brake rods

[5 Forward]

I have a question about brake rods. The parts manual shows the brakes rods with a clevis on each end of the rod. The brake rods on my tractor have a clevis on the brake shoe end and the rod is bent 90 degrees and hole for a carter pin on the brake pedal end. My tractor is a 57-year model Ser # 199153.
I am cleaning and redoing the final drives. By the way how is the best way to get the brake drum off the differential shaft? Bearings are bad.

[Glen]

Hi,
IH changed the style of Cub brakes at Cub serial number 173601, which was during 1953.

The holes in the final drives are different sizes where the brake rods go into the housings, the newer brake has bigger holes, and more parts on the linkage.

If someone has changed something on your Cub, some pics would be helpful to see it.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new brake rod for the newer style brakes.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/br/2543fp.htm

They have the rod without the clevises for less money.

The brake drums should not be hard to remove after loosening the setscrews.
You may need to tap the shaft out of the drum with a hammer. Remove the round cover held on with the 4 bolts, and the brake drum key, and the shaft goes out the direction that would be away from the tractor.

Below are pics from TM Tractor of the brakes.
The 1st pic is the newer brake, and housing, like a 1957 Cub should have.
The 2nd pic shows the linkage, it is the right side in the pic.
When putting the final drives on, be sure the brake pin is started in the holes at both ends of it.
It can break the castings to tighten the 6 bolts holding the final drive on, if the brake pin is not in the holes.
The 3rd pic shows the 1st style of brake and housing.

[Don McCombs]

Your brake rods should look like the one in this photo from TM Tractor Parts...

[ntrenn]

It sounds like you’ve had a farmer modified brake rod setup. The clevises at both ends are stock items at McMaster. They also carry grade 8 all thread…it won’t be cheap- I remember spending over $40 on parts, but man when done, they are nice. My PO on the 65 had double nuts welded together and rods going every which way. First step to good brakes…rods you can adjust..

[Don McCombs]

This is another option...

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/br/2543fp.htm

[5 Forward]

I appreciate all the replies. It is nice to learn from those that have been there.
Glen, my brake rod and band is identical to the one in the top photo. The end that attaches to the brake pedal has the 90-degree bend. There is no adjustment on that end and both left and right side are the same. I suspect someone has modified it from the original. I might be able to cut the end and thread it for a clevis. What would be the length of the threaded rod?

[Glen]

What would be the length of the threaded rod?

Hi,
I measured 1 of the brake rods on my 1956 Cub, it is 15 1/16", just slightly over 15".

Below are pics of the brake pedal parts, where the front of the rods connect on. The rectangular pieces should be at the angle in the pics, on the right and left sides, when the pedals are up.
Someone might have changed yours, you can look at the pics.

[5 Forward]

Thanks for the info. The brake end has the clevis, and the pedal end has the 90-degree bend. Now knowing the length, I can cut my brake rods and thread the end for the clevis. I am betting these brake rods came from another model tractor and made to work. I got this tractor in a trade. I just made sure it was not locked up. I got it running. Did a compression check and all cylinders were 110 lbs. or better. After beginning to work on it has become like Christmas morning. The surprises just keep coming. The right final drive bearings are all bad and the bull gear has one half broken tooth.