68 Cub Rebuild in progress

[cavingreer]

I've been tasked with fixing my Father-In-Law's 68 Cub. It's been heavily used, fairly abused, and has sat idle for about 5 years.
Sadly other than the electrical this tractor is in worse shape than my 49 that sat idle for 20 years. I was able to redo my electric, tinker a little and get mine running, THEN start rebuilding things over time. This one's got a few major roadblocks to even running.
He used to do a lot of gardening with it but at this point it's going to be his mower.

I'm posting pics in this Google album https://photos.app.goo.gl/aTYbBWAMxZnwcSF9A so anyone can see them without having to resize and all for the forum. So far I've gotten the hood off and pressure washed to get a look at it. Here's the findings so far and questions I'm hoping some of you can answer after looking at the photos:

The sediment bowl is gone, replaced with a galvanized elbow, shut off valve, rubber fuel line and adapters at the carb.
(which coincidentally are all completely stopped up)
I'm wondering if the threads at the tank are even original so I can replace the bowl.
The carb is beat to death so that's an automatic replacment.

The throttle was completely locked up. Turns out the control rod pivot was locked solid onto the shaft.
I got that loose yesterday and in the process of cleaning that all up so all I'll need is the gasket to remount it.
While trying to get it on TDC before removing the governor cap I couldn't get compression on #1. But after some spraying and turning the valves loosened up and I got pressure.

Obviously a tune-up kit. Points, rotor, cap, plugs and wires. There was actually a dirt dauber nest in the cap and I had to get out the 1/2" breaker bar to get the plugs out because they were rusted/baked in so bad.
Also the bypass he did to the coil hot line. Pop's the WORST for rigging and butchering electrical. Looks like the key switch wire broke/shorted, so he just bypassed that with a hot wire from the battery, across the tractor/lift works and everything and just tied bare into the coil wire. Plus he cut the light wires off and just left them hanging. I'm just going to chase that out and remove, replace the key switch and fix the wire as it should have been.

Hoses are all dry-rotted - no brainer.

Oil filter, plus the gasket and bolt gasket washer. Looks like it's been leaking around the cap for a long time.
The oil pan appears to be leaking so hopefully that's not a difficult swap out? I didn't have to do mine.

The mule-drive idler pulleys. One was locked up the other working. Funny thing is I just lost one last week trying to mow before the hurricane and didn't finish. Ordered a pair from Agri-Supply thanks to an old thread here (THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE!!). So yesterday I borrowed his working one and finished my mowing, and once I make sure the replacements are right I can just order a new pair for his.

Aaaannd finally the big boy - The hydraulic block control is froze solid. I actually rebuilt mine so not a problem.
However I have one really odd problem. Mine has started leaking from the bottom gasket since the rebuild. Any ideas what I did wrong so I can undo it and not do that again?

So TONS of fixing before this old cub is mowing again, but doesn't look like anything that can't be fixed.
As always I appreciate suggestions and guidance from everyone!

[Jim Becker]

The threads in the tank were originally pipe threads. It looks like the current fittings are pipe threads, so you should be able to go back to a sediment bowl without problems. Some people prefer a shutoff like you currently have. But I would probably get rid of the rubber hose.

This carburetor looks thoroughly beaten on. However, it may still be repairable into a better carb than some of the currently available replacements.

[cavingreer]

I have to say I worried over getting a replacement for my carb last year when I was swapping out the hood/tank. My threads were ruined and I wound up giving one of those aftermarket replacements a try and so far it hasn't given me a single problem

[Don McCombs]

Notwithstanding not being able to see inside the carburetor, I would say that it can probably be resurrected.

[ntrenn]

I wish you tons of luck. Yours looks similar to my 65 Loboy. Just one success at a time and you will be mowing sooner than you think. You will shake your head and say PO in disgust a thousand times before you are done. It will come to you faster than you can imagine.

