carburetor help

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pst
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carburetor help

Postby pst » Sun Jun 28, 2020 1:11 pm

I have a 55 cub and I am sure it needs a carb kit or a rebuild Where is a good place to find a good kit or a rebuilt GOOD carb I king of like to rebuild the original and I can take extra time to do little things to make it nicer
Attachments
carb eng sir no.JPG
carb .JPG
this is the carb where do I look for numbers
Pat
Hagerman
Idaho

Bob McCarty
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Re: carburetor help

Postby Bob McCarty » Sun Jun 28, 2020 2:07 pm

Pat, The part # is on the flat surface of the float bowl on the carb top just above the IH logo on the bottom half. If the Cub has been running well, you may just need to spray down the outside with carb cleaner, etc. If you open it, pull the two halves straight apart or you'll snap off the idle tube. You may just need a body gasket. TM Tractor (forum sponsor at the bottom of the page) and McDonald Carb are the two places I'd recommend for parts. Full kits are seldom needed. There are several "how to's" in that forum that talk about carb disassembly and rebuild.
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staninlowerAL
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Re: carburetor help

Postby staninlowerAL » Sun Jun 28, 2020 3:06 pm

Pat, in case you haven't discovered it Bob is the host of Rocky MT Cubfest in Longmont, Colorado and is considered one of the more knowlegable forum members on the subject of carbs and has provided some good advice. BTW, looking at the pictures you attached, the first one shows the casting code behind the HD lines and the other number is the block part number. The engine SN is on a boss behind the carb and is a hand stamped number. It is not the same as the tractor SN (except on the early production cubs).

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Don McCombs
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Re: carburetor help

Postby Don McCombs » Sun Jun 28, 2020 3:49 pm

What are the symptoms that lead you to believe that the carb needs to be rebuilt or replaced?
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Re: carburetor help

Postby Glen » Sun Jun 28, 2020 5:00 pm

Hi,
If you buy carburetor parts at TM Tractor, at the bottom of the page, they don't say that you need any numbers, their parts are for IH carbs.

It would be good to remove the exhaust system, and clean it up and paint the pipe, before it rusts through.
TM Tractor sells the pipe, they are $149.68, it says.

I have used a small hand held grinder, with a cup wire wheel, it worked good.
Wear your safety goggles when using the grinder and wire wheel.

Then paint it with a spray can of black or silver high temperature paint. :)

If your pipe has become too thin to use the wire wheel on without grinding through, then I guess you will need to leave it like it is.

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Re: carburetor help

Postby pst » Sun Jun 28, 2020 10:05 pm

Don McCombs wrote:What are the symptoms that lead you to believe that the carb needs to be rebuilt or replaced?

Nothing to bad the choke lever dose not work so ya hold the choke from the L side of carb. and it is real picky on throttle setting when you are starting it
I know it needs a good cleaning and just might be a good idea to have some parts on hand
Right now I just hope new points and condenser gets the spark back and I get her running for awhile about half a day and than I can get the cover crop in and get into some tlc on Ms Marple she has a parade to go to in August here in town she wont be pretty but I hope she will be ok
Pat
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Re: carburetor help

Postby pst » Sun Jun 28, 2020 10:30 pm

Bob McCarty wrote:Pat, The part # is on the flat surface of the float bowl on the carb top just above the IH logo on the bottom half. If the Cub has been running well, you may just need to spray down the outside with carb cleaner, etc. If you open it, pull the two halves straight apart or you'll snap off the idle tube. You may just need a body gasket. TM Tractor (forum sponsor at the bottom of the page) and McDonald Carb are the two places I'd recommend for parts. Full kits are seldom needed. There are several "how to's" in that forum that talk about carb disassembly and rebuild.

I think a good cleaning will help and it dose need a new body gasket it seeps a little
If anyone could point to the forms on how to for the carbs I would like to read them before I get to far in
Right now I hope it I get a good hot fire to plugs . I think that is why the carb was touchy on starting the mix had to be just right for it to catch and start but when she warmed up she would fired right up and purred like a kitten she pulled nice and the governor worked ok We pulled the disk fine and I even put a heavy 8 foot I beam behind the disk to help level the ground out and she worked fine ( but need front wheel weights she flooted a lot )
The batt is showing 6.7 some volts
I do have a new wiring harness and battery leads to put on. I just need a day or two to get things done and then I can fiddle and play
Attachments
avatar 4.JPG
avatar 4.JPG (18.66 KiB) Viewed 791 times
Pat
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Re: carburetor help

Postby Gary Dotson » Mon Jun 29, 2020 6:57 am

Carburetors get blamed for everything that can go wrong on a Cub! You probably should clean it up, replace the gasket and fix the choke. Address the ignition system, new points and look all components over good. If 6.7 volts is with engine running well above idle, (you didn't say) it's a little low, should be about 7.2 volts. Low voltage can cause perf. issues.

