Bought a new Cub today

[Don McCombs]

Lapping is a procedure to fine tune two metallic mating surfaces to get a better fit. That’s my definition, not the dictionary’s.
It is most commonly used to make the mating surfaces of intake and exhaust valves conform to the valve seat surface, to ensure a tight seal. Same thing you want for the sediment bowl. The technique involves radially rotating the two surfaces together many multiples of times to “wear” the surfaces to a perfect fit. Most times, a slightly abrasive compound is used to speed up the process. To lap the fuel valve, you would remove the bowl from the tank and disassemble the valve, removing the nut and any remaining packing. You may be able to do it with the bowl still attached to the tank. But, it would be easier if removed. At any rate, rotate the handle portion into the seat using a moderate amount of pressure. Then keeping doing that for about 500 times. If you don’t want to buy a container of lapping compound, any tartar control toothpaste will do. It has a fine abrasive in it. This is a good job to do while you’re watching TV. Then reassemble the valve, using new packing material. Reinstall the bowl and check out your work.

[k hutchins]

Thanks again Don
I'm going to leave well enough alone for now, and keep my fingers crossed that the needle will keep it from leaking at the carb.
I have the old original shut off that my dad replaced probably 50 yrs ago on mine. The handle for the shutoff broke so he cut a slot for a screwdriver in the stub. When one side of that broke off he replaced the whole strainer assembly. If l end up changing it out and the "newer" stem fits the old strainer, l'll definitely "lap" them before final installation. Anything to save a buck. ;-)

[Don McCombs]

Just make sure you are dealing with apples and apples when putting new parts into an old assembly. Those mating angles may have changed over the years or from brand to brand.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new needle and seat.
The seat is originally shaped like the seat in the pic.
If your replacement seat is a different shape, thinner material than the originals, that would let the float drop more, because there isn't as much material where the tab on the float hits the side of the seat.

Bend the tab toward the seat to adjust the float drop, if that is the problem.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/5183fp.htm

[k hutchins]

Yeah it works!

Today l finally had some time to drain and replace trans oil. Then do just a few final touches like properly mounting the hood, cleaning up the headlights, and checking out the PTO.
By the way. Is it just me or is everyone else irritated with POs that mount the headlight bezzle with the slot on the screw facing the radiator instead of the outside where you can get at it with a regular screwdriver? Sorry l digress.
Time for a test drive. Started fine, clutch seemed good. Long story short, l only took it down my driveway (1/4 mi), all the gears seemed good, and the PTO appears to be working. Then reversed back into the garage
Before l put it to work l need to change out a front tire, but it appears that we've successfully brought another one back to life.
Thanks to all who had input.
My next and final post on this thread will be to let you know how it does with the Woods 59 on it.

Thanks again everyone
Hutch

[Glen]

By the way. Is it just me or is everyone else irritated with POs that mount the headlight bezzle with the slot on the screw facing the radiator instead of the outside where you can get at it with a regular screwdriver? Sorry l digress.

Hi,
If you are talking about the original style Cub lights, the screw head should face in towards the radiator, on the left light.
The moulding holding the lens in place is a different size at the front and rear, I think they have said on here before. If you turn the moulding backwards, the lens can be loose in the moulding. I think someone on here had the lens fall out.
Check and see if the lens is loose in the moulding.
The lights are all the same, so on the left side, the screw head is facing in.
On the right side, the screw head is facing out.
You can loosen the nut holding the light on the bracket, and turn the light around some, to get to the moulding screw, on the side where the screw is facing in.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor, showing the screw at the bottom of the light.

[k hutchins]

Last post on this thread.
Got the mower deck swapped over today and took it for a short test run. All seems to be operating ok. The "new" '48 doesn't seem to have as much power a my Workhorse. Maybe l should have spent more time cleaning up the governor linkage when l had the hood off. It's just a bit sluggish. Hopefully it will get better with regular use.
Still dealing with a fuel leak. The shutoff isn't shutting it off. New one on order from TM.
Well that's all for this thread.
Thanks to everyone for your input. I'm sure l'll be tapping into the collective knowledge when l start the tear down and rebuild on Workhorse. I can do mechanical things, but l'm not a mechanic. Hopefully l won't be biting off more than l can chew.

Thanks again
Hutch