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48 Cub - starter grinds
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- Cub Star
- Posts: 162
- Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2021 7:22 pm
- Zip Code: 49435
- Tractors Owned: '47 Ford 2N (with '50 8N motor)
'48 Farmall Cub
C22 sickle
'52 Ferguson TO-30
'63 Farmall 560 gas with loader - Circle of Safety: Y
48 Cub - starter grinds
Greetings; I picked up this 48 Cub from a neighbor a few weeks ago. He got it in a estate sale, as a non-running 'barn find' and he did a tune up and fixed flat tires before putting a for sale sign on it. I drove it about a 1/2 mile home and parked it in the barn as I change all fluids and prepare it to be a working tractor with a C22 sickle. He told me that the starter sometimes grinds against the flywheel, but it only happened a couple of times when it was at his place. I pulled the starter and cleaned it up with dry lubricant on the bendix, but then it only engaged about one in ten times. I pulled the starter again and took it to a starter/alternator/battery shop that I frequently visit. They replaced the brushes and fixed a lose connection with a screw to the field winding wire. They indicated that they did not think the drive needed to be replaced. I also ordered parts from TM tractor and replaced the 12v battery ground cable with a cable for a 6v system. Any suggestions on what I need to do to figure out why the bendix fails to engage the flywheel? Can the teeth be cleaned up or must the tractor be split and replaced? Thanks for all the resources. Phill
- Glen
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6113
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: 48 Cub - starter grinds
Hi,
If you mean that the starter gear grinds against the flywheel ring gear, and doesn't engage, I would inspect the teeth on the ring gear.
Remove the starter, and use a good light in the starter hole, sit down beside the engine, on a lawn chair, or something, it makes it easier working there.
Mark 1 or more teeth with chalk, and slowly turn the engine, using the fan, stopping every few inches around the gear. Inspect the teeth all the way around the ring gear, until you get to the chalk marks again.
If some of the teeth look worn or battered on the front side of them, use a small flat file and file them to the right shape.
Hopefully no teeth are wornout. If there are one or more bad teeth, the ring gear would need replacing.
TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has a new ring gear.
Below is a pic showing the shape of the teeth, it should enlarge enough that you can see the teeth better. The teeth are worn some on the front edge, which is up, in the pic.
The wedged out metal should be filed off, so the teeth look the same as back farther on them.
The teeth usually have an angle cut off one edge to help the starter gear engage better, you can file those too, if needed.
If you mean that the starter gear grinds against the flywheel ring gear, and doesn't engage, I would inspect the teeth on the ring gear.
Remove the starter, and use a good light in the starter hole, sit down beside the engine, on a lawn chair, or something, it makes it easier working there.
Mark 1 or more teeth with chalk, and slowly turn the engine, using the fan, stopping every few inches around the gear. Inspect the teeth all the way around the ring gear, until you get to the chalk marks again.
If some of the teeth look worn or battered on the front side of them, use a small flat file and file them to the right shape.
Hopefully no teeth are wornout. If there are one or more bad teeth, the ring gear would need replacing.
TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has a new ring gear.
Below is a pic showing the shape of the teeth, it should enlarge enough that you can see the teeth better. The teeth are worn some on the front edge, which is up, in the pic.
The wedged out metal should be filed off, so the teeth look the same as back farther on them.
The teeth usually have an angle cut off one edge to help the starter gear engage better, you can file those too, if needed.
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 20344
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
- Zip Code: 65051
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Mo. Linn
Re: 48 Cub - starter grinds
I replaced the ring gear on my Cub a while back. Biggest part of the job is splitting the tractor.
Rather spend a lot of time filing down the teeth. Couple of options; replace the ring gear, or remove the ring gear and rotate 45 degrees.
Search this site for how to replace the ring gear.
In the mean time. Before starting tractor, rotate the engine about 1/8 to 1/4 turn of the crank shaft. This should put good/better teeth in line with the starter.
Rather spend a lot of time filing down the teeth. Couple of options; replace the ring gear, or remove the ring gear and rotate 45 degrees.
Search this site for how to replace the ring gear.
In the mean time. Before starting tractor, rotate the engine about 1/8 to 1/4 turn of the crank shaft. This should put good/better teeth in line with the starter.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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- Cub Star
- Posts: 162
- Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2021 7:22 pm
- Zip Code: 49435
- Tractors Owned: '47 Ford 2N (with '50 8N motor)
'48 Farmall Cub
C22 sickle
'52 Ferguson TO-30
'63 Farmall 560 gas with loader - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: 48 Cub - starter grinds
Thanks for the advice. I have not had a chance to work on this yet. Tonight my 560 broke down out in the field (with zero oil pressure and engine noise). I need that tractor for many tasks including keeping the snow cleared so I can respond to being on 24hr call at work. I will post details and questions in the 560 forum, but thanks for the advice on the Cub.
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2016 1:29 pm
- Zip Code: 49343
- Tractors Owned: 48 Farmall Cub "Seen Yore Dobbin"
53 F-Cub W/Loader. - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Michigan
Re: 48 Cub - starter grinds
You might look over the mounting surface of the starter.
In particular , the "angle of the dangle".
Debris , paint , a burr or seam on the casting of either mating surface on one side or the other can angle the starter.
Like many bolted items , there is play in holes before tightening.
Sometime millimeters make a difference.
You might be able to move the starter closer to the flywheel by loosening bolts , them politely thumping the starter towards it/towards center of tractor to use all the reach the holes allow.
In particular , the "angle of the dangle".
Debris , paint , a burr or seam on the casting of either mating surface on one side or the other can angle the starter.
Like many bolted items , there is play in holes before tightening.
Sometime millimeters make a difference.
You might be able to move the starter closer to the flywheel by loosening bolts , them politely thumping the starter towards it/towards center of tractor to use all the reach the holes allow.
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