64 cub restore

[Pops64]

Its been a long time since I have viewed this Forum. I'm in process of restoring my dads 64 cub, it was handed down to me. He passed away in September. We both always wanted to restore it but just never got around to doing it. This will be in his honor. I'm sure ill have questions to ask you guys, especially on timing and wiring. My cub knowledge isn't close compared to my dads. I wish I could call him for his guidance. It's a 12v red with white hood. SN 224526J. When it's complete I'll post a photo. Thanks

[Bob McCarty]

Welcome to the Forum. Let us know if we can be of any help.

[Pops64]

Thank you.

[tst]

that is a good one to have, early 64 red and white are kinda rare, good luck

[k hutchins]

Welcome, l think it's a great thing you're doing. My condolences about your dad. I'm sure it'll be a great tribute when done.

[Peter Person]

You’ve got a rare Cub there.
S/N 224401-224703 were the 12V Farmall Cubs. Only 303 made.
Red tractor, white hood. Lots of good posts about these “rare” Cubs.
Looking forward to seeing the progress in it.
Peter

[Pops64]

Update on my restore. I have it about 80% complete, at least to my standards which are lower than what some of you guys have. I have changed the bearings and seals in the differentials and final drives with new gaskets. Pulled the head and checked the valves and pistons. They all seemed to be good at least to what knowledge I have. Changed all the fluids, added the Volt meter and light switch. But new gasket under the radiator, (really didn't need it but since it was all torn apart why not) rebuild the carb, all new hoses, Put new coil, points, condenser, and painted everything back to the original colors. Put new decals on it, (looks good) I still have to put the lights back on it, (waiting to get sealed lamps) I was thinking about just using LED lights, Still undecided, want be original but the led light are much better. Dad had already put a alternator on it but is wasn't working. I didn't really want to put a generator on it so I purchased a new one wire from Napa to put on, but I need brackets to make it work, My brothers will help me with this tomorrow. They are masters of Iron arts and fabrication. Put new front tires on it also. It cranked right up, but has little miss when I rev the engine, This is where i need your help. Runs smooth as can be a lower idle, but when I advance the throttle it misses or just doesn't appear to be running smooth. I have moved the distributor around some just messing with the timing, moving it counter clock wise back toward the engine all the way it runs the best. Moving it down from that point it get worse and shuts down if i move it more that an inch. I did pull the distributor out when I added the tune up kit. When i had the head pulled, i made sure #1 was TDC, then reinstalled the distributor, I made sure the rotor button pointing at the #1 plug wire. If i remember correctly the tractor was doing this when dad parked a few years ago. The engine compression is good, it was the first thing I checked before I started the restore. 118, 115, 118 and 113. Where else should I look to get it running smooth at higher throttle?

[Eugene]

Ignition timing.

I think you are off one tooth when you reinstalled the distributor.

And than your ignition timing procedure is not quite right.

Search function, above right, for instructions.

[Pops64]

Thanks, how should I move it one tooth? Do you mean pull the distributor out and turn it slightly one way or another and reinstall?

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub owner's manual says to determine number 1 TDC, remove the number 1 spark plug, and put your thumb over the hole, turn the engine until you feel pressure coming out of the hole, then check the timing marks on the front pulley, and slowly turn the engine until the marks are aligned.

Below is a page from the Cub service manual showing the timing marks a 1964 Cub would have. Align mark number 1 in the pic with the pointer. Maybe you knew this already.
They are talking about other subjects on the page, use only the pic, and words under it.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-43.jpg

Check the rotor position, it should be pointed to the upper right, where the number 1 spark plug wire post should be.
If after doing the above, the rotor points to the wrong position, you will need to remove the 2 bolts and clips holding the distributor to the base. Then pull the distributor out of the base, until the gears are free, then turn the shaft and rotor until it is pointed to the number 1 position on the cap, put the distributor in again, and put the clips and bolts in again.
When it is out, you could check the gear for condition, clean it if needed, and put some grease on the teeth.
When putting it in, the distributor is originally turned so the small post on the side of it is facing to the right. Then number 1 on the cap is at the upper right.

The Cub service manual says use a timing light to set the timing. It should be set so the number 1 mark in the pic above aligns with the pointer at slow idle speed, 500 RPM.

When the timing is set right, if it still runs bad, the coil could be bad, and making a weak spark, a sort of common problem.
You could do a spark test. Remove the center ignition wire from the distributor cap, and hold it by the insulation with the end about 1/4" from a bare place on the engine. Turn the ignition to on, and run the starter, the spark should jump about 1/4", and be strong and blue. A yellow spark is weak, and the engine may not run, or run right.
Have the battery fully charged for the test.
A bad coil could be why it ran bad in the past, but it needs testing to know, if it doesn't run normally after setting the timing.

[BSR]

Heres 1 that (( tst )) Form member did a nut bolt restoration job on. Its better than new!!!

[Rick Spivey]

Just one other thing to check, the guys are probably right about timing being a bit off. But you should also check the idle air mixture screw. It is on top of the IH carb, angled in toward the throat. A good starting point is 1 1/2 turns out, bottom it only with light pressure or you will mess up the seating surfaces. It should idle well with no black smoke. Then using your hand, open the carb butterfly (using the linkage) very quickly. The governor will fight you, but the engine should rev up with no hesitation or stumble. Adjust the screw until you get it the best you can, The screw is controlling air flow, not gas, so "in" is richer, "out" is leaner. If that screw makes no difference in how the engine runs, then your small idle passageways are plugged in the carburetor body.

[inairam]

I use these for the sealed beam 12-volt lights. https://www.larsenlights.com/par-36-flu ... lood-light. Close to original but they give you a lot of light.


Did you check the governor to carb linkage and adjust it per the manual? Also, adjust the valves. These two are usually missed but make for a complete tune-up in my opinion.

[Eugene]

Check the ignition timing with a timing light, low idle, then high idle, before you remove and reinstall the distributor. This will tell you if the ignition timing is correct and that the mechanical advance is working.

Also, check the Operator's Manual for lubrication locations. Ignition, under the rotor is a felt tab that requires a drop of oil. This lubricates the advance mechinism.

A tip. Mark the location of the #1 spark plug tower on the distributor base. When installing the distributor; distributor rotation centered, rotor pointing at the mark. Then check the location of the points rubbing block and the cam lobe. Rotate the distributor slightly/just barely counter clockwise, then back slightly. Points should the slightly opening and closing.

It may take several trys to get the distributor timing set to the engine. Once that happens you need to static time the ignition to the engine. Engine starts and runs, timing light for final adjustment.

Check the point's gap. .020.

[Pops64]

Thanks everyone, the advice has helped me u understand the timing a little better. I have it running a little better now, I’m still tinkering with it until I get it just right.