[Glen]

Hi,
The oil pan bolts might just need tightening, and it might slow the leaking some.
Don't tighten them hard, it can bend the oil pan.
The 3 bolts across the rear of the pan are hard to get at, you have to remove the cover held on with the 4 bolts to get to the pan bolts.
Tighten the 3 bolts gently, they go into the rear seal retainer. It is soft metal.

I would try spraying penetrating oil on the linkages at the front of the Touch Control, and wherever the lever parts are not moving, see if it will move after soaking.

It might help to put sealer on the gasket on the bottom cover on the Touch Control.
The gaskets may seep over time with no sealer.

[cavingreer]

Update 09/29/2020 -
@ntrenn Yep I went through all this (and still am a bit) with my 48-49 cub and it's mowing quite well. I actually just had to order the replacement mule drive idler pulleys.
I got the whole parts list together and told Pop it was going to cost about $600 in parts and he gave me the OK so we're go to start.
I pulled the governor and the rockshaft was completely seized, but with some work I got it loose, all cleaned up and just waiting for the gasket and the oil seal for the carb control shaft to put it back together.
The touch control valve still will not free up after many sprayings and gentle working/tapping so it's going to have to come off.
My only problem is I can't identify the block. The date and model codes have been destroyed. Looks like it was brazed over or something but there's almost nothing left of the numbers.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/uxZ5MVMv8nfNWKc89
It looks just like the block on mine except the fill cap is a headed bolt and mine is a pipe plug.
Anyone know a way to ID it without tearing it apart?

[Jim Becker]

The original Touch-Control on a '68 would have been 360719R1. The matching patina strongly suggests it has never been changed. The straight-threaded plug indicates one of the later blocks. All considered, I'd assume it is 360719R1 and go on until something proves otherwise. It looks like your original markings have been lost to rust.

[cavingreer]

I believe the tractor is all original and that should be the block on it. They've painted it at some point but that's about all. I'll go ahead and order the kit for that block and if I find different once I tear it down I'll swap it

[Glen]

Hi,
IH changed the location of the Touch Control block part number at some time. The parts manual doesn't say when, that I have seen.
It was sometime during the later Cubs, I think.
Below is a pic showing where it is, inside the front of the block, near the cylinder.
You could use a light, and see if the number is there on yours.

[Tezell]

I would get it running and take a hammer to the rocker arm on the the touch control. With the tractor running hit it hard with the hammer and when it starts to move work the controls back and forth and I bet it will free up. I would try that before I rebuilt it. I have had that work before. Just saying what I would do. Let us know.

[Tezell]

Make sure it has fluid in it.

[cavingreer]

Good call Glen! Dang why the heck would they put it in there?

[cavingreer]

Today was the first day I got to start putting new things on! Got the governor back together with a new oil seal and case seal.
I'm 90% certain I have it back on correctly. Per everyone's instructions I set it on TDC before removing and have not moved the motor since.
I did run into one thing I didn't expect. As I was cleaning and checking the block before putting it back in I got ahold of the distributor shaft and almost pulled it out. After studying it a bit I put it back to #1 and carefully got the governor back in with it in the same position.
The only thing that concerns me is the throttle tension is so tight the control lever doesn't want to go higher than the middle of the rack, but I'm going to leave it all be until I get to the point of cranking it. I also got the new plugs, wires, condenser, points and coil on and set the point gap.
I think I'm going to do the hydraulics next because I recall it being a PITA to get the tubes in place while my carb was on the tractor.
Pics of today's work are in the photo album - https://photos.app.goo.gl/aTYbBWAMxZnwcSF9A

[Glen]

Hi,
It looks like in your pics you took the throttle arm off the governor shaft. Lube the shaft, it should turn freely on the shaft.
It looks like the high speed limit adjustment bolt is set too low. That would probably make the throttle lever only go about half way ahead. The arm would hit a solid stop when it hits the bolt.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor, showing about the amount the original length bolt usually sticks up above the governor when it is set right.

When you get it running, set the high speed using an automotive test tachometer.
The high speed for a 1965 Cub should be 2000 RPM, the 1965 Cub operator's manual says.
I think it was the same until mid 1975.