Battle plan for rusty relic Cub?

[JustJim]

Hello all! I stand before you as yet another individual newly afflicted by the "Cub bug." I became infected not long ago, and now find myself doing silly things such as driving slowly along the back roads and peering into fields and barns looking for a flash of faded red paint.

Well, I've found a Cub, and will meet to attempt a purchase in a few days. It might best be described as lawn art at the moment, and has not been run in some time. What is the best work plan for such an animal?

I presume that stripping off the hood, pulling the plugs, shooting some lube into the plug holes followed by an attempt to hand cycle the engine might be a first step. Then, if not locked up, perhaps drain and replace engine oil and coolant, prime oil pump, get starting system operational and do a cranking speed compression test?

In short, I'm thinking I should concentrate on establishing that the engine has no fatal flaw before any other work. Good approach? What would you do first? What next?

As a lad, I was always working on cars or motorcycles. I haven't really done anything like that in years, and I'm really looking forward to shining up a Cub. I've been scanning the forum, but would welcome any advice you have to offer.

Thanks! Jim...

[SamsFarm]

Why do all that work?

First thing I would do is pull the dipstick and see if it has oil in it. If it has gold to black oil and no gray goo or water.

Next, check to see if it has antifreeze. (They dont get filled up to the cap, but just close to the top of that brass piece a few inches below the top of the neck!) You'll see it if you shine a light down there!

If those two look good, look in the fuel tank.. Is it rusty, chalky, or clean?

All good on those three, put some fresh gas in and try to start it up!

See if it starts up and runs around!

If it dont run, then you'll have to work at it a little more!

Most of us do not remove the hood to check or change spark plugs! The hood and gas tank is one unit!

Wanna do more, check this out......
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765

It is really a crap shoot on a non running tractor.

[JustJim]

Thank you, good info!

I'm well aware this will be a crap shoot. I've been looking for a running condition Cub for some time, but this one popped up very close to home, and the price is very low. But it has been sitting out in the open for who knows how long, and we get about 90 inches of rain a year in this area. I may be a fool to even consider it, but it wouldn't be the first foolish thing I ever did!

[SamsFarm]

Thank you, good info!

I'm well aware this will be a crap shoot. I've been looking for a running condition Cub for some time, but this one popped up very close to home, and the price is very low.

I bought a farmall BN and a C at a auction in the fall of 2019.

They were sold as non running tractors.

I had the BN running before the auction was over.

The C, well....... That is a different story!

Check it out!
viewtopic.php?f=174&t=109871

[Barnyard]

Jim, Welcome to the forum. You say the price is very low. Keep in mind that most non running Cubs are valued at about $300 to $400 unless it has implements or weights. Find a hand crank and make sure the engine will turn over. If it is locked, you may have a lot more work ahead of you than you want to take on.

Finally, let us know where you are located. There may someone here close by who can give you a hand.

[Glen]

Hi,
When looking at a Cub to buy, check for cracks in the castings, or castings that are broken, or castings that have been broken and welded.

The engine block can crack in the corner where the front end mounting is, on the right side.
Below is a pic. They can crack vertically where the blackish oil is.

The bolts holding the left final drive onto the trans can have problems with coming loose, and the threads in the housing get wornout from the bolts being loose, and people using the Cub.
There are 6 bolts in a circle holding the final drives on.
The 2 bolts at the bottom are the worst about that, that I have seen on here.

The 5/8" implement mounting holes in the clutch housing pads, and the final drives, all originally have threads in them, check to see if the threads are good, sometimes they are worn, or wornout.
Some of the holes in the final drives get broken.
Cubs came with corks in the 5/8" holes, to keep dirt out. Sometimes the corks are still there, they can look like broken off bolts, but aren't.

Cub transmissions commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.
The trans has 3 oil plugs.
The filler plug is on top of the trans, to the rear of the shifter.
The level plug is low on the left side of the trans. It should be filled only to there.
The trans holds 3 1/2 Pints of 80W-90 gear oil, up to about the later 1950's, then the manuals said to use Hy-Tran fluid, which is used in the Touch Control also. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works in IH hydraulic systems before buying it.
The drain plug is at the bottom of the trans, visible from under the platform.