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Don McCombs
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1948 Farmall Super A
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Re: carburetor help

Postby Don McCombs » Mon Jun 29, 2020 7:29 am

Check out this link...

viewtopic.php?f=139&t=83618

Post any questions that you may have.
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pst
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Re: carburetor help

Postby pst » Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:46 am

Gary Dotson wrote:Carburetors get blamed for everything that can go wrong on a Cub! You probably should clean it up, replace the gasket and fix the choke. Address the ignition system, new points and look all components over good. If 6.7 volts is with engine running well above idle, (you didn't say) it's a little low, should be about 7.2 volts. Low voltage can cause perf. issues.

no that is with the engine off the amp gauge shows charge when she is working so that is ok
I am sure and a good cleaning is in order
I do need to find the carb # and get a kit just to have on hand I try and not have to wait on parts
Pat
Hagerman
Idaho

Bob McCarty
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Re: carburetor help

Postby Bob McCarty » Mon Jun 29, 2020 3:27 pm

The IH carbs had 3 parts that were calibrated together, the main jet, the discharge tube, and the bleed (which is not removable). When you find the part #, it will tell you what size openings those 3 pieces should be. However, you won't find separate kits for the 6 (approx) different carb set ups that IH made for the C-60 engine. If you separate the halves, remove the gasket and put the two halves back together. It's very common for the tops to get warped from over tightening the four body screws. Tops can be flattened with a jig, but that's for another day.
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Re: carburetor help

Postby pst » Mon Jul 06, 2020 6:11 am

Bob McCarty wrote:The IH carbs had 3 parts that were calibrated together, the main jet, the discharge tube, and the bleed (which is not removable). When you find the part #, it will tell you what size openings those 3 pieces should be. However, you won't find separate kits for the 6 (approx) different carb set ups that IH made for the C-60 engine. If you separate the halves, remove the gasket and put the two halves back together. It's very common for the tops to get warped from over tightening the four body screws. Tops can be flattened with a jig, but that's for another day.

I found the part # I think,,,
carb 2 small size.JPG
I got part # 251234 R91 and 1 57
251234R91 and 1 57 I got the diagram of the carb but would like to find the breakdown and rebuild instructions somewhere
Attachments
carb 1.JPG
got it off and cleaned
Pat
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Idaho

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Re: carburetor help

Postby Bob McCarty » Mon Jul 06, 2020 12:00 pm

Pat, I thought there was another "how to" besides the one that Don linked to. Can't find it. If you click on Quick Links, upper left of the page, then PDF Manuals, then Farmall Cub, then on Service Manuals, and then on Fuel, you'll find the Service Manual directions which may or may not help. Post questions as you are working on the carb, you shouldn't have to wait too long for answers. When you check to see if the top is warped, also check to see if the manifold area where the gasket goes is also flat. If not, flatten it with a file until you see file marks from one hole across to the other.
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Glen
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Re: carburetor help

Postby Glen » Mon Jul 06, 2020 6:19 pm

Hi,
Here is some info for the IH carburetor.

The carb can drip on the ground when the Cub is sitting because the needle and seat have dirt in them,
the needle and seat can wear out after years of use, and don't seal anymore,
or the float level could be set wrong.

The float level and the float drop should be set exactly when you have the carburetor apart.
Some of the guys on here have said it was important to set it right, their carbs didn't work right until they set the float level right.

Below is a page from the Cub service manual showing the float level and float drop. The IH carb is in the upper pics. Cubs also used a Zenith carb, it is in the lower pics. If you have the IH carb, use the specs for that.
You have to take the carb apart to set the float level, and drop.

Clean the outside of the carb with solvent and a brush, before taking it apart.
Pull the 2 halves straight apart a few inches, do not twist them apart. There is a small idle tube that screws into the top half, and sticks down into the lower half. The tube can break twisting the halves apart.

Check the top half of the carb for warping where the gasket between the halves goes, the IH carbs can get warped. People on here straighten the top if needed.
I'm not sure if someone on here straightens them if you send it to them, someone might know.

Use carb cleaner to soak the halves of the carb in, if you have that, or carb spray, be sure the inside of the carb is clean, blow out all passages with air, and be sure they are open. Use your safety goggles when using the air.
There is a screen in the gas inlet to the carb, by the threads, it should be cleaned too.

Check the float, like it says in the manual page below, to be sure it is good.
If the float has gas in it, or looks in bad condition, it needs a new float.

Turn the top half upside down, like the Zenith pic on the lower right on the page, and set the level. Then turn the top half right side up, and set the float drop.
The IH carb float level is set without the gasket between the halves in place, the Zenith has the gasket in place for setting the float level. They are different in that way.
Bob McCarty converted the measurements to use a dial caliper, it is easier.
The float level is 1.4", the float drop is 1.6" for the IH carb.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 002-09.jpg

Tighten the screws and gas line gently, the carb is soft metal, and threads can strip out if tightened too much.

Below are pages from the Cub parts manual, showing the IH carb. :)

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-12.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-13.jpg

TM Tractor, at the bottom of the page, has a new float, a new needle and seat, and new gaskets.
Here is their page of IH carb parts, on lines 3, 4, and 5.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/fl_001newparts.htm
Last edited by Glen on Wed Jul 08, 2020 3:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Glen
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Re: carburetor help

Postby Glen » Mon Jul 06, 2020 6:45 pm

Hi,
The IH carburetor has a lever on the engine side of it for the choke rod.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the engine side of the carb, and the lever in place.
The lever usually has to be in about this position, when the choke butterfly valve is fully open, if the choke rod is the original length.
The screw that holds it onto the shaft can come loose, then the lever can turn on the shaft, and the choke valve won't close.
If yours doesn't work, check to see if the screw is tight, and the arm is tight on the shaft.

The 2nd pic shows where the choke rod should be, when the choke is fully open. It is slightly above the Touch Control tubes. If it is too low, and rubbing on the tubes, engine vibration can make it wear into the tubes.
If the rod is too low, bend it more at the bend in the pic, to raise it up. :)
Attachments
Cub carb.jpg
Cub.jpg


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