Electrolysis Tank Question

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ParlowMillFarm
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Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby ParlowMillFarm » Thu Jul 09, 2020 4:16 pm

What is the right battery charger for my electrolysis tank? I'm trying to restore my cultivator and the "smart" charger is too smart!

Most of the time, like 99%, the charger senses something is not right, puts out an error message and shuts off.

Am I better off with a dumb charger and which one?

Thanks in advance for the suggestions/tips.

John

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bob in CT
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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby bob in CT » Thu Jul 09, 2020 4:22 pm

You want an old school charger. I bought one years ago from Rizk Industries that had no sensors or shutoffs. Made in USA.

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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby bauerei » Thu Jul 09, 2020 4:35 pm

The cheap one from Harbor Freight does not have continuous current sense. You get it started by hooking up an automotive battery and then disconnecting. It’s not really user friendly.

There is also Rizk National Industries. I ordered from them a year ago, was charged, and still haven’t received it. Stay away from them.

I would recommend a DC power source.
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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby tmays » Thu Jul 09, 2020 6:27 pm

Find one that has a manual/automatic switch.
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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby Eugene » Thu Jul 09, 2020 6:36 pm

I have picked up manual type chargers at farm auctions for a couple dollars. If they need repair, it's usually something quite simple.
Bauerei wrote:The cheap one from Harbor Freight does not have continuous current sense. You get it started by hooking up an automotive battery and then disconnecting. It’s not really user friendly.
I have used a 4 amp, 12 volt manual switched battery charger to get my newer, computer smart, battery charger going for the electrolysis tank.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby halftonstude » Sat Jul 11, 2020 4:32 pm

I have used a craftsman 6/12 volt charger, an exide 6 volt 1/5 amp charger, or my welder set on DC.... as a result i've learned that 12 gauge wire can actually conduct 100 amps, but turns blue and melts into the 5 gallon pail... but boy it cleans fast!!! the 1 amp charger i've let sit overnight. the advantage is that as opposed to sand blasting, electrolysis cleans but doesn't deteriorate the part. just leave your garage door open overnight or leave it outside..
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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby k hutchins » Sat Jul 11, 2020 5:04 pm

Watched a video lastnight where a guy used an old phone charger, but it took 24 hrs.
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

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bob in CT
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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby bob in CT » Sat Jul 11, 2020 5:23 pm

The best way to get a lot of productivity out of the tank is to put a LOT of washing soda in water so the electrolyte is very conductive. You just have to watch the ampmeter on the charger to make sure it does not overload it.

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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby halftonstude » Sat Jul 11, 2020 8:23 pm

I used the Tim Allen approach (more power!) but learned that over about 40-50 amps the bubbling is so vigorous that the liquid isn't in as much contact with the part you're trying to clean and it is less efficient. I'd set the welder at 25-30 amps, go mow a section of the lawn and come back to re-adjust the electrodes or part or what have you and always had great results. Took off oil, grease, paint, rust, anything - and didn't eat away the part like a sand blaster would. Either more soda or have the electrodes closer - they both amount to the same thing which is less resistance between the part and the electrodes through the liquid. A small green bean can worked well for bolts and nuts i wanted to save, and 8-10 pieces of rebar around the sides of a 5 gallon bucket worked well for larger parts. I used a concrete mixing tub with 20 pieces of rebar for flywheels or water tanks for old hit and miss engines too... suppose an old wash tub would work well too but would be harder to clean the rust out of when it got dirty.

One great benefit is cleaning of cast iron cookware. blasting with sand would load the pores of the cast iron and prevent cooking properly. i cleaned an 1860's waffle iron that had been painted and hung on a wall and it came out shiny light grey, perfectly clean pores, seasoned it and still use it.

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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby CapeCodCubs » Sat Jul 11, 2020 8:31 pm

Wait, I thought you could trick the new chargers by putting a dead battery battery between the charger and the tank. I had an old auto garage charger and would use 250 amps and lots of tsp and it would cook like no bodies business. I have a new charger now but have yet to try in with the battery trick. Anyone heard of this?
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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby radioguy41 » Sat Jul 11, 2020 11:12 pm

You can pick up those old chargers at flea markets dirt cheap. I see at least one every time I go. I have 3.
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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby ParlowMillFarm » Sun Jul 12, 2020 9:36 am

Thanks for suggestions and observations.

Well I found this.... "Battery Tender 10-Amp 12-Volt Car Battery Charger" it doesn't say "smart" so I wonder...

But sounds like I could put more power to it, if I could find something that did 30+ amps

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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby Eugene » Sun Jul 12, 2020 10:03 am

You don't need 30 amps. 10 amp charger just takes longer to clean the metal.

Stated earlier in this topic, older battery chargers are fairly easy to find and very inexpensive.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby ScottyD'sdad » Sun Jul 12, 2020 10:36 am

A stronger solution, and more electrodes, will clean it fast enough. I find TSP works better thsn washing soda.

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Re: Electrolysis Tank Question

Postby Jim Becker » Sun Jul 12, 2020 11:30 am

Flat electrodes with a lot of surface area work better than rebar or chunks of cast iron. Keeping them cleans helps a lot and a flat piece of steel is easier to clean.


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