Charging system

[Duwop]

So I’ve got 55 cub, been going thru charging system regulator, generator, a meter and switch that’s never charged my battery in years. The tractors system is as I bought it. The generator is a three brush with a two coil regulator but I was watch a video online that said if you have a three brush generator that you need a cut out regulator. That two brush generators get the two coil regulator. In the the electrical manual using the battery ignition diagram my dash and switches match but there is no indicator of how to wire the cut out regulator. Suggestions olease

[Jim Becker]

The cut-out systems used a generator with an adjustable third brush. The early regulator systems (I believe including 1955) used a three-brush generator with a nonadjustable third brush. If you have a generator with a fixed third brush, the two-coil regulator is correct.

[Duwop]

Thanks Jim, so I got a complete rebuild kit for my gen, but it didn’t come with insulators that go between the shoe and field coils and the ones that were originally there are no good. Are they necessary can I make my own and what material should I use.
I ask because I put it all back together ground connection to case ground to field terminal and positive to amateur and it won’t spin the motor I’m getting good spark at positive to armature. Please advise

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub parts manual shows that IH used the 3 brush, sealed generator with the voltage regulator from mid 1950, when the voltage regulator came out, until mid 1962, when they changed to a 2 brush, vented generator.
All the voltage regulators on Cubs then were the 2 coil of wire style.

The electrical system before mid 1950 used a 3 brush, sealed generator, and the cutout, or Relay IH called it, on top of the generator.

[Eugene]

Suggestions please

Consider converting to 12 volt single wire alternator. Most likely cheaper than repairing the current electrical system.

[tmays]

Suggestions please

Consider converting to 12 volt single wire alternator. Most likely cheaper than repairing the current electrical system.

I second Eugene’s suggestion

[Mht]

I agree with changing to a single wire alternator also. The generators are easy to deal with but none of the voltage regulators you can get are worth the trouble of messing with them. 12 volt batteries are also much cheaper.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks Jim, so I got a complete rebuild kit for my gen, but it didn’t come with insulators that go between the shoe and field coils and the ones that were originally there are no good. Are they necessary can I make my own and what material should I use.
I ask because I put it all back together ground connection to case ground to field terminal and positive to amateur and it won’t spin the motor I’m getting good spark at positive to armature. Please advise

Converting to 12 vols is certainly an option. On the other hand, you already have the rebuild kit and may prefer to fix what you have than rip off and replace. I've never actually removed a shoe and field coil (never needed to). So I've never had that insulator off and in my hands. I guess it is material similar to the paper inside the cover band. If I was to try making one, I would probably start with a sheet of the thinnest paper gasket material I could find. I'm not sure it is a critical part. I think the field coils should be insulated without it. Maybe someone else will chime in with a better suggestion.

Regarding your final sentence, I suggest rechecking all the connections. One end of the field connects to the third brush, the other to the "F" terminal. One main brush is grounded, the other to the "A" terminal. Pull one of the main brushes back to not contact the commutator and check the "A" terminal for a ground (it should not). Then check all 3 brushes to make sure they are in good contact with the commutator. Try your motoring test with no connection to the "F".

[Duwop]

Thanks for the suggestions about converting to 12v but I just want the tractor the way it was made. I’d already spent the cash for all the new charging system parts.

So today I took the generator apart to triple check the field and armature connections. As I hadn’t soldered the wires to the post, I had just put it a couple raps on the post. Which was what I thought was why it didn’t bench test and spin. So after soldering the connections I bench tested again and it still didn’t turn the pulley. But I went ahead and put the generator back on tractor and connected the belt, figured that with the engine spinning the generator I would the test the system. So I’m glad to post that the charging system is working as designed and I shouldn’t have to charge the battery every time I want to start the tractor.

So a big thanks for all of your suggestions and support. This forum is a great help and a great place to pose questions and get feedback. I tend to overthink things so from me to all of you THANKS