The Cub owner's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.
They have lots of info.
The experts on here recommend people read one.
The Cubs changed some over the years, there are owner's manuals at the top of the page, at Cub Info, then go to Rudi's Manuals.
You can figure out the year of the Cub using the tractor serial number at Cub Info.

Good luck finding a Cub.

[Eugene]

Dollar wise, much cheaper to purchase a Cub in work ready condition.

You need to consider why it was lawn art.

The C60 Cub engine is not sleeved. Engine machine shop and new parts can cost as much as a work ready Cub.

[inairam]

The basic plan is to get it to start so you can figure out your next steps. If it casts a shadow and the engine is free you have a shot at getting it to start.

I see posts on facebook where people did all of this work ( including paint) and there were big problems with the engine or trans which would have been seen if they just got it to run first.

After it is running for a while and warm and you are moving it around under it own power you can start to go over things.

[Gary Dotson]

You really need to know if the engine is free before you agree to a purchase price. It can mean the difference between a $200 parts tractor and a $400 possible runner. Otherwise, you seem to have a basic idea what to do with it. And, yes, you're almost always ahead to find one that runs, that you can actually start and drive before purchase. Don't worry, there will still be plenty attention needed so you can get your fix of working on it. Spending a little more up front can save you a lot, in the long run.

[Eugene]

During your prepurchase inspection, check out the condition of the rear tires and rims. Expensive items to replace.

[Waif]

Fluid types and levels...Looking for water.
If your area freezes , weather an break things. 90 inches of rain hints of more rain than snow though..

Is the exhaust covered? A good sign vs no cover...

The above lists are good. You want a free turning engine and workable transmission. Good solid bones/castings.
I'll add ...Be sure the clutch is not frozen up.

A hand crank (as mentioned above) can tell if the engine is free.
With a magneto system it can also tell you if the magneto clicks twice per full revolution. No guarantee of it working , but a start.

You're looking for a first Cub.
IF you have storage room and this one is solid , you could bank it for parts or as a project.
That takes patience if a project...
If it is going to take a full barrel or turd polish on a common version/model, it needs to be danged cheap pricing to acquire the tractor.
Or your labor cost/value will come out to if you had found two running tractors in the first place , if you're patient in locating them.

[JimCub48]

From a little different perspective, I feel it depends on what you want to accomplish. If your want it for a project , just make sure you have good bones as they say. No cracks, welds, good tin , wheels, ect ,whether it's a runner or non runner engine stuck or free. The cost of replacement parts, whether you want a working tractor,or a trailer queen should help you figure want to pay for a project cub. If your doing it for a project enjoyment, it's probably not as important how must time it will take you to get it the way you want it. Good for thought !!

[SONNY]

I envision a $100 parts tractor here with no chance of it ever running! lol! ---dont expect anything from it and you wont be disappointed in it! IF price is low enough grab it for a parts tractor and hope for the best.

[JustJim]

Thank you all so very much for the great info and opinions! I will have a chance to look at this again tomorrow, when I can talk to the current owner. it has a belly mower on it, which I think will come with it.

I have a shiny new Kubota L series tractor for work, which consists mostly of gravel road maintenance and skidding out trees as well as carrying bucked rounds up to the house for splitting and stacking. So any vintage iron is just for tinkering around with and driving around our gravel roads when I probably should be working instead.

This gent has a Massey Harris Pony which looks pretty good, and is supposed to be running well. The Pony is sweet, but I really want a Cub, so I have been considering this old relic as I have not found anything else even remotely close. But you fellows have convinced me to give this a more critical look.

Thanks again!

[ntrenn]

Good luck with your inspection.

I bought a parts tractor about 6 years ago with a stuck engine, a bare metal hood and a woods 59. It had good rubber and more better parts than my regular tractor. It was really ragged out mechanically, but after getting it unstuck, it’s been my primary mower for the last 5 years. You could get lucky. You could be getting a money pit.

Set your expectations low along with your price and then take a big drink of patience and go from there.