one wire atteched to the nut on the back, and it doesn't charge. Does this seem to be the correct way? Or should their be something attached to the wire connector's on the side?

[Daniel H.]

Here is some information on the Delco alternator. For best performance the wire from terminal 2 should run all the way to the battery positive terminal. It should at least go to the starter where the heavy cable from the battery terminates.

I forgot the link before:

http://www.autorewire.com/tech/charging/Delco10SInandd.html

[bald]

Tractorfan1, This is quoted from the ytmag site article in my first response.
"The 10-SI alternator has three terminals, however only two of them get connected to the tractor. (Thus, the 10-SI is sometimes referred to as a two-wire or three-wire alternator)

The “Bat” terminal should be connected to the ammeter with a 10 gauge wire. If a voltmeter is used instead of an ammeter, the 10 gauge wire can be run directly to the stud on the starter where the battery cable connects.
The number “1” terminal should be connected to the ignition switch with 16 or 18 gauge wire so the alternator only receives power when the tractor is “on”. A one amp / 50 volt diode should be installed between the ignition switch and the “1” terminal to prevent backward current flow through the alternator when the ignition switch is “off”.
The number “2” terminal should be connected directly to the “Bat” terminal (16 or 18 gauge wire) on the back of the alternator."
If I'm talking about the wrong alternator or missing the question..please tell me.

[tractorfan1]

bald, thanks for the info, mine only has one wire and thats to the "bat" terminal, thats probably why it doesn't charge. Ill change it tomorrow. Thanks again

[John(videodoc)]

hey george, i'm going to call that thing an air cleaner(?) its red. my demo under the surface is white. ????

[George Willer]

hey george, i'm going to call that thing an air cleaner(?) its red. my demo under the surface is white. ????

John,

That's not my demonstrator... it's Scotty, the '57. The color is primer.

[John(videodoc)]

[tommyhawk]

Wow, good info!
The alternator I have looks just like the picture of a 12 S1, though there are no markings to that effect. It does have metric hardware. Anyhow, went ahead a made a bracket to fit it. If it turns out to be bad, it should be easy to replace or get repaired.
With all the info given it shouldn't be too difficult to make a wiring harness.

Thanks guys, you're good!

tommyhawk