Swapping Rockshaft on Touch Control

[Ct Cub]

I have a 52 standard Cub. I recently bought a fast hitch for it including the helper spring. My TC doesn't have the inner rock shaft arm as it is an early TC. I found a guy that has the larger diameter rockshaft with inner and outer rockshaft on left side. He mentioned that I may have to lift the TC off the block to get the bearing bolts in on the larger unit. Does anyone have any knowledge if I have to remove the TC to mount the larger diameter diameter bearing blocks to the front of the TC. I dont have a new gasket and will have to get one if I need to remove the unit.

Tim

[Dale Finch]

First, even if you do remove the touch control block, there is NO gasket on the bottom...only 4 bolts hold it onto the clutch housing.

In my opinion, even if possible, it would still be easier to do the swap after removing it. You might even consider replacing the small o-ring on the control rod while you have it out and partially dismantled.

[Ct Cub]

Dale
I am looking at detail #44 showing a gasket. Does that not stay on tractor if I remove the four bolts?

[Bob McCarty]

The gasket is held in place by part #45. Those bolt heads fit into the recesses in the bell housing/torque tube. The 4 mounting bolts are on the corners of the main block.

[Ct Cub]

Bob
Does this mean I can remove the four bolts and lift up to remove the cap screws holding on the bearing blocks for the rockshaft and not lose any fluid or the integrity of the seal to the clutch housing?

Tim

[Bob McCarty]

There is no integrity to the clutch housing, so you won't affect the seal in the bottom. In order to lift the TC block, you'll need to remove the manifold pipes and that will necessitate draining in the block first. Remove the fill plug before removing the drain plug. Otherwise, there may be fluid under pressure that will squirt you about belt level (I speak from experience!).

[Ct Cub]

Thanks for the experience !!!!

[Glen]

Hi,
The Touch Control doesn't seal to the clutch housing, it has a cover on the bottom of the unit held on with 10 bolts. They are 5/16" bolts.
The bottom cover is number 45 in the parts pic in your post above.

The gasket is between the unit and the bottom cover.
If you remove the unit, check the tightness of the bottom cover bolts.

If you have the unit completely off the Cub, you could remove the bottom cover and clean the strainer screen in the unit. The screen can't be removed from the bottom, but it can be cleaned.
It slides out the head end, that is the rear end of the unit.
Don't disturb the head end unless you are going to rebuild the unit.

Below is a listing from TM Tractor for a new strainer, you can look at the pics and see what it is.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/918fp.htm

The strainer is number 16 in the parts pic above.

If you remove the bottom cover to clean the strainer, it probably needs a new bottom gasket.
Below is a listing for a new bottom gasket.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/471fp.htm

I would put a thin layer of sealer on the new gasket, it might help prevent seeping over time.
Clean all fluid off the metal sealing surfaces first.

You may need a new gasket where the tubes connect to the side of the Touch Control.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/310fp.htm

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the bottom of a Touch Control.

[Dale Finch]

While you have the block off, in addition to replacing the control valve o-ring, you might also clean out the orifice assembly (#32 below):
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Parts%20Manuals/TC-37F%20Revision%203/Group%2010%20-%20Hydraulics/Page%2010-05.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Parts%20Manuals/TC-37F%20Revision%203/Group%2010%20-%20Hydraulics/Page%2010-06.jpg

[Ct Cub]

Thanks Glen...that picture tells me everything I was asking. I appreciate everyone’s help as this is only my second cub and I have never messed with the TC system.

Tim

[Glen]

Hi,
Here is info about replacing the Control Valve o ring, that Dale was discussing above.

If the Touch Control leaks from the front of the unit, the Control Valve o ring could be wornout, and need replacing.

I guess yours doesn't leak, but if it's never been replaced, when you have the rockshaft off is a good time to replace it.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor showing a new Control Valve o ring, it is a Case IH part, it says. There is a pic there showing where it is.
They have said on here that the o ring is a special size.

The valve pulls out the front of the block. You don't need to remove the Touch Control head, on the rear of the block, to replace the control valve o ring.
You may need to remove the 4 bolts that hold the unit onto the clutch housing, the tubes, and the control lever rod, and turn it to the left to get the valve out. You have to lift it some, the bolt heads for the bottom cover would keep it from turning to the side. Or you can remove the unit and set it on your work bench.
You would probably need to remove the starter rod, and the choke rod to remove the unit.
Drain the system first, like the owner's manual says, remove the filler plug, then the drain plug.

Whenever disassembling a Touch Control, it should be clean. Don't allow any dirt or grit inside the unit.
If you need to replace the o ring, clean the area well, and use plenty of Hy-Tran fluid on the o ring and valve, when putting the o ring on the valve, and when putting the valve into the unit again.
Feel the area around the hole for the valve in the block, be sure it is smooth and clean.
Smooth it with fine sandpaper if it is rough.
Any roughness can cut the new o ring.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/674fp.htm

When you get it to work, remember to fill the unit the last time with the arms in the rear or down position, like the Cub operator's manual says.

Below is a post I made about checking and changing the Touch Control fluid.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=106664

Dale, your 2 links above don't work on my computer.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the front of a Touch Control, with the rockshaft off.
The Control Valve is at the lower right, right in the pic.

[Dale Finch]

Thanks, Glen! Fixed the link...forgot to insert with the url thing!

[Ct Cub]

Thank you guys. Removed TC and took off the early rock shaft. Picked up the later one with inner rock shaft to connect helper spring for fast hitch. No surprises thanks to your help. I did find that when removing the rear right TC bolt that my clutch pedal wore through my hot wire to starter. Have to fix that one !!!!

[Cubfriend]

There is a metal shield that is supposed to be on the starter cable to keep from rubbing a hole through it. I think TM Tractor has them. Good idea to keep the sparkies away.

[Dale Finch]

There is this clip, that bolts to the tank support/dash, two versions:
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/522fp.htm
OR
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/534fp.htm

But there is another one that is just flat metal, bent around the battery cable and tailight wire, which is wedged between the clutch pedal and the clutch housing. This prevents chafing of the cable by the movement of the clutch pedal. You could easily make one if you cannot find one.