Well i've played with the headlights, and i can't get a good ground connection through the tear drop light body.. If i go ground to the reflector body i get light. Has anyone encountered this problem, and have a solution? My other question is.. The light should be getting grounded through the light housing, through the spacer, to the hood correct? Well i hope this makes sense, and someone can help. Thanks for your wisdom and knowledge everyone! ..
Soldner
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- Soldner
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Brandon, you are right, you should be getting a ground through the case. It doesn't always happen after things age a little. The key is bright metal to metal contact. You can either take fine sandpaper or emery and create shiny spots for contact or you can take a more permanent solution and run some ground wires. Depending on how involved you want to get with this, and whether you are concerned with appearance or function, there are a few options.
You can drill a couple of small holes and run a ground wire from the case to the reflector.
You could buff a spot on the inside of the case and solder a ground wire there and run it to the reflector. (may require a re-paint)
In any case, the weak spot in the system is the contact between the reflector and the case where it picks up it's ground.
I'd wager that 99% of all mechanical grounds eventually fail and a good electrical (solder) ground connection will last nearly forever.
Try buffing the contact edge (back) of the reflector all the way around the circumference and also buffing the surface where it contacts the case. Paint, rust and corrosion do not conduct electricity very well.
You can drill a couple of small holes and run a ground wire from the case to the reflector.
You could buff a spot on the inside of the case and solder a ground wire there and run it to the reflector. (may require a re-paint)
In any case, the weak spot in the system is the contact between the reflector and the case where it picks up it's ground.
I'd wager that 99% of all mechanical grounds eventually fail and a good electrical (solder) ground connection will last nearly forever.
Try buffing the contact edge (back) of the reflector all the way around the circumference and also buffing the surface where it contacts the case. Paint, rust and corrosion do not conduct electricity very well.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
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If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
- Soldner
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How many cars do you see with one bright head or tail light and the other dull? Also you will see a tail light and when they step on the brake one side will go completely out? these are caused by bad connections too. either poor grounds or corroded connector plugs. It is the modern version of what we have with old tractors. Where you have a connection grease it to keep water and oxygen out. of course not the soldered connection but if you solder a connector and the crinp or use a screw connector you should or use heat shrink tubing to exclude water and oxygen.
Bill
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Does your housing have that little springy/toothy thing on the edge that's supposed to ground the reflector? If so, You can try bending it up, and cleaning it real well.
worked for me
worked for me
Andy Wander
UBE, PA
'52 Farmall Cub "Wile E."
'72 Int'l Cub "Bugs Backhoe"
"Men are from Earth; Women are from Earth. Deal with it!" (attributed to George Carlin)
UBE, PA
'52 Farmall Cub "Wile E."
'72 Int'l Cub "Bugs Backhoe"
"Men are from Earth; Women are from Earth. Deal with it!" (attributed to George Carlin)
- Soldner
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- awander
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The brass piece is suppose to have littl eteeth that can cut thru any oxidation on the reflector. To make new teeth, just use a large needle to poke some hole through the brass.
You can also try putting a small piece of rubber or foam under the brass piece.
Finally, are you sure the housing itself is getting a good ground? I had to clean off my spacer, pivot bolt, etc to get a good connection to the housing.
A coat of WD40 will help keep this metal-to-metal electrical contact in shape. Better is C-R-C 2-26, which is designed for electrical connections.
You can also try putting a small piece of rubber or foam under the brass piece.
Finally, are you sure the housing itself is getting a good ground? I had to clean off my spacer, pivot bolt, etc to get a good connection to the housing.
A coat of WD40 will help keep this metal-to-metal electrical contact in shape. Better is C-R-C 2-26, which is designed for electrical connections.
Andy Wander
UBE, PA
'52 Farmall Cub "Wile E."
'72 Int'l Cub "Bugs Backhoe"
"Men are from Earth; Women are from Earth. Deal with it!" (attributed to George Carlin)
UBE, PA
'52 Farmall Cub "Wile E."
'72 Int'l Cub "Bugs Backhoe"
"Men are from Earth; Women are from Earth. Deal with it!" (attributed to George Carlin)
- Soldner
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