My Head is Cracked!

[allenlook]

Thanks DF,

After way too many weeks with the carb rebuild, the steel fuel line manufacturing adventure, and the head replacement, it feels good to hear it "purr" again.

These little tractors are "amazing". They can put up with my amateurish tinkerings and still run!

[John(videodoc)]

definately congrats, i remember that feeling with basket case. what a feeling

[Donny M]

I'm no math major but the torque value should have been 540 inch pounds

[allenlook]

I went for the high side of the specified range, 45-50 ft. lbs., figuring there are 12 in. lbs. to a ft. lb....

45 ft. lbs. = 540 in. lbs.
50 ft. lbs. = 600 in. lbs.

All I had was a rudimentary beam-style torque wrench. My nice monster digital wrench was loaned out and it took me over a year to get it back, only to find it had been stored at the previous setting, which probably threw off the calibration.

[sviennadan]

I was out pushing snow this morning, and noticed some steam cominfrom around the head at the 2nd spark plug. Looks like I may have a cracked head too. Too *@#% cold out now, with that wind howling, to work on it. Meanwhile I have been recxonditioning my sickle bar, in anticipation of the coming spring...I think Phil saw his shadow, so it's still 6 weeks off.

[George Willer]

Congratulations on solving the problem. One thing to keep in mind... warping of the head is greatly overblown. If you would put a few strategically placed dial indicators on the head while torqueing it down, you'd swear it was made of rubber. Unless it has nicks in it from careless handling, surfaceing is usually not necessary. The head is simply too flexible to need it.

Certainly, re-torqueing should be done after it has run a short while. You'll be surprised how much farther you have to go to get back to 45 Ft./Lbs after it has been through a heat cycle.

[allenlook]

SV,

Sorry to hear that I figure mine cracked while I was plowing too...

GW,

How long would you say I should give it? Sounds like it should be run for a while, or through a number of warm-up, cool-down cycles?

[Rudi]

George:

Certainly, re-torqueing should be done after it has run a short while. You'll be surprised how much farther you have to go to get back to 45 Ft./Lbs after it has been through a heat cycle.

If a little puddle of oil was to appear, say sometime after the 10-hour re-torque was missed -- Dripping oil stopped about 2 seconds after engine shut down... no visible cracks no more leaks... would I be safe to assume I am still ok, or have I just toasted all my work????

[George Willer]

George:

Certainly, re-torqueing should be done after it has run a short while. You'll be surprised how much farther you have to go to get back to 45 Ft./Lbs after it has been through a heat cycle.

If a little puddle of oil was to appear, say sometime after the 10-hour re-torque was missed -- Dripping oil stopped about 2 seconds after engine shut down... no visible cracks no more leaks... would I be safe to assume I am still ok, or have I just toasted all my work????

Rudi,

I don't see how dripping oil would be related to head torque. I also don't see any reason not to re-torque at any time, just to be sure. Let's assume all is right for now. It's easier to sleep that way.

[Rudi]

George:

As always, THANKS

[allenlook]

I bought some AlumiWeld the other day at Harbor Freight. It's supposed to flow at low temperature into cracks and what-not and repair them...

I want to try it with this head, but for the life of me I can't find - for certain - the ends of the hairline crack in the head.

Does anyone have a trick for making that crack stand out, I don't have a supply of ZyGlo in the barn