Hydraulic help - pump cavitation with loader

[ricky racer]

I don't think you need power beyond for your loader unless you want to operate the TC unit while lifting or curling your bucket at the same time. I can't really picture you doing that.

[inairam]

I don't think you need power beyond for your loader unless you want to operate the TC unit while lifting or curling your bucket at the same time. I can't really picture you doing that.

In my case with the IH 1000 I think it was a flow issue. The TC on the 130 needed the pressure to get the oil back to the pump otherwise the oil just mostly stayed in the loader's system and reservoir. When I had no power beyond to the TC I had the same issues described. They went away when I added the power beyond to the aftermarket valve. The OEM valve, which I never had in my hand, I suspect had power beyond.

When the IH 1000 was on my cub it was one circuit with the pump being from a numbered cub and hoses directly to the loader and it worked fine. If he does not want to use the TC then this would be the setup: go directly to the pump and use hoses taking the TC out of the circuit.

The bypass block puts the loader valve first in line but the pump is on the TC part of the circuit. The issue in my opinion is It is how the TC works more than anything. I do not think you can cut pressure to the TC and still use its reservoir to supply the pump.

[ricky racer]

I don't think you need power beyond for your loader unless you want to operate the TC unit while lifting or curling your bucket at the same time. I can't really picture you doing that.

In my case with the IH 1000 I think it was a flow issue. The TC on the 130 needed the pressure to get the oil back to the pump otherwise the oil just mostly stayed in the loader's system and reservoir. When I had no power beyond to the TC I had the same issues described. They went away when I added the power beyond to the aftermarket valve. The OEM valve, which I never had in my hand, I suspect had power beyond.

When the IH 1000 was on my cub it was one circuit with the pump being from a numbered cub and hoses directly to the loader and it worked fine. If he does not want to use the TC then this would be the setup: go directly to the pump and use hoses taking the TC out of the circuit.

The bypass block puts the loader valve first in line but the pump is on the TC part of the circuit. The issue in my opinion is It is how the TC works more than anything. I do not think you can cut pressure to the TC and still use its reservoir to supply the pump.

Your first hand experience certainly trumps my educated guess, that's for sure. Thanks for explaining.

[cobra2411]

Thanks for the responses. I finally got to play around with the loader some more. Between work, cold temps and bad weather it's just been sitting. I know it needs TLC and some deferred maintenance but that was factored into the price I paid...

Anyway, I think I may have found a culprit.

https://youtu.be/vz92siP2nSs

I have a rebuild kit coming as well as new cylinders mainly because I want power down. While it may work to plumb the one side of the valve back to the reservoir I don't like it. So either I got new valves for the cylinders I have or I get new cylinders. Surplus Center had some that should work perfectly for $80 each...

I'm going to see how everything does after I rebuild the pump, swap the cylinders and replumb things a bit.

One weird thing I noticed last night was that when I was lifting the bucket it generally lifted fine but I got the cavitation / aeration noise when I stopped lifting. Given the leak I'm wondering if I'm sucking air and it's aeration I hear, not cavitation. There's also a specific area when lifting while it was 20f out that it would always make noise. It was when the bucket was 20 inches off the ground. I could go back and forth from 0-18 and no problem but as soon as I hit 20 inches it would start making noise.

The TC works fine when not using the loader. When I stall the system out going full curl for example, the TC doesn't respond, but as soon as I let off the TC responds. Makes sense in my mind based on how it's plumbed. I can't say I'll ever need to use both at the same time, one at a time is fine for me. Also, the loader works one at a time as well. I occasionally need to lift something up, move it around, then put it down... So not a big deal. I'm not trying to beat the thing do death going 100mph... I'm fine taking my time.

[inairam]

I do not think that leak is the issue. When they leak it is usually the seal in the front and the oil goes into the crankcase. A rebuild will not hurt but I still think it has to do with the power beyond on the loader control valve.

[cobra2411]

We shall see. I will be keeping that in mind but I don't like trouble shooting when I know there are multiple problems that need to be fixed anyway.

I'll update as soon as I can...

[tst]

does it have enough storage in the oil tank ? almost sounds like it could be starving for oil? you said its ok for the 1st 18 " then makes the noise

[cobra2411]

It does, and it has an aux tank, but I don't like the. Plumbing. Now that I know there's a leak I'll have to check again, but when I first started the aux tank was 3/4 full.

[cobra2411]

Pump is rebuilt, new cylinders are rough mounted and I've been working on cleaning up the plumbing.

One area of concern was the aux tank to touch control reservoir being necked down and gravity fed. So I took some brass hex I had and made a new fitting. Cut the 7/8-18 threads on my 1947 Atlas lathe. I bored it out, used a tap for the 1/2" NPT side and presto - one high flow fitting...

Now if the weather would cooperate, maybe I could get it finished up... It's an ice skating rink around the tractor and I've already fallen once...

[ricky racer]

Looking good! Keep us posted.

[cobra2411]

Extra fittings....

[cobra2411]

Bought some ice cleats that you put over your boots. First set was the chain type and I think it made it worse. The second set I got has large cleats on them. They work NICE!

I was so excited to try them I went out and put the tractor back together, filled it with fluid, fired it up and...

Found out the lines to the pump are leaking at the block. I kind of worried that's what I was seeing but I wanted to believe it was the o-rings. I can see where it's pushing out of the pressure line...

So I guess I'll be picking up some flux and brazing rods and checking to see how much gas I have in the oxy/acetylene rig... I know it has to be clean. I mean like clean it again when you think it's as clean as you can get it clean... I haven't brazed steel in I forget how long, but I've done plenty of copper.

Any tips from anyone who's repaired them before? I'm somewhat lazy so I was thinking of just working them somewhat clear of the tractor but not removing them completely and doing a field repair. I figure I'll have to work most of the heat into the block and then it will just transfer to the tubes for the most part.

[Gary Dotson]

When repairing those tubes, I much prefer to silver solder them. In my opinion, brazing overheats the metal tube and will very likely be a short term repair. Silver solder works at a much lower temperature.

[ricky racer]

I agree with Gary. If it were me, I'd use silver solder. I believe that is how they were originally attached.

[SamsFarm]

You'll want to remove the lines to braze them.

You'll want to clean them before braizing, and you'll want to flush them out (clean again) after brazing them!