ID this Sickle Mower??

[DrLandraceFarmer]

Hi all- I'm hoping that someone who knows more about sickle mowers can ID this from the pic. Right one for the cub? I think it looks like a maybe??

It is for sale near me and I'm trying to figure out if it is worth the drive. The current owner doesn't know anything about it. I have a belly mower now, but a sickle mower would help on the edge of the lake. If you can't tell form the picture (only one I can get), what would I look for to verify if I go take a look at it?

Thanks for any input!!

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I do not see the brackets that attach it to the torque tube. The width of them would tell if it is for a cub or A series. Also, do not forget the pto pulley, they are not exactly cheap to purchase.

[radioguy41]

The hangers don't look quite right but it is difficult to tell.

Click image to enlarge.

[Jim Becker]

I think it looks more like a #22 for a 140 than something for a Cub. A lot is missing unless he has another pile of pieces somewhere else. What is there looks pretty poor anyway.

[radioguy41]

If you fill in your location perhaps someone nearby might have what you need.

[Barnyard]

Looks like he might be near Alabaster, Alabama.

If all he has is what is in the pic, I would probably pass. I don't see the drive pulley, the pitman arm or the pto pulley. If this had been laying outside for a while, you will have a fight on your hands getting it freed up.

[tst]

its not for a cub, but for a larger model

[DrLandraceFarmer]

Thanks for all the info- looks like a pass from the feedback. Just didn't want to miss an opportunity, if it was worth a look.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is the operator's manual for the 22 Mowers, it has lots of info. It shows how to install the mowers on the tractors.
It is for 3 different mowers for 3 different models of IH tractors. One fits the A series, 140, one fits the Cub, and one fits the Cub LoBoy.
The Introduction beginning on page 2 explains them.

The mountings are different for the 3 mowers.
The PTOs run at different speeds. The PTO on the 140 goes slower than the PTOs on the Cub and LoBoy mowers, so the pullies are different also.
Read through it, and look at the pics, and you can identify which one fits which tractor.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

Below are pics from TM Tractor showing a Cub 22 Mower on a Cub.
They don't all have the style of rear belt guard shown in the pics, there was a different rear belt guard used later.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gim/cub22_001.htm

If you buy a Cub 22 Mower, it may use the IH tapered head bolts to hold it on the clutch housing, and at the rear, at the final drive.
If the area at the bolt holes on the mower brackets are countersunk, it needs the IH bolts.
The bolts help keep the mower from becoming loose on the mountings from the vibration.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor for the bolts. You can look at the pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gb/324fp.htm

The mower uses 1 at the rear, it is longer. The drawbar is supposed to stay on the Cub when using the mower. The other rear bolt is a regular bolt.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/445fp.htm

The bolt holes have to have good threads. Sometimes the threads are wornout.
People on here have put repair coils in the threads.

Tighten the bolts tight, with a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket, and check them during use, they can loosen.

The bolt at the front bar, that holds the end in the square hole should be a setscrew, so it holds onto the bar in the square hole. The setscrew has an end made to dig into the square bar, and hold it in place.
The setscrew should have a lock nut too.
It's not good if the bolt loosens, and the end falls out of the square hole when you are mowing.
The setscrew should be checked for tightness some during use too, it can wear into the bar end, and be loose.

Below is a pic of a setscrew to use.

[Gary Dotson]

Cub 22 mowers are not that difficult to find, I would hold out for a complete, working unit.

[halftonstude]

I ordered new set screws for mine 1/2” longer. Kept the square head but the bracket that mounts into the bolster on mine was rough so after flattening to get the marks out I thought the screws were bottoming out and even my thin jam nuts were too thick. Cup point square head hardened steel is what I got as I had to drill out one that was not only rusted but the end was rounded and the threads buggered up. Had to helicoil the hole it was so bad but I like the new screws now

[SamsFarm]

If that mower is cheap enough, it might be worth having around for the parts!

Save it from the scrap heap!

[SONNY]

got complete one here on tractor thats up for grabs