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Hydraulic fluid leaking into oil pan
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2009 10:55 pm
- Zip Code: 40165
- Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub, 1958 International Lo Boy, 1961 Cub, 1962 LoBoy,
- Location: Shepherdsville, KY
Hydraulic fluid leaking into oil pan
A couple of weeks ago I brought home a nice running 1962 Loboy. Never restored or touched up and had not been used in several years. I noticed the oil level was high when I checked it out and the touch control didn't work. The seller added some hydro fluid to the tractor and the control worked. After using the tractor some the hydro fluid is low again the there are no obvious leaks, so I am guessing the hydro fluid in leaking into the oil pan. How difficult is the fix for this? I will being doing this fix myself and appreciate the wisdom of those who know how. Thanks.
Mike
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- Team Cub
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Re: Hydraulic fluid leaking into oil pan
You'll need to pull off the pump and replace the o-ring seal on the shaft. Here's a link to a "how to": viewtopic.php?f=141&t=44196: . You probably don't need to do a complete rebuild, but can skip down to where the pump is open after removing the gear and you replace the o-ring. You'll need to drain the block, remove the manifold tubes and then remove the pump. TM sells the o-ring and gaskets separately.
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- Glen
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
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- Location: Wa.
Re: Hydraulic fluid leaking into oil pan
Hi,
Here is some info about the Touch Control pump.
To remove the pump, you have drain the system first. Remove the filler plug on the Touch Control, then the drain plug. You can run the engine briefly, like the operator's manual says, to empty the tubes.
You have to remove the tubes to remove the pump from the engine.
The tubes have 3 bolts at the upper end, and 2 bolts hold them onto the pump.
You might have to loosen the exhaust system, and move it some, if the exhaust pipe is over the bolts holding the upper end of the tubes on the unit.
The exhaust pipe is in the way on some of them, some of them it is not in the way.
There is a gasket at the upper end of the tubes, and 2 o rings at the lower end of the tubes, the gasket and o rings come in the pump rebuild kit from TM Tractor, it showed in their info.
2 of the 4 bolts in the pump hold the pump on the engine. Looking forward from the rear, they are the upper left, and the lower right bolts. Don't remove the other 2 bolts before getting the pump to a clean work bench, it can fall apart. You can loosen them while it is on the engine.
The lock washer holding the nut on at the pump gear has to be good, to keep the nut from coming off during use. It bends over 1 flat of the nut. You have to bend the lock washer away from the nut to remove the nut. If the lock washer is still good, you can use it again.
It has to have the little tab that goes into the keyway, to prevent the nut from turning. Sometimes the tab breaks off, some people on here have said. If the tab is broken it needs a new lock washer.
Below is a new lock washer at TM Tractor, you can see what it looks like.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/562fp.htm
The pump shaft where the o ring runs has to be flat and in good condition. Sometimes the shaft wears, and there is a groove. If there is a groove, it needs repair. It may need smoothing with fine sandpaper.
Use plenty of clean Hy-Tran fluid when putting the pump together.
Below are pages from the 1955 Cub operator's manual, showing the parts of the system, and how to check or change the fluid.
On the 2nd page, be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4, to remove the air from the system. The arms should go through their full travel.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-65.jpg
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-67.jpg
The pump rebuild How To that Bob posted above has lots of info.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the pump gear, nut, and the lock washer.
Here is some info about the Touch Control pump.
To remove the pump, you have drain the system first. Remove the filler plug on the Touch Control, then the drain plug. You can run the engine briefly, like the operator's manual says, to empty the tubes.
You have to remove the tubes to remove the pump from the engine.
The tubes have 3 bolts at the upper end, and 2 bolts hold them onto the pump.
You might have to loosen the exhaust system, and move it some, if the exhaust pipe is over the bolts holding the upper end of the tubes on the unit.
The exhaust pipe is in the way on some of them, some of them it is not in the way.
There is a gasket at the upper end of the tubes, and 2 o rings at the lower end of the tubes, the gasket and o rings come in the pump rebuild kit from TM Tractor, it showed in their info.
2 of the 4 bolts in the pump hold the pump on the engine. Looking forward from the rear, they are the upper left, and the lower right bolts. Don't remove the other 2 bolts before getting the pump to a clean work bench, it can fall apart. You can loosen them while it is on the engine.
The lock washer holding the nut on at the pump gear has to be good, to keep the nut from coming off during use. It bends over 1 flat of the nut. You have to bend the lock washer away from the nut to remove the nut. If the lock washer is still good, you can use it again.
It has to have the little tab that goes into the keyway, to prevent the nut from turning. Sometimes the tab breaks off, some people on here have said. If the tab is broken it needs a new lock washer.
Below is a new lock washer at TM Tractor, you can see what it looks like.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/562fp.htm
The pump shaft where the o ring runs has to be flat and in good condition. Sometimes the shaft wears, and there is a groove. If there is a groove, it needs repair. It may need smoothing with fine sandpaper.
Use plenty of clean Hy-Tran fluid when putting the pump together.
Below are pages from the 1955 Cub operator's manual, showing the parts of the system, and how to check or change the fluid.
On the 2nd page, be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4, to remove the air from the system. The arms should go through their full travel.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-65.jpg
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-67.jpg
The pump rebuild How To that Bob posted above has lots of info.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the pump gear, nut, and the lock washer.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2009 10:55 pm
- Zip Code: 40165
- Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub, 1958 International Lo Boy, 1961 Cub, 1962 LoBoy,
- Location: Shepherdsville, KY
Re: Hydraulic fluid leaking into oil pan
Thank you both for the info. I am not sure when I will start this project, but definitely before spring.
Mike
- trekrider69
- 5+ Years
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- Joined: Thu Mar 21, 2019 7:15 pm
- Zip Code: 47240
- Tractors Owned: 1972 CC149 “66 clone”
1970 JD110
1947 fCub w/ C3 mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: SE Indiana
Re: Hydraulic fluid leaking into oil pan
Masmith look up rickyracer’s post on Adding a lip seal to the pump. I followed his procedure in fixing mine last spring and have mowed all summer with no leaks. My pump shaft had a bad groove in it and with this procedure I didn’t worry about a new o ring not doing the job.
KB9CIY
- Dadsfarmalls
- Cub Star
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- Tractors Owned: 1945 Farmall M
1948 Farmall Cub
1955 Farmall 200
1965 IH Cub
Re: Hydraulic fluid leaking into oil pan
I had this problem with my 65, I ended up doing a video of doing a rebuild on the pump so if I had to do it again I would remember how lol. It's really not a very difficult job if you have to do it. The shaft on mine was worn a bit and I got a lot of great suggestions on possible fixes in the below thread. Hope these help.
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewto ... 1&t=107284
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewto ... 1&t=107284
- Dale Finch
- 10+ Years
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'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: Hydraulic fluid leaking into oil pan
That was VERY well done! Although I have done this before, it was a great review...concise, methodical, and everything kept clean, which is SO important. (certainly appealed to my OCD!! )
Thanks for taking the time and doing this video. I'm assuming this will be filed in the HOW TO section!
Thanks for taking the time and doing this video. I'm assuming this will be filed in the HOW TO section!
- Bill Hudson
- Team Cub
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Re: Hydraulic fluid leaking into oil pan
Dale Finch wrote:That was VERY well done! ...
You betcha!!!
Bill
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